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94prerunner
02-14-2008, 12:11 AM
what is the easiest axle to do a sas with. the truck is a dd and will not have over 33's on it

Sunk
02-14-2008, 12:29 AM
A D30 may work if you don't go crazy, but common swaps are from D44s Early Broncos, or FSB's with one side shortened. Also I think D44's from a Wagoneer will work.

Try searching the Extreme Suspensions forum.

94prerunner
02-14-2008, 12:48 AM
i was thinking 4 linking it. but im not sure how much work it will be to put a dana 30 under it i want to keep the bolt pattern i have so it will be cheaper

Sunk
02-14-2008, 01:00 AM
A D30 has the same bolt pattern, or you could get the shafts re-drilled or use adapters.

Maverick
02-14-2008, 02:42 AM
what is the easiest axle to do a sas with. the truck is a dd and will not have over 33's on it

Then what is the point of a SAS?

Sunk
02-14-2008, 02:44 AM
Then what is the point of a SAS?

Aha good point. Maybe "the TTB doesn't flew worth crap."

jrmustranger97
02-14-2008, 08:43 AM
Then what is the point of a SAS?

I'm guessing by his screen name that his truck is 2wd. Hence the necessity of the SAS.

But then again I'm just assuming.

94prerunner
02-14-2008, 09:46 AM
what is the easiest axle to do a sas with. the truck is a dd and will not have over 33's on it

Then what is the point of a SAS?

maybe just maybe the front ttb is bent or even broken and i want to up grade incase i bo go with 35 did you think of that?

i was thinking of getting the axles from a Rubicon d44 with 4.10 and lockers but i just wanted to see what every one else thought.


I'm guessing by his screen name that his truck is 2wd. Hence the necessity of the SAS.

But then again I'm just assuming.

no the truck is 4x4 the only 2wd truck i have is a 66 ford f-100 with a big block

JFA_Spyderman
02-14-2008, 12:01 PM
It might help all of us if you describe how you use your truck. Judging by your username, I would say you do a fair amount of higher speed 4x4ing. If thats true, then I would say stick with the TTB and beef it up a bit. If you do more slower trail crawling and such, then a solid axle might meet your needs.

As for which solid axle, well if its not going to see larger than 33's, I would say that an high pinion D30 out of an XJ should work fine, otherwise a D44 out of an early bronco is the next easiest swap.

Good luck!

jrmustranger97
02-14-2008, 12:30 PM
no the truck is 4x4 the only 2wd truck i have is a 66 ford f-100 with a big block

Whoops. Bad Assumption on my part.

Maverick
02-14-2008, 01:22 PM
maybe just maybe the front ttb is bent or even broken and i want to up grade incase i bo go with 35 did you think of that?



Well in that case replace whatever is bent or broken and your truck is fixed. Since it's a DD thats not going to be running anything bigger than 33's I highly doubt you're going to have ANYMORE troubles with it. Or maybe, just maybe you're looking for an excuse to put a straight axle it.

94prerunner
02-14-2008, 05:47 PM
if you bend it once you might just do it again that is part of it and the other part is i wheel it often and the ttb gust does not work the way i want it to a lot of bump steer dont flex all that great and i could go on. and maybe, just maybe i am just looking for an excuse to put a straight axle under it either way it is my truck and i do what i want.

a do more slow trail riding and a little mud bogging now and then and the occasional hey lets see where this trail at the end of this road goes

94prerunner
02-14-2008, 05:49 PM
and you never know if i get a good deal on a set of 35's they might gust end up under it

94prerunner
02-14-2008, 05:54 PM
As for which solid axle, well if its not going to see larger than 33's, I would say that an high pinion D30 out of an XJ should work fine, otherwise a D44 out of an early bronco is the next easiest swap.

Good luck!

thanks that is the kind or response i was looking for

wahlstrom1
02-14-2008, 06:07 PM
For the price's Ive seen lately I'd grab a Rubi D44 and do a custom radius arm setup. If I hadn't planned on running 35"+ size tires I'd have done that and it probably would have been cheaper than the Early Bronco D44 setup I'm doing.

-andrew

94prerunner
02-16-2008, 12:21 AM
bump

c_note
02-16-2008, 02:09 AM
For the price's Ive seen lately I'd grab a Rubi D44 and do a custom radius arm setup.

