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What is a “self adjusting” clutch?


LonesomeSTX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2008
Messages
656
Age
48
City
Columbus, GA
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Back in December when I replaced the clutch in my 2000 Ranger the parts guy told me it calls for both a self adjusting and non self adjusting. Because the self adjusting was $200 more I got the other one. When I removed the old clutch it had springs built into the dick that the new one did not. I called the parts guy and he assured me the one I just bought would do the job. So, several months later and I have had nothing but clutch problems ever since. The parts guy told me the parts I bought are still under warranty. So before I go in and get the parts that cost $200 more over the $200 I already spent, can some tell me what the self adjusting clutch does? Why would it make a difference? If everything else is installed correctly and the system is properly bled, could that be my problem?
 
Most hydraulic systems are self adjusting like the front disc brakes, more fluid remains in the slave as the pads wear down, so brake pedal travel remains the same.

Rear brake shoes require a mechanism to adjust the shoes because of the return spring design.
While they are self adjusting it does require a mechanism not just the hydraulic/slave setup like the front pads.

The self adjusting clutch design usually has a ramp type design that closes as friction plate wears, so clutch plate moves closer to flywheel and clutch slave travel and pedal position stay the same.
If you had a self adjusting clutch mechanism then I would stick with that, there was a reason for it.
The $200 more seems excessive though.

And the hydraulic system should self adjust for quite awhile before you run out of travel in the slave, that would be the reason for adding the self adjusting mechanism in the clutch itself, limited travel in the slave, but you shouldn't run out of travel in a few months.

If I remember correctly when the self adjusting clutch mechanism came out you could reset it with a hydraulic press(push it back in all the way) and just install a new friction plate and throwout bearing.


What are your symptoms of a bad clutch and what engine?
 
Last edited:
Everything Ron said plus my master and slave cylinder for a 1994 4.0 cost around $100.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 

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