94 Escort 1.9 auto questions

Now that this is my transportation after the Ranger sold, I have a couple questions. The car: 94 Escort wagon, 1.9 SOHC, 8 valve, 4-speed auto, 98K miles.

The Haynes manual recommended changing the timing belt every 60,000 miles. The car has almost 100K on the original belt. Should I get it changed soon? Will it cause a catastrophic failure if it breaks (valves punching holes in the pistons)?

Also, the car seems kinda slow. It drives fine, cruises great at 70 mph and has never given us any problems, but just doesn't have any guts. I realize it only makes 88 hp at an unusually low 4,400 RPM. Is it supposed to be this slow?

I appreciate any replies and information. I'm staying here at TRS even though I no longer have an RBV because this site has so many knowlegdeable people on it. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any help.

on the older escorts it used to be possible to change the timing belt in about half an hour, don't know about the later ones. I would advise you to change it though. I believe it's a non interference engine as I changed a few many years ago after the belt had broken and they ran fine afterwards.

Regarding the performance, it probably made 88 horsepower in 94, on a good day. they were never known for performance but they were hard to kill.

good luck.

here's a good peice of advice ,the water pump runs off of the timing beltand when you change the t-belt the odds are good that the water pump will go bad and destroy yor new timing belt . this is not a hard job ,buy a good water pump from napa ect. Just put a jack under oil pan apply little press. remove motor mount on pass side where t-belt is.
loosen bolts on tentioner. the t-belt can even be weaseled between crank pully and cover. so you don't have to remove the crank pully.

Thank you for the advice on the belt I will take a look at it.

I figured the car was slow to begin with. I was just hoping someone would have some tips to make it run 12's at the 1/4 mile

Not hard

I had to change mine roadside last month.
Changing the waterpump is a good idea as when it goes it takes either the head (warps due to heat) or the timing belt.

Quick rundown...
3/8 ratchet to crank the belt tensioner and remove belt.
13 mm to remove tensioner.
10 mm to remove timing belt cover.
This cover is hard to remove unless you remove the crank pulley.
Turn the steering hard right and put a socket and breakover on the crank.
Wedge the breakover on the ground pointing towards the front of car and bump the starter. This will loosen the crank bolt real well. remove crank pulley.
10 mm to loosen the timing belt tensioner and compress this tensioner and retighten the 10 mm to hold it compressed.

Remove old belt...At this point your cam timing is still good so don't rotate crank or cam pulleys.

Replace water pump (10 mm bolts) if desired.

Install new belt with the long side (side without the pump or tensioner) of the belt tight.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner and it will push to tension the belt.
Should have equal tension on both sides...tighten tensioner bolt.

Mark the crank pulley to line up with the keyway as the factory marks are tough to see. Install crank pulley...You WILL turn the engine while doing this but that is O.K.
Keep turning until crank mark is straight up and check cam sprocket (pulley whatever) to see if the mark inside the spoke hole is also up and aligned with the mark on the head behind the pulley.

All O.K.?..recheck your bolts and crank it up. Runs O.K.? Put it back together and go! Not O.K.? Might have got it a tooth off.
Usually cam gear is one tooth retarded...loosen tensioner and compress and tighten.
note belt cam sprocket relationship, get a bit of slack and moved sprocket (not belt)one toothe clockwise viewing from the passenger side.
Release the tensioner to take up the slack and retighten. Should be fine as it is common to not get the belt fully tight between the crank and cam the first time.

I always needed to remove the crank pulley again to reinstall the cover, but it can be done without this. It just seems like you are about to break stuff to get the cover on.

I have these tools in my car as the breakover is also my lug wrench.
throw the old belt in with the spare tire and go!!
Good time to replace the accessory belt too. Throw the old one in with the timing belt.
I have owned 6 of these 1.9 Escorts and have broken more belts than I have had flat tires (4:1 ratio).

Net time..hour with the pump replacement...more if you get the timing wrong.

Bruce

P.S. To run 12s use a 1.6 turbo manifold or custom manifold with a T3/T4 hybrid turbo, NOS, RX-7 throttle body, EXTREME weight loss program,
Crower cam, Pre 90 full hemi head with a wild port job, downhill track with a good tailwind. Bribe the time keeper and then LIE a lot....or put a few stickers and a wing on it.

The 1.9 for your year is non-interference, meaning your valves will not contact the pistons if timing is thrown off. I would do it anyway for good measure. It is VERY easy; I just did my boss' gf's 91 Escort in an hour in my shop.

These cars are SLOW. They just have no power at take off, especially with the auto. Also, change your transmission fluid and filter regularly; the 4EATs in these things like to crack in half due to overheating.

Thanks again for all the info. I'm not a mechanic by any means but I have done some minor repairs. I might give it a try whenever I get a chance. I rarely go out of town so it's no hurry.

If anyone else has any related or unrelated info about Escorts I'd be glad to hear it.