-andrew

ya... i just went to a salvage yard and they wanted $1,750 for a dana 44 out of a rubicon. to me, thats alot of money. for that price you can do an entire sas using a dana 30 out of an xj and still have money for gas.

id say do the xj dana 30. get some long(y link) arms, get a mid 80 toyota steering box(maybe necessary only on the ifs ranger) and use the same coil mounts that are on the axle. theres more to it but those are the main concerns to think before you get everything pieced together. just take your time in picking the right parts(coil springs, trackbar w/correct length) . if craigslist has taken off in you local area, just buy stuff there.

94prerunner
02-16-2008, 05:10 PM
this is the what i was thinking of doing it http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2209152

JurassicWarrior
02-16-2008, 08:34 PM
y dont u jut lok for a vehicle on ebay

94prerunner
02-16-2008, 08:46 PM
why would i get a new car when i can fix the one i have?

JurassicWarrior
02-16-2008, 08:47 PM
dont do it

mhughes165
02-16-2008, 10:51 PM
thanks that is the kind or response i was looking for

if u ever plan on MAYBE gettin 35's under the truck then u definatly want togo with atleast the TTB d35 or a SA D44, the d30 from the jeeps breaks with stock tires all the time, anything bigger and ur asking for trouble, also the truck weighs mroe then a jeep so more stress on the axle.....just a swap that makes absolutly no sense to me

94prerunner
02-17-2008, 02:45 PM
i have the ttb d35. i had a cherokee on 32 with with the d30 and never broke it or had a problem with it and if i put a d30 under it if i want to i could swap a rubi d44 under it when i find one.

c_note
02-18-2008, 04:11 PM
i have the ttb d35. i had a cherokee on 32 with with the d30 and never broke it or had a problem with it and if i put a d30 under it if i want to i could swap a rubi d44 under it when i find one.

+1, ill have the setup all ready so if i find the d30 to be too weak, just slap the rubi in in a matter of a couple of hours.

94prerunner
02-18-2008, 10:42 PM
let me know if you do find it to be too weak

JFA_Spyderman
02-19-2008, 12:39 AM
One major problem with the D30 is that a ranger is much heavier than a jeep, the added weight causes many of the problems associated with their bad rep. Good luck! Let us know what you find.

94prerunner
02-19-2008, 09:53 AM
if you take a way the weight i lost when i put the fiberglass on it is probably about the same weight

94prerunner
02-22-2008, 05:12 PM
hoping to have most of the parts soon every thing but the axle any ways. im looking for one that the guy dont want $400 all the other ones are like $150 but by time i find them they are gone

mhughes165
02-22-2008, 05:49 PM
i have the ttb d35. i had a cherokee on 32 with with the d30 and never broke it or had a problem with it and if i put a d30 under it if i want to i could swap a rubi d44 under it when i find one.

are u having problems wiht the TTB d35?? ive never actually broken a axle with the d35 runnign tires up to 35's with no issues. but it might just be me, i dont lock the front axle so that could be a issue in play, i just think swapping in a d30 inplace of a ttb d35 is a gian downgrade, just my thoughts take it for what its worth

ForOffRoadDriving
02-22-2008, 06:39 PM
i dont mean to thread jack but i just realized youre from fenton, me too! where abouts? if you need help with this project i would be glad to help.

94prerunner
02-23-2008, 01:40 PM
are u having problems wiht the TTB d35?? ive never actually broken a axle with the d35 runnign tires up to 35's with no issues. but it might just be me, i dont lock the front axle so that could be a issue in play, i just think swapping in a d30 inplace of a ttb d35 is a gian downgrade, just my thoughts take it for what its worth

i keep going through hubs like no tomorrow and my plan is to fun the d 30 till i can afford a d44 from a Rubicon

94prerunner
02-23-2008, 01:41 PM
i dont mean to thread jack but i just realized youre from fenton, me too! where abouts? if you need help with this project i would be glad to help.

i live on jennings bout .5 miles from off road unlimited

ForOffRoadDriving
02-23-2008, 01:49 PM
jennings isnt too far. im off white lake and 23. pm me if you want a hand:icon_thumby:

94prerunner
02-23-2008, 02:42 PM
im good i have my dad and a buddy that is helping

4x4junkie
02-23-2008, 11:00 PM
i keep going through hubs like no tomorrow and my plan is to fun the d 30 till i can afford a d44 from a Rubicon

Why not just put the better hubs on it??... :icon_confused:

94prerunner
02-23-2008, 11:18 PM
why put money in to some thing I'm unhappy with?? :icon_confused:

AKBroncoII
02-23-2008, 11:56 PM
Hubs or unitbearings? I think I'd choose hubs. if you are unhappy with the hubs, you won't be happy with replacing 120$ unitbearings yearly.

