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Using the top or bottom mounting hole for the front axle?


King Crush

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
89
Age
39
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
So I see where each side of the front axle bolts into the mounting brackets there are 2 holes a bottom one and a top one. I used the top one. Does it matter? I'm sure it has to do with allignment. I would think the bottom would be better to use than the top cuz less angle the axle is. I got plenty of pics I took of al this I wil post em when I'm done.
 
I assume it's a 6" Skyjacker lift from your other post?

What are the specs on your truck? (Supercab? Reg cab? 4cyl, 4.0L?, etc)
 
I assume it's a 6" Skyjacker lift from your other post?

What are the specs on your truck? (Supercab? Reg cab? 4cyl, 4.0L?, etc)

Yes Junkie, I am in the process of puttin' a 6'' Skyjacker class 2 in. I never realized how much work it really is. I wish now I woulda paid 'em to do it no. The old brakets and cross mamber were a real b1tch to get off cuz they were riviited. And I burnt a hole in the spedo cable with the torch, and hit 2 of the sending unit wires going in the treansmition.

It's a 4.0, Reg cab.

Thanks Junckie you know your stuff!
 
Reg cab 4.0L...

What I would do, is put the drivers side axlebeam in the top hole (big bracket), and the passengerside beam on the bottom hole (cast bracket).
For reasons I have not yet been able to figure out, Skyjacker positions the holes a bit different on the passengerside than the driverside :icon_confused:

In some cases, I've found drilling a 3rd hole between the two that are there (on the cast bracket) to be even better still.
 
Reg cab 4.0L...

What I would do, is put the drivers side axlebeam in the top hole (big bracket), and the passengerside beam on the bottom hole (cast bracket).
For reasons I have not yet been able to figure out, Skyjacker positions the holes a bit different on the passengerside than the driverside :icon_confused:

In some cases, I've found drilling a 3rd hole between the two that are there (on the cast bracket) to be even better still.

Junkie, I just did that tonight. We'll see how it elighns. Will it help? I'l also have pics soon of everything.
 
I know on the superlift brackets, they have the same two holes. One is supposed to be for the 4" lift and the other for the 6". I had to use the lower hole for both of my 4" lifts(Ranger and Explorer) otherwise the tires would sit like this....\../ (I tried following the directions on my Ranger)Using the holes for the 6" lift the tires straightened up... l..l
 
Junkie, I just did that tonight. We'll see how it elighns. Will it help? I'l also have pics soon of everything.

It should help, yes.

The Skyjacker 6" coils will in reality sit at about 5" lift on that truck (a little less if you have a winch & bumper).
Putting a new hole in between the existing holes will match it up better with what the upper hole on the other side's bracket is, so you should be able to use the same camber/caster bushings in both sides (otherwise you'd need ones that are radically different for both sides, which makes aligning them a bit more tedious).
 
It should help, yes.

The Skyjacker 6" coils will in reality sit at about 5" lift on that truck (a little less if you have a winch & bumper).
Putting a new hole in between the existing holes will match it up better with what the upper hole on the other side's bracket is, so you should be able to use the same camber/caster bushings in both sides (otherwise you'd need ones that are radically different for both sides, which makes aligning them a bit more tedious).

Thanks man. I allready go it all in and everything tight. I used the holes you told me. I allready got the cast iron bracket in (that was a major b1tch taking out the original one) and don't feel like taking it out to drill a hole inbetween the the bottom and I don't feel like taking it out to drill a hole now cuz there. Does it really matter? If they have trouble aligning it then I might eventuall hafta. Also I wish I woulda spent more money and gone with new leafs in the rear instead of a block, I hear blocks suck and I will get wheel hoop, and it also look "cheap." I'll see how the blocks work, if they work fine I'll leave 'em, if not I'll be gettin' some Softride Skyjacker leafs for it here very soon.
 
You should be fine.

A competent shop will know what to do if it doesn't align right away.

(My guess is you'll need somewhere around -1° camber correction on the drivers wheel, and probably +0.5° on the pass side (well within adjustment range), going from my own experience with this on my 4.0L Reg Cab)
 

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