corerftech
Well-Known Member
Usually (unless I have been completely mistaken my entire life) the coolant lines that feed or run into or through an intake manifold are for heating the manifold for fuel vaporization. To keep it from puddling or otherwise assist in fuel temperature control.
With the 2.3L engine, is this true or is it for cooling purposes???
Mine is blocked off. The pipe has been removed and the spigot on bottom of lower manifold is plugged. I am assuming if my understanding is correct, the only defect I should face is potentially MPG, cold condition operation, warm up, etc. Nothing to cause a failure of the engine or its components.
I have been chasing a ghost miss for over a month on Frankentruck. Anybody having read anything here in the last month knows of Frankentruck and it’s exhaustive electrical and assembly issues.
I last posted of an egr tube leak, successfully repaired with JB weld. This altered the way the truck ran for the better again. Changed plug wires but after a couple of days of testing I found the tach bouncing now consistently and it was still popping at start up.
Yesterday I replaced thr 8th spark plug wire, #4 on secondary coil as prior light/time precluded me doing so. I tried to chase a factory found splice as a last resort to find the source of tach bounce. Prior a new ICM (2 months) had resolved the tach bounce but it did come back.
Tearing the loom apart I decided to start the truck with the secondary coil disconnected. The truck ran on two cylinders. I freaked out thinking the primary coil, a replacement, had failed. I dropped in a motorcraft replacement from a 302
Dangling on top of engine and attempted to start, massive backfire.
Quickly I realized that for the last 45 days, from when my final assembly of the car took place, I miss wired the primary coil and properly wired the secondary. The start up pop was a dead misfire from a swap of cyl 4 and 2. The thing is other than the engine acting like is was hunting for timing at startup, the car ran well on the secondary coil but not perfect.
The bucking at 17-2000 rpm was indeed the spark plug wiring error.
Now the truck idles like a sewing machine, 5th gear hill climbs from 1100 rpm don’t even lug- it just slowly and smoothly makes it way up. Every start sound alike my wife’s expedition, perfect.
The tach still bounces and this is the crux of the coolant line question.
The Standard brand ICM is about 2 months old or so. It has low hours, roughly 650 miles on it. I have gotten code 18/88 for SPOUT and IDM problems AGAIN.
It’s intermittent and seems to come to life when the engine was warm (never hot) and my concern is that even with replacing the coils and ensuring all harness is perfect, having heat sink greased and properly cleaned and torqued the 3 mounting bolts—— that I have somehow overheated the ICM by NOT having the coolant line attached (last owner disabled and parts are missing).
Or as I have read, ICMs even new are hit and miss—— it has always had a tach bounce, it’s intermittent and comes and goes but the last 36 hours it seems here to stay. The CEL is new to the last 36 hours and is a monkey that was off may back for 60 days.
I have ordered a new ICM under warranty replacement, I’ll replace and see if a new one behaves different. Cost is $10, my one shot replacement.
Need to know about the cooling line and it’s reason to exist.
Manifold is warm to touch after hard runs and not cold like many I have tested but not more than maybe 140 degrees- certainly comfortable to keep hand on.
What is concerning was yesterday it threw an 18/54/88 and the 54 is the IAT HIGH out of range. That’s what caused the ground splice search as they are grounded at same place in harness. High resistance ground for IAT would create a 54 and potentially an IDM/SPOUT code. The grounds are perfect so did the air temp rise so high that it coded??? I have the heat riser installed but haven’t tested the vacuum control over it. Could it not closing off warm air be raising the air and manifold temp to critical? Or did running the car for 600 miles with two coil towers backwards cause the issue??
Or just a low budget $88.00 Chinese ICM that you buy two to get one that works?? Standard T series from RA.
I appreciate any feedback on the matter
I am embarrassed about the recoil miss wire. It’s funny so laugh please on my behalf/——- but I feel utterly stupid. And I never thought to verify as the secondary coil would kick in at 400 rpm and cover my mistake!!!