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 12:17 AM
im talking bout replacing 2 bearings a $30 a pop every month to two months it sux.these are the instructions i follow. install the inner nut (the one with the guide pin). These nuts require a four-prong spanner type spindle nut wrench. Tighten the nut to 35 lbs-ft while rotating the hub to seat the bearing. Back the nut off 90 degrees (about 1/4-turn) Install the lockwasher. The slotted part engages in the spindle and the guide pin should engage in one of the holes. If not, try flipping it over. If still a no-go, you may slightly tighten the nut enough until the pin engages a hole. Install the outer locknut and torque it to 150 lbs-ft.

Hahnsb2
02-24-2008, 01:13 AM
im talking bout replacing 4 bearings a $30 a pop every month to two months it sux.these are the instructions i follow. install the inner nut (the one with the guide pin). These nuts require a four-prong spanner type spindle nut wrench. Tighten the nut to 35 lbs-ft while rotating the hub to seat the bearing. Back the nut off 90 degrees (about 1/4-turn) Install the lockwasher. The slotted part engages in the spindle and the guide pin should engage in one of the holes. If not, try flipping it over. If still a no-go, you may slightly tighten the nut enough until the pin engages a hole. Install the outer locknut and torque it to 150 lbs-ft.
You're doing something wrong then... The inner nut should be hand tight (like 16 in-lbs is spec i think) and the outer nut should be over 200ft-lbs so it doesn't back off.

Sunk
02-24-2008, 02:41 AM
Yeah just like Hans said, the factory 150 ft/lbs spec isn't enough. I think most guys recommend 200 or 250 ftlbs to keep them tight. I think most TTBs that I have worked have had the outer lock nuts back out on them.

blackbronc
02-24-2008, 06:08 AM
Don't back off a quarter turn. Zero them and back off to the nearest pin. Set the locknut and check for drag. If it's too tight back off one more pin. Timken bearings will eat themselves alive when either too tight or too loose.

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 12:30 PM
that is the specs that came with the warn lock out kit

AKBroncoII
02-24-2008, 01:28 PM
that is the specs that came with the warn lock out kit

The specs for the warn kit are wrong.

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 02:30 PM
so i guess if i call them and say hey your specs for the kit that you had engineers design is wrong i want my money back they should give it back then

wahlstrom1
02-24-2008, 02:36 PM
No need to be cocky....The specs Warn has will work on a street driven truck on stock size tires, but when you start beating on things offroad and adding tires 2-3"s taller than intended you just have to compensate for it.

-andrew

AKBroncoII
02-24-2008, 02:36 PM
Sure, if you want to. I doubt they will give you your money back though. Maybe you should just not tighten the inner nut so much and tighten the outter nut more, then you won't have any more problems. :icon_idea:

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 05:51 PM
that thing about that is i dont beat my truck i have a jeep for that. and i have tightned them to ford specs and still the same thing

AKBroncoII
02-24-2008, 07:24 PM
that thing about that is i dont beat my truck i have a jeep for that. and i have tightned them to ford specs and still the same thing


Are you running larger than stock tires? If so, you are beating on your truck. By tightening the outter locknut more, much tighter than the specs. It will no longer loosen up and eat your wheelbearings. 36ft lbs is very tight for the inner nut, did you mean in/lbs. There is a huge difference.

4x4junkie
02-24-2008, 07:39 PM
Maybe the unit bearings would be better for you then, they come all pre-assembled & pre-greased so people don't screw them up.


I've got 9000+ miles & 3 years on my D35's wheel bearings with 35x12.50 tires (15x8 rims) and not once have I done as much as take the hubs off to even LOOK at them. These same bearings were in use with 32x11.50s, then 33x12.50s for another 10,000 miles prior to this as well.

The method I use when setting them up (with one exception) is EXACTLY the method Ford prescribes (which apparently is NOT what Warn says, unless you just left out the part about retightening the nut to 15 INCH-lbs).
The only one thing I do different is put 250ft-lbs on the OUTER locknut.


Edit:
What kind of grease are you using? I sure hope it's not something with Moly in it...

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 09:36 PM
Maybe the unit bearings would be better for you then, they come all pre-assembled & pre-greased so people don't screw them up.


