Urgent Help Needed!!

[wesleycl]

Hi, I am new to this but I am having a serious issue with my brakes and have to get it fixed within the next 2 days. The issue started when I was getting some new wheels put on my truck and the mechanic noticed my front passenger caliper was sticking. I replaced the caliper and it still hasn't fixed the issue. So from there I went to the next thing and replaced the brake hose. Still has not fixed the problem. I can compress the pistons and put the caliper back on and the rotor will spin freely but press the brake 1 time and the pistons will not retract both with or without the engine running. its as if there is some sort 1 way of valve that will let pressure in but not back out. Please help!! 2004 Ford Ranger Edge 2x4 Torsion bar front end

 

[rangerjunk]

Is it only one side or both?

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[rangerjunk]

I'm thinking it may be in the abs controller. I would. Flush the system and start over. It maybe a pinched metal line. Also are the slides clean and lubed on the caliper and the pads installed correct?

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[wesleycl]

Just the passenger side. I haven't had any problems with the drivers side. I replaced the pads last year and noticed that there was a weird wear on the passenger side. the only thing that isn't new is the steel line going from the hose to the ABS module and I'm pretty sure it is flowing freely because I left my banjo bolt at O'reilly and had to go in a different vehicle to get it out of the warrantied caliper. All of the fluid is now clean and clear. probably went through a pint since there was no caliper hooked up to it while I was gone. I bled the brakes and got the pedal back and still the same. Im at a loss as to what it is and I have a bad feeling that it might be ABS module but the ABS light is not on

 

[wesleycl]

Also, yes they are installed correctly. double checked that.

 

[rangerjunk]

I'm thinking it's the abs module. Try hitting it with a hammer lol no serious hit it with a hammer Mayberry up sometime in it. Never any thing other than brake fluid in the system? I have used Denatured alcohol to clear up contaminated brake systems up. Just flush out all brake fluid and install the Denatured alcohol bleed it like it was brake fluid and then reinstall new brake fluid and the swelling from the oil or contaminated fluid will go back to normal. It's worth a shot.

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[wesleycl]

I may just end up taking it to a shop because it is above my head messing with ABS. I don't want to screw up $1,000 in ABS parts then labor on top of that. Im not familiar with some of the parts in the Braking system but is the ABS control module re-buildable? Regardless of what it is I will have to look at it tomorrow. thanks for the help thus-far though. Maybe between everybody here we can get it figured out.

 

[ab_slack]

I would have thought collapsed brake line but you replaced that already.

Don't know if something in ABS module could act like a check valve. I thought operation of ABS was usually to interrupt brake pressure which shouldn't prevent backflow, but maybe something there.

Basically you are feeling something isn't letting brake pressure to be released. There is a simple test you can do.

When you depress the brake and it grabs and then won't release, open the bleed valve just a moment and allow the teaspoon or whatever little fluid is under pressure out. Does the wheel turn freely then?

If it doesn't turn freely then, you have eliminated everything in your brake lines, fluid, ABS module and master cylinder and know the problem is at the brake caliper or something with the rotor.

It is possible the new caliper has a problem. Maybe the slides that allow the caliper to float are sticking and you end up with just one of the pads pushing against the rotor? Is the rotor in the correct position (i.e. could there be a wheel bearing problem)?

Just a couple thoughts there.

 

[wesleycl]

Thanks for the replies, the only thing I have not replaced is the steel line going from the hose to the ABS. Earlier today I opened the bleeder valve and it did not let the rotor move freely however I removed the caliper and pushed the pistons back into the caliper and it moved freely after that but after one touch of the pedal it was locked up tighter than a drum. It is not bad enough to where it wont move but could not get the rotor to turn by hand like I can on the other side. With the wheel back on I can get it to move with a little force. I really have no idea now what it could be because I put a new caliper on it for this same problem last summer and replaced it again yesterday under warranty and is still doing the same thing. Also the pads are still wearing faster than they should. Another problem has arose though. I put the new caliper on and now have air somewhere and I have no idea where it is. I probably put a pint of brake fluid through it trying to bleed it out. I bled both front brakes and still no luck. I have a spongy pedal, the ABS will NOT lock up when all the way to the floor, and it pulls very hard to the left to the point where it will jerk the steering wheel. I think I have caused more trouble than what I started with.

 

[Mark_88]

ABS are BS anyway so just get a T split and some plugs for the abs unit and bypass it...run the line right from the master and connect the two lines from the front to the T splitter...probably save you a couple of hundred dollars and solve the problem if it is the module...then you can replace it at your leisure...

I'm willing to wager that a shop will charge you about $400 to do the work because it will probably involve some special tools and lunch for the crew...but...if you like to lock up your brakes every once in a while it may be better to have the thing working properly.

 

[wesleycl]

yea... I might need it. I live in a town with a whole lot of stupid drivers and it is a necessity to have ABS. Ill just live with it for now until it gets worse and then get it fixed. I did, however, get the spongy pedal issue fixed. Wound up being air in the driver side rear drum. Turns out my dad let the master cylinder run out of fluid while I was gone to the parts house to get a new caliper. On to the next project.... Ball joints and clutch master cylinder.

 

[Mark_88]

Ball joints are a pain in the balls...or can be...use some heat and a 5lb hammer to get them out...I had one done by a BYM (back yard mechanic) and it took the better part of an hour for the passenger side...they were OEM though.

What ticked me off was after he did all that pounding and installed the replacements he looked at the box and said "these are the cheap ones...won't last more than a year"...I felt like whacking over the head with his hammer...wtf...why didn't he say something before putting them in???

Anyway, so far it has held up fine...about two years...

The clutch master is pretty easy...as long as you can get the so-called "quick disconnect" off the slave...

Is it leaking or are you having other issues? They are usually pretty durable...think I still have the original on mine...

 

[wesleycl]

It is leaking into the floorboard. On some days it will get air in it and wont let the clutch completely disengage causing really hard shifting conditions. The ball joints wont be that hard just have to make sure to use a press and not other methods like deep well sockets and c-clamps. I bought Moog ball joints for mine which are able to be greased. Couple hours work + new tires + co-op front end alignment = happy front end. By the way, I found out that it saves a ton of money ordering parts online. I ordered 2 lower ball joints and both upper control arms for $180 after tax and free shipping

 

[Mark_88]

There was a post about ordering on-line and they were pumping discount code numbers...haven't seen it for a while but apparently some guys were saving even more...think it was Rock Auto though...

Anyway, have fun with it...

 

[wesleycl]

Well, my truck is happy for now. I have fixed, FINALLY, all the collision damage and fixed the ball joints. I have also put tires on it and had the front end aligned. Just today I put a new RCM on it to get the airbag light to go out. Now that I got that fixed something else is going to happen.