I fought all day and lost . . .


PetesPonies

15+ Year Member

Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
1,168
Points
3,101
City
east coast
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Manual
trying to line up a dummy bare block with trans. I drilled a hole/slot in the crossmember on the passenger side only. I'm trying to line up the trans and then mark where the drivers side hole /slot should be placed. I cannot get the trans mated with the block. I can't hold the block up the slot on the passenger side to get the engine close to bolting on to the trans. Its a bastard, a hard one man job . . F %*K !!!!
 
Do you have the block bolted to the trans?
I put trans and motor in together minus the heads and let my trans mount locate my engine that way I had 0 drive shaft issues when I hung the T-Case.
It was a little tight with motor mount studs at the back of the cross member but it worked.I let the studs on the mount leave marks on the X member and torched them out with a little room to move.
 
Trans is in vehicle. I was trying to get the bare block lined up and bolted to the trans.
 
If you have four long old style small block head bolts, cut the heads off, smooth and chamfer the cut ends and use these as guide pins screwed into the bell housing bolt holes in the block.(two per side) Gauranteed one man engine/transmission installs and alignments. I made several sets a few years ago after my son left home for the Marines. I've done two engine installs alone and combined they took less time than a single install did beforehand. Also useful in aligning a manual transmission to the bell housing. Also helps to cut a slot in the cut end incase the stud is hard to remove afterwards, use a big flat head screw driver in the slot to unscrew it.
 
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I've used studs before. I have done so many engine installs over the years, I'm not without ideas. Just having problems with this one since the engine doesn't belong there :) Drilling holes in the crossmember is tuff . trying to figure out exactly where they go.
 
Bolt the block up to the transmission before trying to figure where the motor mount slots need to be. This will be better accomplished by having the heads and intake on as well, then use a carpenter's level on the carb pad, (unless you're uisng a Vic Jr) to ge the carb pad level side to side and front to back. Center the motor between the fenders, do not use the frame as a reference, the frame isn't centered under the body. Once you have the motor positioned, aim the transmission tailshaft towards the rearend pinion.
 
First, remember? I used a dummy block, no heads or intake. Much easier to move around. I would suggest it to everyone. I bolted it to the trans with no mounts on it, then installed them and further estimated where the holes needed to be cut. I then was able to sit the block with mounts into the holes. Step one in the books. Then I removed it again and went and got the "real" engine off the stand. I put on the engine plate and flywheel and put her in the engine bay. No luck in getting it to go where the bare block just had been ( torque converter and flywheel are now present ). So I punted and loosed the trans mount and slide the trans back as far as I could. I had nothing else disconnected ( shifter/drive shafts ) but was able to get about 1 1/2" reward. Then a little wrestling with the engine and I got it to drop in the holes I cut, albeit a looked cocked to the side. But hey . it was in the holes!! I managed some careful adjusting without letting the mount studs out of the holes and I got it in level side to side. I put on the nuts and called it an evening. Step two down. Next I'll have to attach the trans, that will be step three. Building an exhaust will be step four and figuring out the cooling will be step four . .at least I'm on the way now. I have some parts I'll be selling and probably useful to some people. Check out the classified.
 
If I'm following what you've said correctly, you have the engine with flexplate and torque converter installed in the truck, but not connected to the transmission?
 
TC is in the trans, yes. Flexplate is on the engine , yes. But I haven't slid the trans back to its original position yet and bolted it up, yes.
 
:dunno: Ok, do it the hard way.:icon_rofl: My way is a hell of a lot easier.:D
 
I do not believe "your" way is easier. Moving a bare block around, in and out as you decide on the proper location is much easier to do than work with a fully loaded engine. I understand many of you may not have extra blocks around, but if you do have access toone, its the way to go. The trans was not moved at all at first, working with the bare block. That way I can get the engine sitting in the exact place it needs to be. Then once holes are cut, you can move the trans for easier installation of the completed engine. I didn't have to remove any drive shafts, cable or linkage, just slid the trans back. How hard is that?
 
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It's you thread title and first post that leads us to this conclusion.
 
well Teddy . . like other posts . . what the hell are you talking about?? I can't vent and be realistic? I mean just because I'm a pro, doesn't mean I don't have bad days :headbang: I also appreciate experience. Nothing beats experience. I talk auto for over 20 years. I've had my Mustang business for close to 30 now . BUT I haven't done it all:icon_twisted: So . was just looking for a vent and possibly a few mentions that might spark a thought or two. I did, however, expect people to read the posts carefully and not assume anything. I'm every literal in what I convey.
 
PetesPonies said:
I do not believe "your" way is easier. Moving a bare block around, in and out as you decide on the proper location is much easier to do than work with a fully loaded engine. I understand many of you may not have extra blocks around, but if you do have access toone, its the way to go. The trans was not moved at all at first, working with the bare block. That way I can get the engine sitting in the exact place it needs to be. Then once holes are cut, you can move the trans for easier installation of the completed engine. I didn't have to remove any drive shafts, cable or linkage, just slid the trans back. How hard is that?
Click to expand...

There are so many variables for fitment that a bare block would have been worthless for my install. The heads are the closest thing to the firewall, I bet I coulda stuffed it back in there a couple more inches without knowing exactly where it could/should be. Actually for some reason I had a problem getting it back far enough with the commonly recommended Mustang mounts and had to get another mount (I think it was the Mustangs DS) I could have easly been off that inch and had the head in the firewall when it was all said and done if I wasn't playing with a complete engine.

I have two bare blocks ('67 289 and '78 302), but even as a rookie I could see how little good they would do me. There isn't enough of the big picture there.
 
.


Actually, I think my way is the easiest, quickest, and least amount of labor ...

The engine (complete with FEAD) and transmission are bolted together on my roll around cart

Motor mounts are bolted to the engine

Both are dropped in place and motor mount location is determined and marked

Engine is raised a couple inches and motor mounts are removed

Plasma cutter is used to slice the motor mount slots

Motor is dropped right back into place


It doesn't get any easier than that :icon_thumby:



One thing different about yours though is that for some reason the transmission was already in place and hooked up. I've never started on one with a SBF pattern transmission already in place, nor have I ever began a swap by installing a transmission so it would work with the current driveshaft as a locator.


.
 
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