Dana 35?


1RangerNut

1RangerNut

15+ Year Member

Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Dec 8, 2009
Messages
172
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3,101
City
Central,IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
How strong are they with like TSL's, Boggers, or Thornbirds?

What the biggest size tires that they can handle "safely" with the stronger u-joints, full C clip, window opened up, and inner shaft clearanced?

Cuz I'm looking at getting a 92 supercab 4.0L with 37" Boggers and I wanna wheel it fairly decent and it will also be my daily driver.

Thanks: Steve
 
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I would say 37s is no problem on the D35 if it was a BII or a std-cab Ranger... The Supercab trucks are pretty heavy though.

We had a couple guys wheeling them with 38s on their trucks and not breaking a whole lot, but I would feel more comfortable with 35s on it.
 
Did though guys running 38's have locked front diffs or open?

Cuz I'm thinking about welding the front if I get it.
 
One had a Detroit Locker, not sure the other (he started with it welded and broke several shafts, but later swapped the welded carrier out for what I don't remember, and did better as far as it not breaking after that).

I strongly advise you don't weld it, not just for the stresses it puts on it, but you won't be able to steer much while in 4WD either. Get an Aussie Locker for it.
 
Wouldn't an Aussie not turn just like if it was welded?

I thought they locked under load so wouldn't it just be like a welded diff when on the gas and turning?

Ya I was kind of thinking they were a little big. I'll probably just sell them and get a set of 35's since I wanna take the body lift off anyways.
 
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The thtin you don't know is whether they broke it because it was weak, or whether they broke it because it was bound up. No D35 axle yokes come with enough clearance to just run them. You have to grind the shit out of them to make sure they don't bind. The yoke itself is much stronger than the joint--unless it binds. Whatever the joint can take, which is alot, the yoke can easily handle. I've run 35" Hawgs on mine and not worried about it. I've broken mine with 31s when I didn't consider grinding the yokes.

I think you could run 37s, but make sure you have ground the shit out of the yokes so they don't bind. Ford didn't think about 20" of articulation when they built it. No, it won't last with those tires if you don't do a lot of work on the yokes.

And those parts aren't made anymore. When you bust it--it's gone.

Your next upgrade is a Dana 60. Your choices are to grind the yokes or go to a Dana 60.
 
And no, an Aussie locker isn't the same as welding the carrier. An Aussie Locker is the same concept as a Lock-Right--the outside tire unlocks itself if it is going faster (ground pulled) than the inside tire.
 
Yeah I'm probably gonna get smaller ones to be on the "safer" side plus I don't think the truck's gonna like 37's and 3:55 gears.

Yeah I was gonna do all the beef up stuff that's in the tech section to help it out.

Also I'll probably just lock the rear and leave the front open for awhile.
 
I love how there is no mention of wheel bearings. All that height means more lateral forces.
Unless you built it to flex, there's not need to grind anything, I didn't and I have not snapped a shaft, but bearings, I've replaced 3 times because of the forces applied when turning.
 
It just has a 6" Skyjacker class 2 so however much the kit flexes is what's it gonna flex.
 
I run 36" TSL SX's on my D35 with upgraded joints welded to the shafts (was spinning caps with the full clips) I'm running an Aussie up front, for the most part it is no issue, but if you get a tire bound up or really need to get a good shot at something shit will start coming apart. I am not running the upgraded Warn hubs, just the standard Warn's. I keep breaking hubs, but that is fine, they are easy to change. I would rather have a hub let go than a shaft.

I am currently upgrading to a D60 front and Sterling 10.25 rear to fix this issue.
 
Do you drive the truck on the street if so how are the ball joints & bearings holding up?
 
just wear the 37's out....if you bust too much shit get 35's when new tire time comes.


for road driving...hard city hiway driving....any heavy 35 tire is going to destroy the bullshit setup these have stock. overheating the brakes warps the integral hub setup and causes some issues. from the lugs looseing in the hub to short bearing life.... a ttb d44 knuckle or spindle brake mod swap eliminates that issue though...but you need 5x5.5 wheels to do that as well.


with increased maintenance you can usually stay ahead of the situation with the normal d35 setup. but its dangerous if your not.
 
Yeah I might give them a try I just don't wanna break something every time I go out wheeling.
 
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