Stonecrusher type steering

The_Dealer · May 3, 2011

Well I emailed anthony and he said the rbv steering has stopped temporarily due to some differences. So I want to make a steering set up. I know how to make the linkage but have a few questions.

What size tubing should I use?
What size heims should I use?
How should I attatch the heims to the pitman arm and knuckles? Just drill out the arm and knuckles to accept a bolt? How much do I need to drill them out?

I figured u uys could help me out... Thanks Guys!

59bisquik · May 3, 2011

I know mine is SAS and maybe even overkilled a bit. But my steering is 1 1/2" .250 wall DOM tubing with 7/8" hiems and 3/4" grade 8 hardware. When converting over from tie rod ends to hiems, I just drilled out the tapered knuckles and pitman arm.

Bray D · May 3, 2011

I'm using 1.5x.250wt DOM for my SAS steering as well.

The_Dealer · May 3, 2011

Sweet thanks guyts, that's what I needed to know. Was unsure if I needed .250 wall or not. Btw shane I loved seeing your rig on the ua. Hopefully ill get the dvd for fathers day. Well looks like I need some stuff and ill be able to start fabbing

97fordrunner · May 3, 2011

Probably stopped cause I brought some issues up to him. Check my Build thread or my post in the steering section of this forum. I got a set up from him a few weeks back on am having problems with the bolt for my drivers side link and saddle catching on the Drivers side axle pivot bracket. When you turn the one side or the other the links are so long that they push towards the axle. Here is a pic of my problem.

Other than that this thing is vary stout and you won't be sorry. The tube is 1 1/2 .25 wall and the thread size is 3/4 with 3/4 heims. Don't forget that you need right and left hand threaded taps and heims.

59bisquik · May 3, 2011

Don't forget that you need right and left hand threaded taps and heims.

Go with the weld in bungs instead of getting right and left handed taps. First, the left handed models can get very expensive and secondly, 3/4 or 7/8 heims are too small to thread into the 1 1/2" .250 wall tubing.

Head over to Ballistic fab and look at thier 7/8" steering kit. While its an SAS kit and will be different than what you need, it will give you an idea of what all you need. Weld in bungs, misalignment spacers, jamb nuts etc.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-78-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1337.html

Here is a link to a some KOH TTB builds and steering...
http://www.bustedknucklefilms.com/forum/showthread.php?676-TTB-Jeep-Race-Build

Long Travel Chevy Avalanche with Ford TTB and some great steering pics!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=796593&page=3

wahlstrom1 · May 3, 2011

You can use 1.25" x .250 wall and thread it for 7/8", I did that for my steering and while it never bent I could flex the tubing fairly good so going larger diameter will definitely help that.

RacinNdrummin · May 4, 2011

Im curious why this setup doesnt use TRE's?? If I was to build a setup like this, it would definately have TRE's... More reliable and easier to implement.

wahlstrom1 · May 4, 2011

Cost it my guess, but there's reason you couldn't.

The_Dealer · May 4, 2011

Yea I would def use the weld in bungs. One question. How do u align it? Will u have to take the bolt out of the knuckle for changes?

59bisquik · May 4, 2011

If you bend them at all like the long travel ones, you would have to take a bolt out to align it. But, if you go with straight tubes, as long as you have right and left threads, you just twist the tube like normal.

The_Dealer · May 4, 2011

97ranger that looks like the axles are pushedtoo far back.. Might be a radius arm problem if u made your own ext ones. The mounting points will put the linkage at the same position wheter it be stock or not. The bolt will reduce some cleance a tad, but it seems as if the axles are too far back. Which will make the knuckles farther back and the linkage closer to the pivots. Just a guess, sometimes pics are decieving. I found some tie rod adjusters from poly p that I could put on the pass side to align it( the cradle is welded onto it so the turning the rod won't work). Thanks for the suggestions guys. Hopefullu I can get er dun in the next couple of weeks

RacinNdrummin · May 4, 2011

The_Dealer said:
97ranger that looks like the axles are pushedtoo far back.. Might be a radius arm problem if u made your own ext ones. The mounting points will put the linkage at the same position wheter it be stock or not. The bolt will reduce some cleance a tad, but it seems as if the axles are too far back. Which will make the knuckles farther back and the linkage closer to the pivots. Just a guess, sometimes pics are decieving. I found some tie rod adjusters from poly p that I could put on the pass side to align it( the cradle is welded onto it so the turning the rod won't work). Thanks for the suggestions guys. Hopefullu I can get er dun in the next couple of weeks

I think the problem he is having is with the lateral location of the bolt. While you may be right also, there could be some axle location issues, the bolt being further to the right (or left depending how you look at it

) is interfering with the drop bracket, where the stock setup wouldnt have anything to interfere with.

legoms013 · May 4, 2011

RacinNdrummin said:
Im curious why this setup doesnt use TRE's?? If I was to build a setup like this, it would definately have TRE's... More reliable and easier to implement.

wahlstrom1 said:
Cost it my guess, but there's reason you couldn't.

Check my build thread somewhere on the last 8 or so pages. I built a Stonecrusher setup with chevy 1-ton TRE's/DRE's. I've since changed to a Superrunner K-link 1-ton version. I also discuss that the stonecrusher setup is no good for more than about 5" of lift.

I had a local place make me my tierods. They are 1.25 OD, 0.219 wall DOM, tapped on the ends L/R hand threads for the chevy TREs. They ran me about $80 per tie rod and that includes milling wrench flats.

I also had that same problem that 97fordrunner had, and ultimately I had to switch to my 1-ton.ish k-link chevy TRE version that I am using now (aside from the terrible bumpsteer I was getting with 6.5" of TTB lift).

Edit, here are my two previous iterations that didn't work, followed by the K-link which works the BEST. All use the same size tubing and chevy TRE's/DRE's:

First: Stonecrusher copy w/ SJ FA600 pitman arm:

Second: Stock style a la 1-ton, w/ SJ FA600 pitman arm:

Third: Current version, BEST w/SJ FA400 pitman arm:

If I were you OP, I'd find a used superlift superrunner kit, mod it and call it good. Much less hassle, replaceable parts, and minimal bumpsteer. Plus you don;t have to drill out your expensive knuckles/drop pitman arm.

4.0B2 · May 4, 2011

i would use TRE's.. last longer, better for a dd...
i would prefer to make one over buying the superrunner kit tho. that kit costs to much. building one won't be cheap, but it could be done cheaper- unless you find a used kit.

Stonecrusher type steering

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