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What is going on? I have tested everything show's okay but still no start?


I just re-read most of this thread. It looks like you have focused on the fuel side.


Do you have spark?


If you are getting fuel on the plugs the PCM is working. The ignition system can function independent of the power train management.
 
Pick up a cheapo spark tester from the parts house. You can also carefully use a light bulb style test light. Ground the lead and remove a spark plug wire. Have someone try to start the engine with the tip of the test light about 1/2" inch from the metal inside the boot. You can also remove the feed wire from the ignition coil to the disty and do this.

You're looking for a real good spark. It should be able to jump about 1/2 inch to darn near a full inch if it's in really good shape.

If you have fuel, air....you need spark at the right time. Sounds like that might be the issue as adsm mentioned.

S-
 
lol I do not have cheapie tools they are all off of the truck, I try to never look at my receipt book from over the years it hurts to much haha.

I already tested for spark that's what i did first before going onto fuel. In my first post I have up that I have spark at my coil, and from my dis. I have a inline spark plug tester and I have solid spark at all six cly's.
 
Tedybear thank you for the info, but I've been wrenching in stealerships and shops for over 15 years now. Got the sore knee's and weathered hands to prove it. :p
So you can talk to me like I'm just another A level tech, and not a newbie with no worries. :)
Also I have a remote starter switch that I use when I do not have another hand to help me out, which is 95% of the time. :( No one to help turn over the engine, I was only able to bribe my cousin a few times to leave the damn house. Kids now a days as lazier than apple pie.
 
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I'm wondering if the PCM is possible testing good but still acting faulty, as in those pain in the butt situations were it will work some of the time, but will never act up when you go to test it.

Also my timing is dead on I set it twice, argh this is such a pain. Older American cars are suppose to be easy dog gonnit. I only have these type of headaches when I am working on higher end newer European cars that have those stupid "ghost" problems where you are chasing intermediate bumps in the night that waste away your flag hours. Argh!
 
I assume you've checked that your dizzy is in proper phase with the camshaft? On the 2.9's there's two starts to the threads on the engagement shaft, so it's easy to get the distributor 180 deg out of phase with the valves.
 
Yup I have. Yes the dis can be a little bit of a PITA sometimes when you want to get it lined back in correctly. I think I am going to take a break from my truck and see if the problem pops up. I'll go and work on my car or something, my mind is fired from trying to figure out what I could have missed.
 
Okay I now have eight days until I have to travel back to school. I went over my ign system again today, I reset my timing, checked that I had spark, tested my ign control module and my coil, they tested fine, but just to be 200% sure I even took them off and brought them to autozone to have them bench test them. And everything showed fine. So I have fuel, spark the motor cranks and spins freely but turn the **** over! What am I missing! This doesn't make any sense. I've diag 100's of no starts but what the heck. This motor doesn't have a crank sensor so I don't know. Tomorrow am I will take the dis out to look it over.
 
worn out,stretched, timing chain finally jumped time?
 
SBL:

I read the tread a couple times, looking for confirmation of couple things:

Truck runs for couple moments when you feed it starting fluid? Do the exhaust pipes get warm?

Plugs will get 'wet' with fuel?

I was thinking - what happens if you plug the exhaust (remove the exhaust push rods/trash down stacks?) You would still have compression, might run for moment...

Throwing out some ideas...
 
Sigh...yea that was what I didn't want to hear. but is probably the problem. Well I'm going to take out the dis and make sure I have it on intake and not the exhaust, give it another go. And if it doesn't fire I'll see if I can pawn some things to put a new chain on. I did it about eh six years ago, but I have been having allot of problems with cheap "china" made parts over the years. Getting parts out of the box that were bad allot lately. So who knows.

Thanks, let's hope that it is not that.
 
hmm, great idea Don! I'm going to give that a go first thing in the am before I take out the dis or take apart the motor to get to the chain. If that can get it running at least I can see if I hear the chain rattling or making noise. ^_^
Thanks guys.
 
Assuming you haven't discovered that your Dis. is 180 out or that your stacks are flowing too much...


it sat for a while... did it sit through spring in Mass? if so, go over all the wiring that is even remotely associated with your ignition and ECU, looking for bite marks. My in-laws are from Hudson, and my BIL left his car for the spring semester, and the rodents got into his wiring and basically totaled the car.
 
No cridders got into my wiring harness, it's good to go. I took out my dis and reset my timing again just for the heck of it and peace of mind. I tested my TPS and IAC just because and a why not. I even bypass my clutch safety switch, I spent the whole day tearing the truck apart. And it does the same thing acting like it wants to turn over for a second or so and then nothing. I'm at my wits end, now I feel like I should have gone fishing in my lake and enjoyed this perfect day instead of wrenching on this thing.
I'm going to see how much a peterpan bus is and work something out. I won't have my dorm frig or other super important things with me to bring to school. But eh I'll have clean clothes at least.
 
Saw what Don4331 wrote and had been thinking the same thing for days but too embarassed to say, "Check to see if someone shoved a potato up the tail pipe with a broom." Do you see any exhaust coming out the stacks after a weak start? How about disconnecting the exhaust headers to hear if it will run. Or hook up your compression gauge to a plug hole without the check valve to watch the compression build up but also RELEASE a few times.
 

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