Valve Lash Adjustment

[1BadRS]

I'm putting my new 2.8 together and just set the valve lash to the specs in the manual. My question is about the note they have in the book

"when checking lash, insert feeler between rocker arm and valve tip at front (or rear) edge of valve tip and move toward opposite edge with a rearward (or forward) motion that is parallel to the centerline of the crankshaft. Do not insert feeler at outboard edge and move inward toward carburator (perpendicular to the crank centerline). This will produce an erroneous "feel" that will result in excessively tight valves."

While I have this on my engine stand it would be much easier to make sure I did this correct rather than after its all installed in the truck. Where is the best place to insert this feeler gauge between the arm and valve tip to get an accurate measurment?

Thanks

 

[Big Jim M]

You just wrote it down yourself!
Big JIm

 

[pillen140]

from front of engine to back, not from exhaust manifold to intake manifold.

 

[1BadRS]

Got it and thanks

 

[Eric Kropp]

I did my valve lash adjustment on a stand and found that as soon as I fired it up all the adjustment went to the moon with in a few minutes of running. So If I were you I wouldn't cinch down the valve covers 'til after you fire it and run it a little and re-check the adjustment.

Eric

 

[dangerranger83]

Thats the samething that happened to my dads truck with one valve, has a very nice tick going down the road, mine has it too but not as loud plus his engine is a rebuilt one. Its just something I'm use to and love hearing.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

I've done it enough times I don't even bother to use a feeler anymore. I just do it by ear and feel, haven't screwed it up yet. To avoid mis-adjustment it's best to loosen and re-tighten them about a half turn in both directions before setting them. Turn the engine over a time or two after adjusting all 12 and double check clearance before buttoning it up.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I also went as far as make sure they were all on the compression stroke TDC started on number one with a thin screwdriver in the plug hole and made sure the cylinder was all the way up and went in order 1-4-2-5-3-6 snugged the covers on and started it till up to temp the checked them again when cold and a couple needed to be tweaked I get a slight tick at start up but goes away as soon as oil pressure is up. The best thing I did for the engine was new valve guide seals and intake oil leaks and use 10W30 synthetic quaker state with a motorcraft filter. And if you can duraspark it now if you already haven`t.

 

[enginepaul]

After break-in, you will need to re-adjust them. (I don't have a manual handy, so I don't know the recommended mileage for that) The book also tells how to determine if the valves are in the proper position for adjusting.

General theory here: If the lash is too loose, the valve won't open to the maximum lift designed. If the lash is too tight, the valves won't close completely.

 

[dangerranger83]

The engine was broke in, had 27,000 miles on a Ford factory rebuild, sat in the donar truck for 5 years before we put it in my dads truck. But now after a year, we see the very light blue smoke now, so thats on the todo list, but not on my dads highest priorty list, using less oil then it was dripping it from when it had the manual oil pump.

 

[fordfan]

Just found this, and maybe someone can help me. I just had an 88 2.9 V6 rebuilt at the shop and read that I should have the valve clearance re-adjusted after a (?) break-in mileage. At around 1800km I started to hear a tick that disappears EVERYtime at 1500rpm. It sounds 'loose, or sloppy' but when I took it in to the shop, the guy told me you did not have to re-adjust the valve clearances, as they are hydraulic. My hubby cannot hear it. This is NOT the same sound as a sticky lifter- it is a 'cleaner-sounding' tick, but it DOES sound like a valve thing? I did all the proper oil changes at break-in. I am about 6000km into the new motor now and need to know where to look. To me, it seems that it is quieter under load, and when I release from acceleration this tick gets noticeably louder, and disappears instantly everytime (for two months now) at 1500 rpm exactly (clutch in or not). Should I re-check clearances yes or no? I yes, at hot or operating temp? I know this IS a mechanical noise, not a pinhole in the exhaust. Also, seems a little harder to start than in the first 1000 km, and smells like fuel when starting cold, could these be related? I will be checking my IAC for stick, and cleaning if possible. Thanks for any input!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just found this, and maybe someone can help me. I just had an 88 2.9 V6 rebuilt at the shop and read that I should have the valve clearance re-adjusted after a (?) break-in mileage. At around 1800km I started to hear a tick that disappears EVERYtime at 1500rpm. It sounds 'loose, or sloppy' but when I took it in to the shop, the guy told me you did not have to re-adjust the valve clearances, as they are hydraulic. My hubby cannot hear it. This is NOT the same sound as a sticky lifter- it is a 'cleaner-sounding' tick, but it DOES sound like a valve thing? I did all the proper oil changes at break-in. I am about 6000km into the new motor now and need to know where to look. To me, it seems that it is quieter under load, and when I release from acceleration this tick gets noticeably louder, and disappears instantly everytime (for two months now) at 1500 rpm exactly (clutch in or not). Should I re-check clearances yes or no? I yes, at hot or operating temp? I know this IS a mechanical noise, not a pinhole in the exhaust. Also, seems a little harder to start than in the first 1000 km, and smells like fuel when starting cold, could these be related? I will be checking my IAC for stick, and cleaning if possible. Thanks for any input!

What kind of oil are you using. It is possible they didnt install the rockers properly and an adjustment would probably help anyway from normal wear. With the engine cold put the cylinder your adjusting on top dead center on the compression stroke. back off on the adjuster until you feel a lash then slowly adjust it down until it touches no lash. Then count the turns in, tighten it 1 1/2 turns in. A little breaker bar works good so you get them all the same. It should have been done after the first couple of complete warmups and it will help with overall performance also. Synthetic oil and a motorcraft oil filter might help also. Make sure the engine is cold when adjusting the valves. Pull all the plugs and find compression stroke on number one by sticking you finger in the plug hole and line up the timing mark on TDC and adjust the lifters for #1. then follow the firing order and stick a skinny screwdriver in the plug hole of the piston you are adjusting and turn the crank with a wrench until the piston is all the way up and adjust those lifters.

 

[fordfan]

re-adjusting reman valve lash

Thanks KIMCRWBR1. I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic blend 5w30 as of today (I read it contains needed phosphorus-zinc for the flat tappet) as I had noticed little variations in oil pressure for the last month or two. Prior, I was standard 10w30. My Dad always told me to feel through the feet and listen to your vehicle, and this is stressing me out!! And as I stated earlier, the dude at the shop didn't want to double-check my valves when I told him it sounded loose, not like a sticky rubber thing (sorry that sounds stupid, but you know what I mean, I'm sure) All that money and I'm waiting for the toilet to flush, so to speak.I will look into this this weekend, do you think maybe this could be related to my o/p dropping? Thanks for sharing wisdom!

 

[fordfan]

PS I like your Ranger, it makes me miss my baby. They sure handle a LOT more reliably than the B2's

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Engine temp will also change the oil pressure one thing to consider.