Twin turbo 5.0 explorer accessory alternatives needed

[corerftech]

Need some suggestions.
starting the 5.0 into 87 std cab and have determined a few things.

Batt box needs to go to bed.
Coolant/washer tank must go (or relocate/change format as applies),
Power steering pump needs to become remote Volvo electric.

I need space on both sides to have two TD04 Saab turbos mounted on forward facing manifolds.
On left I have an alternator on the EXP FEAD and is missing AC comp.
On right I have PS pump that will delete.

That leaves me with:
Clutch fan smooth pulley
Alternator
Tensioner and other pulley
I really need the alternator in a high position.
Water pump may become electric too. And maybe fan!

Unsure of where a Mustang alternator bracket mounts.
Suggestions?
Trying to avoid a single turbo as I still have to dump the PS pump to get manifolds pointed forward.

Anyone using GT40p cast headers switched left to right to get forward facing exits?

The Junkyard is the project store so there is no - “just buy this”, truck is a Frankenstein and that is the point of project.
Thanks in advance.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Volvo power steering pump is a big win. Put one on my 1988. Good stuff, and frees up space.

The Mazda 3 one is apparently pretty good too.

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[RonD]

Should do an e-fan regardless

No off-the-shelf bracket is going to work for alternator
I assume this won't be an off-road vehicle?
If ground clearance is not an issue then can you mount alternator down low?

Diagram here of low mount: https://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/8-895/10002/-1

 

[corerftech]

I believe after reviewing on a bronco site, that deleting the PS pump completely (elect conv) may get me enough space where most critical on driver side for a turbo. After reviewing the diagram both PDF and the actual engine, it’s just best to leave the mech water pump and do the AC/PS delete.
I’ll need to create custom headers for both sides…… in either case.
I found some Hedman flange/stubs at 1 5/8 to start the process and I’ll have to pie cut my brains out. Seems like the inner fender liners are going to leave too. Else I won’t have room.

I have a JYD grocery list now.
It’s almost seeming better to remove the serpentine belt aystem and go back to two groove pulleys. It would relieve some space with no tension/idler pulleys and big brackets

 

[corerftech]

RonD that’s a possible option too!
Down low, even if I have to make a bracket or adapt one.

 

[bobbywalter]

Flowtech 12167FLT Small Block Ford Turbo Headers, Natural 304

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Hacking those up at collection point with them inverted would be a place to consider starting for costs....they are down and forward in intention but I have seen them inverted in a truck .. you get alot to work with for the money..

I would . .with junkyard parts being the idea .....do a panther front k swap....and use them as intended with the front ranger frame sections removed.

And I would use the LS platform headers in this version....along with the LS engine.


Because twin turbo junkyard 302 parts is not going to work well .... Tuning it to survive is a bitch ... Getting 600 hp is impossible to be reliable ... With junkyard parts


450 hp N/A build via stroker ....HELL YEAH!! I would roll the dice on that.

Twin turbo? 4.6 or coyote if you want to use a junkyard ford v8. ..

And if that generates interest ...the panther swap makes it easier too.

There is a place for an explorer engine for damn sure ... But I don't see it as a TT application .... I have broke them in half too many times N/A.....let alone head gasket issues over 11 to 1 and 500 hp....

You can absolutely do it cheap with jy parts....and have it all. But you have to choose the combo wisely

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[corerftech]

BW, target power was 425-450 at best.
Using tiny TD04HL-15 turbos from Saab 9-3, each is good for 300HP at 1 bar. At 5-7 psi the pair would do exactly as needed, rather gently as well. The engine is a 51k mile old born in 2001 and died in Rear collision in 2005, in storage ever since. The engine is hardly broken in.
A $500 engine complete with efi, add a MegaSQ 3 with boost control driver , $100 Mitsu/Saab turbos and some bits and pieces and there is the 425 ponies I am after.
It’s a science project.
But I pulled the fan from the donor a few minutes ago and that revealed a bit on the cast log manifolds.

I believe that if I rob another early (96-98) driver side cast manifold for the passenger side and leave it pointing down, it will dump the socket under the idler pulley and allow me to cross over to driver side and back up. Then turn the driver side manifold upside down and that will dump up in same location. With a complete Ps/AC bracket delete I have a spot for a single turbo (maybe). Alternator can stay where it is. I may be able to cut up the PS bracket and relieve it enough to make room but I think too close to pump. The electric PS is best.

In a couple of days I’ll pull the manifolds so I can actually measure where outlets land and ensure two driver sides will accomplish the goal.

If I hack up headers ($$) then I can do twin turbo. If I save cash with cast logs which will flow just fine for the purpose, then I will need to upsize the turbo. But one is easier than two, fewer parts, less piping.