I've got 9000+ miles & 3 years on my D35's wheel bearings with 35x12.50 tires (15x8 rims) and not once have I done as much as take the hubs off to even LOOK at them. These same bearings were in use with 32x11.50s, then 33x12.50s for another 10,000 miles prior to this as well.

The method I use when setting them up (with one exception) is EXACTLY the method Ford prescribes (which apparently is NOT what Warn says, unless you just left out the part about retightening the nut to 15 INCH-lbs).
The only one thing I do different is put 250ft-lbs on the OUTER locknut.


Edit:
What kind of grease are you using? I sure hope it's not something with Moly in it...
well douche bag sees how it is only one side that is eating them up i dont think it is the grease im using or the way im installing them other wise it would be both sides dont you think

DeanMoriarty
02-24-2008, 11:02 PM
Was that duck bag or douche bag?
I'm surprised that no one's beaten you to death with a grammar book.

Hahnsb2
02-24-2008, 11:15 PM
well duch bag sees how it is only one side that is eating them up i dont think it is the grease im using or the way im installing them other wise it would be both sides dont you think
Awesome, attack the people trying to help you :buttkick:
Maybe if you would further explain the problem, preferably in a readable context, you'd get the answers you were after...

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 11:55 PM
i don't care about the pos d35 under the truck this thread i about doing a sas to my truck not why i want to do an sas or the problems im having with the hubs on my d35

94prerunner
02-24-2008, 11:57 PM
Was that duck bag or douche bag?
I'm surprised that no one's beaten you to death with a grammar book.

my teachers have tried trust me.

Hahnsb2
02-25-2008, 12:22 AM
i don't care about the pos d35 under the truck this thread i about doing a sas to my truck not why i want to do an sas or the problems im having with the hubs on my d35
Fine, put in a WEAKER D30 and use unit bearings that cost a shit ton to replace.

94prerunner
02-25-2008, 12:34 AM
Fine, put in a WEAKER D30 and use unit bearings that cost a shit ton to replace.

thats why i have 2 of them left that i got with my Cherokee when i bought it. thanks for the impute but i can see your as dumb as a box of rocks so i will just ignore you. if you would read the post I'm putting the dana 30 in till i can get a d44 from a Rubicon. :bye:

Hahnsb2
02-25-2008, 12:58 AM
thats why i have 2 of them left that i got with my Cherokee when i bought it. thanks for the impute but i can see your as dumb as a box of rocks so i will just ignore you. if you would read the post I'm putting the dana 30 in till i can get a d44 from a Rubicon. :bye:
The irony of someone calling me dumb as a box of rocks in a post that contains spelling and grammar errors surpassing double digits :icon_rofl:

There is nothing wrong with your D35! YOU are what's wrong with it. Install and set up the bearings correctly and you'll never have a problem with it!

AKBroncoII
02-25-2008, 02:37 AM
This is the funniest thread I've seen in a while. If you can't properly torque the wheelbearings on a dana 35 I'm not sure you have the smarts to do an axle swap. You may want to just go buy a jeep. :pray:

F150hybred
02-25-2008, 09:23 AM
OK... so a Dana 30 has weak unit bearings... BIG DEAL! If this guy wants to do a Dana 30 swap and has it in his mind to do it, why not give him the information needed to do it properly and safe.
Dude, If you are gonna do a Dana 30 swap, the unit bearings will last some time.... unless you are running too large a tire. If you want to run larger tires, there is a company that make some real nice stuff that should last a life time.
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=17&idproduct=83

For what it's worth, I like the way you are thinking out side the box. Keep it up and do post some pics when your done. I wanna see them.. and I'm sure others do too!

94prerunner
02-25-2008, 09:47 AM
OK... so a Dana 30 has weak unit bearings... BIG DEAL! If this guy wants to do a Dana 30 swap and has it in his mind to do it, why not give him the information needed to do it properly and safe.
Dude, If you are gonna do a Dana 30 swap, the unit bearings will last some time.... unless you are running too large a tire. If you want to run larger tires, there is a company that make some real nice stuff that should last a life time.
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=17&idproduct=83

For what it's worth, I like the way you are thinking out side the box. Keep it up and do post some pics when your done. I wanna see them.. and I'm sure others do too!

