Crew cab build: 4x4 conversion and gear vendors install.

I know it has been a while since I have been on here much but life gets in the way of fun sometimes. I have been planning this build for about a year and a half since I got this truck.
I have several guide lines for this project.
I want to maintain or improve my ride quality.
I want to use as many stock FoMoCo components as possible to make it easier to service in the long term.
I want to keep this looking close to stock..... ish.


The rig, 1994 f350 crew cab diesel 5spd dually.


The parts: Divorced NP205, allows me to keep my stock transmission with no modifications.


Gear vendors overdrive unit..... like a doubler for tow rigs except you get better mileage instead of going slower.


Kingpin D60, 4.10s to match the stock gears.


Hydroboost unit from a 1996 F-SUPERDUTY with the lines and reservoir needed to swap that in.


I picked up a 1988 F350 crew dually 460 for parts.


It used to be a centurion truck, very nice. I am parting it out and using it for mock up during this project.


So far i have sold the engine and other parts totalling $600. I paid 1000 including fuel to get it home. after I scrap it I should be ahead a few hundred dollars and still have the goodies I wanted off of it. The other parts I am keeping off of it are:
The 10.25 trac-lock (trust me, that tag says 4L10)


The gear vendors.


The factory aluminum wheels.



And some other goodies I forgot to take pictures of like the stainless bed rails, the tow mirrors, and CB.


So far most of the work has consisted of collecting parts and cleaning them up.




I had to get reddi-sleeves for the yokes on the NP205.




I started on fabricating some of the parts I will need to swap the axle in.


I am using stock 2006 and newer superduty radius arms and bushings. I got the bushings and then needed make a sleeve that they could press into. Just a to show how big those are, that bolt is 3/4"x5".

im definately gonna follow this. is it a turbo diesel? or NA

The very first of the direct injection powerstrokes.

ooh, late 94'..... Good years, 94.5-97. Gotta ask, are ya gonna throw the body kit on it too? haha

i have one in my van. i could not be more impressed with an engine. longest lasting thing i have ever seen, and compared to the later units i got lucky.


its over 800k so its end is near, if a cummins is ever procured for the van, and the 7.3 is at least a lively as it is now, it will end its life in my ranger.



its awesome to see you using the late style radius setup, i personally thought about using that with my ranger and the psd van i want to put the cummins in.

do you have an idea of the total cost involved with this setup yet? on the surface it looked to be the best cost solution to me.

Cost..... lets see,
D60- $200
NP205- $150
Gear vendors- Free
Aluminum wheels- Free
Radius arms and trac bar- $200
NP205 seals and such-$125
D60 parts, joints, kingpin kits, seals- $400
Timkin wheel bearings- $75
Radius arm bushings from FoMoCo- $120
3/4" hardware - $30
3/4" drill bit to drill out the bushings- $32
3 5/8" hole saw- $12
Other stuff like paint and hardware and fluids approximately- $100
Clean new steel for the radius arm brackets- $60
Coffee for my friend to use his plasma cutter- $2.75

Current approximate total is near $1500. I would like to be under $2000 by the time that I am done but we will see how it works out. I am trying to do this as cheap as possible but with out cutting corners by skimping on wear parts.

One thing to consider though is that I have been collecting pieces for a while now. The cost of parts like the D60 and the 205 happened somewhere between a year and 18 months ago so that has been absorbed. Also, I stand to make money off of the parts truck so that will help things out as well.

Biggest upcoming cost that I can think of will be all of the drive shaft work that I will need.

metalmacguyver said:

Cost..... lets see,
D60- $200
NP205- $150
Gear vendors- Free
Aluminum wheels- Free
Radius arms and trac bar- $200
NP205 seals and such-$125
D60 parts, joints, kingpin kits, seals- $400
Timkin wheel bearings- $75
Radius arm bushings from FoMoCo- $120
3/4" hardware - $30
3/4" drill bit to drill out the bushings- $32
3 5/8" hole saw- $12
Other stuff like paint and hardware and fluids approximately- $100
Clean new steel for the radius arm brackets- $60
Coffee for my friend to use his plasma cutter- $2.75

Current approximate total is near $1500. I would like to be under $2000 by the time that I am done but we will see how it works out. I am trying to do this as cheap as possible but with out cutting corners by skimping on wear parts.

One thing to consider though is that I have been collecting pieces for a while now. The cost of parts like the D60 and the 205 happened somewhere between a year and 18 months ago so that has been absorbed. Also, I stand to make money off of the parts truck so that will help things out as well.

Biggest upcoming cost that I can think of will be all of the drive shaft work that I will need.

Click to expand...

need to price out some arms....

Arms are 300 ish from ford. Junkyards don't like to sell them separate from the axle. Are you thinking I overpaid for them?

your back! lol a bit off topic but hows the ranger doin last i heard you had 1wd and that was on the front end only haha

The ranger is fine. Just needs a jump start, starter, clutch and water pump and it will be back at it breaking front shafts and shit.

Cut and rounded over the spring perch side of the diff to make it easier to put the brackets on.


Started slinging some primer on the NP205.


And got the axle side radius arm brackets progressing well. I just need to clean them up a bit more before I tack and burn them on.

I am considering running a carrier bearing in the front if it can be done with parts i have laying around and less effort than modifying the transmission crossmember.

The Gear vendor adapter arrived last week. Needed a little work to make it fit. Picking it up today.

Fabbed the frame side radius arm brackets, 3/8 plate and angle iron that I had kicking around.




Had to spread the brackets a little bit, they moved when I burned them together. i used a piece of all-thread and two nuts to bend it out.


Then the axle brackets got burned together and on. I still have a little more to do on those brackets. My plan is to wrap 2" plate around the entire thing including the axle itself so that it ties the bracket to the axle as strong as possible. Not that I dont have faith in my welding skills or my little Hobart Handler 187 (used a lot of pre-heat), Buy over built is better than under built.

Dude, you do nice work!