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water proofing T-case motor


mkpecor

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how water froof is the t-case motors? what can i do to water froof it? should i calk the crap out of the wireing...
 


dogboy

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I don't think you need to water proof it... Mine sat in a pond (got stuck) for 5-10 minutes with the water level up onto the doors and my shift motor still works fine.
 

97ranger4x4

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yeh knock on wood I havent had any problems with mine and it has sat in muddy water for 5-10 min before as well
 

91exploreron37

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You can waterfroof it by swapping in a manual t-case
 

97ranger4x4

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hey that looks very helpful Earl.

Thanks for posting that.
 

mkpecor

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i was talking to james duff and he said there is no piont to change t-cases the push botton is just as good as the manuel t-cases,he and others have run them for years with no probs.thats what i was going to do but they said its just awast of money. thanks any way 91 exploreron 37, thanks on your input guys i dident want to fry my new motor.
 

Wicked_Sludge

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james duff is full of crap. there are a lot more rangers and explorers on this site than the number of trucks duff has to play with....and the t-case motors are ALWAYS causing problems (try doing a search and see how many hits you get on the problem).

a manual t-case can usually be had for between $100-200 and is 100% worth the cost IMO (yes, i swapped my push-button case out).

however, there is no need to seal the motor. dc voltage is pretty impervious to fresh water.
 

Bent Bolt

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james duff is full of crap. there are a lot more rangers and explorers on this site than the number of trucks duff has to play with....and the t-case motors are ALWAYS causing problems (try doing a search and see how many hits you get on the problem).

a manual t-case can usually be had for between $100-200 and is 100% worth the cost IMO (yes, i swapped my push-button case out).

however, there is no need to seal the motor. dc voltage is pretty impervious to fresh water.
+1 . It's the mud, dirt and small fish IN the water that the motor doesn't like !!!!:icon_rofl:
 

mkpecor

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so should i swop for mal...1350 then? thats what i was going to do,or can i convert this one,its the 1350, if i do it all i have to do is make the shifter hole bigger dont i or? thanks for the info 91explorer!!!!!
 

91exploreron37

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You cant convert the elec to manual so your gonna have to get a manual 1350 and while your at it pull the shifter and linkage, t-case bolts(just in case), boot and unbolt the floor plate(which has the hole for the shifter). Bolt in swap.
Also make sure the t-case you get has the same rear output flange as your truck as they came with two different flanges(a u joint style and a regular flange style)u can also swap your rear output flange onto the new t-case if you cant find the same style it just unbolts with a thin wall 30mm socket.
 

mkpecor

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ya that 30mm nut is sheered off dont know how but came acrossed it when i put a new cluch in the truck,if i take the drive line out i can slide the flang off the out put shaft.
 

91exploreron37

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Thats not safe. Well I guess if you have the split rear driveshaft then I guess its not going anywhere but still.
 

mkpecor

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ya thats what i thought but it hasent sliped off,i got a 6" susp...lift i checked it out at full flex and its cool ...i hope , ya iv never seen any thing like it.i got the truck from some laddy that got it new in 88 her and her husband never took it off road they used it for a pavement pounder ,its gota be the nicest ranger in washington,but i wheel it every were.
 

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