Stupid dual coil system———— made a stupid mistake by me-almost invisible.
Mike
With the 2.3L engine, is this true or is it for cooling purposes???
Mine is blocked off. The pipe has been removed and the spigot on bottom of lower manifold is plugged. I am assuming if my understanding is correct, the only defect I should face is potentially MPG, cold condition operation, warm up, etc. Nothing to cause a failure of the engine or its components.
I have been chasing a ghost miss for over a month on Frankentruck. Anybody having read anything here in the last month knows of Frankentruck and it’s exhaustive electrical and assembly issues.
I last posted of an egr tube leak, successfully repaired with JB weld. This altered the way the truck ran for the better again. Changed plug wires but after a couple of days of testing I found the tach bouncing now consistently and it was still popping at start up.
Yesterday I replaced thr 8th spark plug wire, #4 on secondary coil as prior light/time precluded me doing so. I tried to chase a factory found splice as a last resort to find the source of tach bounce. Prior a new ICM (2 months) had resolved the tach bounce but it did come back.
Tearing the loom apart I decided to start the truck with the secondary coil disconnected. The truck ran on two cylinders. I freaked out thinking the primary coil, a replacement, had failed. I dropped in a motorcraft replacement from a 302
Dangling on top of engine and attempted to start, massive backfire.
Quickly I realized that for the last 45 days, from when my final assembly of the car took place, I miss wired the primary coil and properly wired the secondary. The start up pop was a dead misfire from a swap of cyl 4 and 2. The thing is other than the engine acting like is was hunting for timing at startup, the car ran well on the secondary coil but not perfect.
The bucking at 17-2000 rpm was indeed the spark plug wiring error.
Now the truck idles like a sewing machine, 5th gear hill climbs from 1100 rpm don’t even lug- it just slowly and smoothly makes it way up. Every start sound alike my wife’s expedition, perfect.
The tach still bounces and this is the crux of the coolant line question.
The Standard brand ICM is about 2 months old or so. It has low hours, roughly 650 miles on it. I have gotten code 18/88 for SPOUT and IDM problems AGAIN.
It’s intermittent and seems to come to life when the engine was warm (never hot) and my concern is that even with replacing the coils and ensuring all harness is perfect, having heat sink greased and properly cleaned and torqued the 3 mounting bolts—— that I have somehow overheated the ICM by NOT having the coolant line attached (last owner disabled and parts are missing).
Or as I have read, ICMs even new are hit and miss—— it has always had a tach bounce, it’s intermittent and comes and goes but the last 36 hours it seems here to stay. The CEL is new to the last 36 hours and is a monkey that was off may back for 60 days.
I have ordered a new ICM under warranty replacement, I’ll replace and see if a new one behaves different. Cost is $10, my one shot replacement.
Need to know about the cooling line and it’s reason to exist.
Manifold is warm to touch after hard runs and not cold like many I have tested but not more than maybe 140 degrees- certainly comfortable to keep hand on.
What is concerning was yesterday it threw an 18/54/88 and the 54 is the IAT HIGH out of range. That’s what caused the ground splice search as they are grounded at same place in harness. High resistance ground for IAT would create a 54 and potentially an IDM/SPOUT code. The grounds are perfect so did the air temp rise so high that it coded??? I have the heat riser installed but haven’t tested the vacuum control over it. Could it not closing off warm air be raising the air and manifold temp to critical? Or did running the car for 600 miles with two coil towers backwards cause the issue??
Or just a low budget $88.00 Chinese ICM that you buy two to get one that works?? Standard T series from RA.
I appreciate any feedback on the matter
I am embarrassed about the recoil miss wire. It’s funny so laugh please on my behalf/——- but I feel utterly stupid. And I never thought to verify as the secondary coil would kick in at 400 rpm and cover my mistake!!!
Stupid dual coil system———— made a stupid mistake by me-almost invisible.
Mike
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