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Who has broken a Dana 35?


stevenf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
110
Transmission
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I was originally thinking 33's but I would like to throw 35's on mine when I finish the swap and suspension. Just curious who has broken a D35 and what size tires you were running. Also include a small story as to how it broke so I can get a better idea of the stress level it was under.
 
This isn't the right way to judge its strength. You should ask for people that haven't busted it--or at least not very often.

Most busts are from binding the yokes on the center joint which wasn't designed for free motion in the travel some of us can achieve. Second is from interference in the axle beam window.

Another large cause of busted joints is the lack of maintenence. Most trucks we get are very old and the 4x4 has never been used. The joints are stiff or frozen and break.

And the factory lockouts are frail.

A well set up, and well aligned, and well maintained D35 is a good axle that can survive a lot of punishment. I've busted mine a few times but it was always traceable to one of the problems I outlined above.
 
I've seen D60s busted with 4cylinder engines. ANything can be broken with enough abuse.

Will is correct though, some D35 breaks I've seen didn't have to be. Just make sure the passengerside shaft & center u-joint doesn't rub on anything at full flex (or at full droop of the suspension) if you've set it up for more than about 14" or so travel.

.

I broke a 297x u-joint in mine once with 33s after a good hard bounce (wheel cut hard with the throttle floored) trying to power up a rutted-out ravine (this was when the axle was still under my Ranger). I now run it with 35s on my BII and (with Spicer 760s, full-circle clips and the Jeep hubs), have had nothing further break on it. It also has a locker now so normally I only need to crawl where I had to use momentum to get up something before.
 
Same here, the only way I ever broke mine was to get hard on the throttle with the wheels cranked and even then it was only a u joint with 220,xxxkms on it that let go.....aside from problematic wheel bearings solved by D44 hubs, It's an awesome diff. I plan on buildin another ranger in the future, and it'll keep the TTB.

-andrew
 
so would you guys recommend upgrading to beefier U-Joints or just keep a few spares of the stock size? I plan to run the front spooled.
 
I am trying to break mine just to find the limits of it and have not yet had any luck.

I run 33" swampers, and have 2960lbs on the front end. No locker. I have had it bouncing trying to get up a rock face at full throttle and it has not had any issues.


I have tackwelded 297x joints. AFAIK, most failures occur from caps popping out of the shafts and the loose joint destroying the ears of the shaft.
 
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Spools and IFS don't mix.....Throw in a drop in lunchbox style locker and use Spicer 760-X joints with the shafts ground for full snap rings.

-andrew
 
you guys mentioned the full circle clips, i'd like to elaborate a little on why:

the half circle clips have a tendancy to pop off in certain cases after the u-joint end cap begins to spin in the yoke. the result is the cap is flung out of the yoke and the u-joint cross slams into the now-exposed yoke ear, usually breaking the ear clean off. the upgrade to full circle clips is easy and one of the biggest "dependability" upgrades the d35 can recieve.
 
I would prefer to tack the caps in rather than full clips, while full clips don't pop off the caps are still allowed to spin and "egg" out the ears.
 
so would you guys recommend upgrading to beefier U-Joints or just keep a few spares of the stock size? I plan to run the front spooled.

Spicer 5-760X (be sure they're actual Spicer brand, any generic parts-house replacements are NOT the same joint).
Also, you might check out this article.
FWIW, I've not had any problems with egged ears myself, I think part of that issue comes from the axle getting bound up within the beam if it's not clearanced for flex.

Agreed, don't put a spool in it, your turning radius will be two miles (at least that's what it seems like with the ARB locked).
 
hmmm. i have noticed a few times where my ears visibly were deformed before death. usually run em like that till they bust too. drivers side eggs more where the passenger usually explodes, dont see em egged before death. welding seems the best option cause for the time it takes to full clip it seems a waste to me. unless you have had custom moly 30 splines cut to go with a 30 spline carrier


spiders, and splines are where things can be shitty as they arent a 10 min fix.... drop in or detroit locker eliminates spider issues...but the reality is 27 splines are surprisingly strong though

definatly a good axle all around for a rbv.
 
i actually broke mine today. i havent had my bronco but a few months and i havent yet had the time or money to maintain and replace. i have the electric t-case and the auto hubs. i thought the hubs were unlocked and pulled out on pavement with the wheel cranked. snapped without hesitation. i am running 30x9.5-15. i am now going to buy the spicer 760s and new shafts and manual hubs to avoid future problems.
 
I've broken several..but heres a SECRET....D44 uses the SAME u-joint!!


760 joints are a GREAT upgrade for the cost...I just tack my caps in (3 in a triangle around the top)..and try not to have any full turn and bound up motion...that will bust them quick...

get alloys or go solid axle.....sorry...anything else just doesnt hold up to bigger than 34in tires and non-walmart wheelin...:icon_thumby:
 
get alloys or go solid axle.....sorry...anything else just doesnt hold up to bigger than 34in tires and non-walmart wheelin...:icon_thumby:
There are numerous members who have larger than 34" tires on their Dana 35 and wheel it constantly.
 

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