The turbo will cost much much more.
$$ no matter which way I turn my head so pick my poison.
I sent out a message to a manufacturer who makes driver side Alternator relo for Mustang application asking about maybe conforming one to the explorer water pump length, it places the Alternator quite high and may allow simple reversal of manifold sides but it’s more money for special parts when “maybe the dual driver logs will fit good.

Appreciate the ideas. I couldn’t find a low mount like avail for SBC, but I realized that the donor engine has a FMC right angle oil filter right where the Alt would live, using RonD suggested topology. It would work on passenger side though.
Chevrolets have all the good parts, too bad they are orange. I like blue better, don’t like orange engines.

Pictures show in order, driver side log exit, then the void on passenger side it would dump to (down behind the aluminum bracket), the last pic is the area it would dump up into where the PS reservoir is ( to be removed).

With an aftermarket windshield washer tank (small) and a relo coolant expansion tank, there is room for both E-PS pump and turbo pipe. All avoids the steering column. I have to figure out where to dump exhaust but if the engine is slid to left closing the normally tight passenger frame gap a bit, there may be a big hole for a 3 inch exit between frame and engine. Then again, I may be in La La Land. I guess offsetting the drivetrain an inch more than typical might have a benefit or two.

 

[RonD]

You can run larger radiator with dual valve 16lb cap(same cap we use now) and just a hose down the side of radiator from the cap, no tank
Leave coolant in rad down about 1" to start
And run vehicle hard
Some Coolant should come out hose as it expands
Then let engine cool down all the way, coolant will shrink
Open cap and see the level in the rad, that's now the FULL mark
You can put a mark on the side of the rad, tape, paint a line, ect.............

This was the normal way cooling system operated for years and years, there was always air at the top of radiator so coolant could expand, but radiators got smaller and engine operating temps got higher, 180deg to 195deg, so more expansion, so instead of larger radiator they used a separate tank, "overflow" tank or "Degas" tank, although both of these were more for a VISUAL indicator of coolant levels, and of course cheaper than a proper size radiator, lol
So not dangerous or harmful in any way, just old school

Radiator doesn't have to be BIG
The Mustang 289/302 3 row radiators are suppose to be good for up to 500HP and can be found at good prices


Usually you have to use remote mounted oil filter with 302 V8 in a Ranger
But no reason the alternator can't go on passenger side of crank

 

[bobbywalter]

Cross flow and hood line are the main reasons for modern cooling systems...if the radiator is below the water jackets...things get janky ....Degas works better with crossflow and efficiency potential with steam port applications has merit.




Sub 450 is certainly reasonable....

with err to fat side with the MS system on map, I can see a 302 staying in the safe range..

Possibly with a long life with the conservative timing to keep in range of power ...

If the drive psi is good, even those wormy ass head bolts won't need upgraded.

Low rpm engine with usable power...

. Get er did.

For what your proposing...just build the FEAD after your done ....some 1/2 inch flat stock and a few pullies to run the alt and water pump.

Cake with stock t bird headers.

Or .

 

[corerftech]

BW please send a link for the above headers.

 

[bobbywalter]

These ones too....

1000HP 1979 - 1993 FOR FORD MUSTANG Turbo Hot Parts Manifolds Headers 5.0L 5L T4 | eBay

Flanged for a T4 turbo. WG flange is now a round 44mm wg flange. 5.0 Ford Single Turbo Kit.

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Manzo Turbo Manifold / Header for Ford Mustang 79-93 5.0L V8 T3 / T4 Twin Turbo | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Manzo Turbo Manifold / Header for Ford Mustang 79-93 5.0L V8 T3 / T4 Twin Turbo at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Summit Racing SUM-G9063 Summit Racing™ Block Hugger Headers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Block Hugger Headers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Headers at Summit Racing.

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[Blmpkn]

 

[corerftech]

I thought about that after seeing some goofy builds. Awful convenient.

 

[bobbywalter]

 

[corerftech]

So I “learned myself up” on compressor map math…….
saab 9-3 turbos won’t get it done until 6-7000 rpm. Even two of them.

But….. neither will ChiCom GT45s.

So….. Turbonetics has a gem and I see one hiding in the weeds. It delivers 45lb/hr at only 44k rpm at 10 psi (450hp on gas) and that’s the lower end of the “efficiency island”. It’s entire operation from 2000 rpm to 6000 (engine) up to 600 hp lives in the efficiency island and doesn’t exceed 80k turbine speed——- so from darn near idle it makes 5 psi and will do 20 psi at 6000 on a 302 on gasoline.

Recommended to me as the 62-1/.82 but it’s small for the job for low rpm boost. Great above 3500 rpm but not deep guts.

I believe the cast logs will be the ticket, but I’ll need 2 driver side cast logs.

The saga continues