What else is left to check? Engine cranks, no start!

[Rangerrr86]

Ok so Ill try to let you guys know everything I did. I bought a head for a 2.3 (83-88) online. I had a engine from what I believe was a 94 (that timing belt fit perfect on the sprocket). I put the head on it had new valves and all. I re used my camshaft and lifters . I checked and its getting spark. I also was able to get a good shit of fuel out of the purge. Re checked the timing. Still won't start and starting to lose hope. When I shoot staring fluid in the intake I get it to sputter up a bit but that's it. Any suggestions on what it might be? Any help is appreciated thanks.

 

[Mikel89us]

Have you verified for sure cam timing? And if so, how did you time the distributor. Have you checked your plug wires for proper firing order? 1-3-4-2. I'm assuming that this is the 86, and carbureted. Have you had the carb apart? Could be bad fuel, but if it sputters and wont start with ether, I'm positive its a timing issue. Be it ignition or mechanical.

 

[RonD]

Yes +1 ^^

If no start with ether then it isn't a fuel issue, has to be compression or spark.

Can you check compression?
2.3l should be about 160+psi

Can you check spark timing with an old timing light?
Connect light to #1 spark plug/wire and crank engine to see if #1 is sparking at TDC mark.
It could still be 180deg out though, if distributor is being used.

 

[Rangerrr86]

It is a 86 fuel injected. The block is on compression stoke. The cam is at the mark. Not sure what u mean by can timing. Had a buddy do the ignition timing so I believe that's right.

 

[Mikel89us]

You need to verify ignition timing then. If you haven't properly timed it on reassembly you most likely have the distributor out of sinc. You want the rotor pointed at about 1oclock looking from the front of the engine, with the crank at top center and cam mark lined up. You want I to be pointing close to the contact for the wire for cyl number one. This should get you close, then turn it in very small rotations till it fires, then if you have to hold the throttle open to keep it running while turning the distributor slowly to get it running smoothly. If you have a timing light, you will want to pull the spout connector (little gray connector by the distributor plug) and set base timing. Stick base timing I 8 degrees advanced, but I suggest setting it at 14-16 degrees.

 

[RonD]

Block/crank doesn't have compression stroke, it only has Top-Dead-Center(TDC)

Cam decides compression stroke, and exhaust stroke, crank is at TDC for the end of both of these strokes.
So there are 2 TDCs on each full rotation of the cam, this is why the Cam Gear is twice the size of the Crank gear

If you remove #2, #3, #4 spark plugs then turn the crank manually it will slow down and get hard to turn on #1 compression stroke, continue turning until Main Pulley is at 0 deg with TDC mark
Check distributor, rotor should be pointed at #1 on Cap, if not "make it so"

If compression stroke ends and no TDC mark then timing belt is installed incorrectly.

I know you have said you check all these things..................but here's the deal
Engines are very simple things
Fuel
Compression
Spark(for gasoline engine)

That's all you need, all the other stuff just makes them run more efficiently so not needed for starting.
If engine is running rough or lacks power or has bad MPG you can check all the other add-on stuff, but for "no start" it is only those 3 things that matter

Ether is a fuel, you tried that and no luck, so problem isn't fuel
That leaves compression and spark

 

[Rangerrr86]

Appreciate all the help guys. First time doing this so I'm learning. I guess my next step is check the compression.

 

[tomw]

U sed:When I shoot staring fluid in the intake I get it to sputter up a bit but that's it.

So why check compression? It has compression, or it would not even sputter.

Do the timing checks mentioned. Once you are absolutely sure the timing is close, then check that the injectors are working, or at least the fuel pump by checking pressure on the injector fuel rail. Should be greater than 40psi with the engine off, key cycled to 'on' several times.
You can then squirt some combustible fluid into the intake, after opening the throttle plate manually to allow it to get in. You can use a vacuum port to inject some fluid if you know what you are doing. If the engine will start and run for a few seconds on fluid, you have narrowed the problem down to a fuel delivery problem.
tom

 

[RonD]

Sputtering with ether is much different than sputtering with gasoline
ether has a combustion temp of 300degF
Diesel 400deg
gasoline 500deg

Compression is heat

A diesel engine doesn't need a spark plug to ignite fuel because it uses a higher compression ratio which heats the diesel fuel enough to self ignite.

Gasoline engine needs the compression to pre-heat the fuel enough so a spark can ignite it.
When gasoline engine compression gets down to the 110psi area a cold start gets very hard, ether, having the lower combustion temp, is pre-heated enough to be ignited by spark at the lower compression.
A couple of teeth off on a timing belt lowers compression.

Compression is also a very easy test to do, if you have a gauge, and once it is "off the table" as possible no start issue spark can be looked at.
Compression can't be intermittent, like spark or fuel, at least I have never ran into that, so once it has been ruled out with a test, spark or fuel must be the issue.
Fuel is easy to test with ether
So spark is the issue

 

[Rangerrr86]

The only other thing I can think of is that I used the distributor from the 86 and put it in the 94 block. Not sure if that matters

 

[Mikel89us]

No, it doesn't matter, the distributor should work fine, it seems to me that you have something in the ignition wrong.

 

[Mikel89us]

It should run.with ether if the ignition was right.

 

[tomw]

If the distributor has a TFI module attached to the base, you might want to check that they are interchangeable from the two years involved.
You can check timing with the engine at TDC by removing the distributor cap, turning the ignition to ON, loosening the distributor body, and rotating it back and forth past the reluctor. The rotor should generally be pointing to the #1 plug wire, and as you rotate the distributor body, you are 'faking' rotating the distributor shaft.
If all is well, you should be getting a spark each time the body goes past the tooth on the shaft. Firing order is 1342, so note where #3 is located. That would tell you which way the rotor turns. You want to 'back it off' (the body) such that you can 'pretend' that the rotor just made #1 spark. In other words, fake rotor movement using the body, and when it sparks coming onto #1, lock the distributor down, and replace the cap.
You KNOW that the plug will be firing right about TDC, and that should be enough to get it running (not really drivable - no power) so you can pull the jumper and set it at 10BTDC.
tom