thanks for the info as soon as i get it started i will start posting some pics

94prerunner
02-25-2008, 10:00 AM
This is the funniest thread I've seen in a while. If you can't properly torque the wheelbearings on a dana 35 I'm not sure you have the smarts to do an axle swap. You may want to just go buy a jeep. :pray:

i can thats why it is only one side that is messed up at one point it was a bent bearing replaced that and then it went out again the spindal was bent so i got a new one then found out the rotor was bent and replaced that and now it went out again. so i'm done with it. i have more fab skills than you think. i have made bumpers hitches welded spiders on a jeep with 44 that gets beat and the welds haven't broke or cracked. i wade the tire gate that is on my truck. gust to let you know i'm the top kid in my welding class i can do every thing from a vertical up with an stick welder to tig aluminum and stainless steal. what you got on that? :thefinger:

JohnnyU
02-25-2008, 12:17 PM
what you got on that? :thefinger:

Spelling.

hitech_hick
02-25-2008, 01:22 PM
You know, this is a long ass post for not having any actual tech, just a lot of talking smack. Getting back to your original question, what year Rubicon are you looking in to TJ? JK? TJ Rubicon front axles are LP D44 centers with dana 30 outers/bearings, not much of a improvement over a HP D30. As for a JK Rubicon axle, that is a bit of an upgrade over a HP D30, but it'll cost you JK Axle Assembly (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=354&partID=15586), not to mention that you will need to change you bolt pattern to 5 on 5...



hick

F150hybred
02-25-2008, 02:08 PM
As with any swap, some things arent gonna line up and it's up to you, as the person doing the mods to figure it out. I'm in the process of figuring some of those things out myself doing a Dana 30hp swap. Yeah, I know.. everyone is sitting there saying, why a Dana 30. Well, It's my freaking choice and it fits my criteria set by myself and will meet all my expectations. If I was building a mud bogger, I wouldn't have chosen a Dana 30.... but I'm not building a bogger.
Point here is, you as a builder have to sit down and think about what you are going to want to do with it when it's done. After, you research the "problem" areas and look to see if there is an upgrade that will fit your needs and budget. There is no sense in re-designing the wheel, it's been done many time before.
The Dana30 axle has been around for some time now and if you open your eyes and look, there are quite a few people doing some serious wheeling with them... and these same people are getting quality results.
Thats not to say that if you beat on it that it won't break... Everything has a limit. The people who are breaking these axles are either well beond the capabilities of the differential or need to learn some self control.... you know, that same self control your wife/girlfriend talks about after your done and she's barely warmed up!

94prerunner
02-25-2008, 03:53 PM
You know, this is a long ass post for not having any actual tech, just a lot of talking smack. Getting back to your original question, what year Rubicon are you looking in to TJ? JK? TJ Rubicon front axles are LP D44 centers with dana 30 outers/bearings, not much of a improvement over a HP D30. As for a JK Rubicon axle, that is a bit of an upgrade over a HP D30, but it'll cost you JK Axle Assembly (http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=354&partID=15586), not to mention that you will need to change you bolt pattern to 5 on 5...



hick
thank you finally some thing that is help full

94prerunner
02-25-2008, 03:55 PM
As with any swap, some things arent gonna line up and it's up to you, as the person doing the mods to figure it out. I'm in the process of figuring some of those things out myself doing a Dana 30hp swap. Yeah, I know.. everyone is sitting there saying, why a Dana 30. Well, It's my freaking choice and it fits my criteria set by myself and will meet all my expectations. If I was building a mud bogger, I wouldn't have chosen a Dana 30.... but I'm not building a bogger.
Point here is, you as a builder have to sit down and think about what you are going to want to do with it when it's done. After, you research the "problem" areas and look to see if there is an upgrade that will fit your needs and budget. There is no sense in re-designing the wheel, it's been done many time before.
The Dana30 axle has been around for some time now and if you open your eyes and look, there are quite a few people doing some serious wheeling with them... and these same people are getting quality results.
Thats not to say that if you beat on it that it won't break... Everything has a limit. The people who are breaking these axles are either well beond the capabilities of the differential or need to learn some self control.... you know, that same self control your wife/girlfriend talks about after your done and she's barely warmed up!
thanks that is why have decided to go with the d30 i have had a lot of experience with them and can get all the little bugs worked out as i go with the rest of it.

josh-the-ranger
02-25-2008, 06:03 PM
94prerunner is a immature little boy.

94prerunner
02-25-2008, 06:52 PM
94prerunner is a immature little boy.

:tease: :thefinger:

JohnnyU
02-25-2008, 07:51 PM
Done.

If you have a tech-based question or want to create a build-follow thread do so, otherwise I'm cutting the chit-chat.