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Will I need to retime motor by doing head swap?


Redwood650

Active Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
42
Vehicle Year
2005
Transmission
Automatic
Pushrod motor, swapping bad heads (Burnt exhaust valves). I have never dealt with w pushrod motor so I am not sure what I am getting myself into. Will I have to time the motor again when putting the new heads on? Do I HAVE to have piston 1 TDC in order to pull the heads ( pushrods) off? Any input would be awesome. The book doesnt say I need to time anything but it also isnt very helpful...

05 3.0 v6 ranger auto.
 
No, No and NO!

Pushrod motor, swapping bad heads (Burnt exhaust valves). I have never dealt with w pushrod motor so I am not sure what I am getting myself into. Will I have to time the motor again when putting the new heads on? Do I HAVE to have piston 1 TDC in order to pull the heads ( pushrods) off? Any input would be awesome. The book doesnt say I need to time anything but it also isnt very helpful...

05 3.0 v6 ranger auto.

It's good to ask questions.. Your answers are all NO!
Your dist is locked into place and is not adjustable. So it is impossible to adjust the timing. Your computer does all the timing adjustments needed.
he as for the TDC of piston #1.. Again no! since you aren't taking the chain off of the timing gears the engine will stay in time no matter which piston is up or down.

I always pull the rockers and pushrods off one at a time and lay them out on a bench side by side lined up the way they came off of the engine. When reinstalling them I make sure to put each pushrod back into the same position it was in when I took it off.. It is possible to get a small click or tow from putting the wrong rod into the wrong rocker/lifter situation..

Camera photos of all the underhood connections before starting is always good. Pull the CAI, schroud, fan and radiator first to have the room to work.
Make sure not to pull or twist too hard on the A/C lines to keep them from leaking in the future..
Big JIm :hottubfun::wub:
 
It's good to ask questions.. Your answers are all NO!
Your dist is locked into place and is not adjustable. So it is impossible to adjust the timing. Your computer does all the timing adjustments needed.
he as for the TDC of piston #1.. Again no! since you aren't taking the chain off of the timing gears the engine will stay in time no matter which piston is up or down.

I always pull the rockers and pushrods off one at a time and lay them out on a bench side by side lined up the way they came off of the engine. When reinstalling them I make sure to put each pushrod back into the same position it was in when I took it off.. It is possible to get a small click or tow from putting the wrong rod into the wrong rocker/lifter situation..

Camera photos of all the underhood connections before starting is always good. Pull the CAI, schroud, fan and radiator first to have the room to work.
Make sure not to pull or twist too hard on the A/C lines to keep them from leaking in the future..
Big JIm :hottubfun::wub:

Thanks, Jim. I was looking forward to your post!

Do I really need to remove the radiator though? I was thinking about it yesterday and even the manual suggests leaving it in there. I think I can do without moving it. It IS a tight fit but I only have 1 set of hands on this job and dont want to dump the radiator if I dont have to.
:icon_cheers:
 
Particularly if you only have one set of hands...take the damn radiator out.. It is a 10 minute piece of work.. If you get a head leveraged in your outstreached hands and it slips into the radiator.. You will be, what they say in china, flucked! It should already have the lower hose and the top hose off of it anyway.. Just six, or four I can't remember which, bolts and it is outta there.
Big JIm
 
Ok, thanks Jim. Gonna tackle more of the job tonight.
 
Red... You do have a new coolant pump and a new thermostat to install in that six year old engine don't you? I wouldn't advise putting them old ones back in there.
Big JIm
 
I do not. I may not remove the rad either as I can get a second set of hands. Only 60,000 miles, you suggest I replace the Thermostat/pump?
 
Since you already have it took apart to the coolant pump.. For the price of a new one it hardly seems worth waiting till it does go south.. And the thermostat is a must also.
Big JIm
 
Ok, I will consider it. I honestly may sell the thing since these 3.0's seem to have so many issues.

Got the the truck down to the valve covers tonight. Gonna try to get to the heads tomorrow. Quick question, upon removing the intake manifold, the manual says to remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail. I was not able to remove the line from the rail. I assume it requires a special tool?I had to disconnect it further down the motor. I fear it may get in the way...
 

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