Trying to get my 302 swap to turn over

[Moose_]

Hey guys- happy sunday! ...I need help.

I have been working on my 302 swap (build thread here: http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164114) and I cant get any signs of life out of. Engine is 1971 302 w/ 2bl 2150 from a Torino.

After getting the mechanical all together, priming oil pump, getting the dist in, plugs sorted out, and carb back on, I decided to see if it would turn over. I put the battery in it, unplugged the coil, and turned the switch... Nothing.
I tried jumping right to the starter- nothing.

1). Is my started dead? I have a second one, tried to put 12v to it, and it didnt flinch either.

2). Was expecting at least to hear a door chime or something, but there is nothing at all. Tried with a charger pushing 25A, and still nothing.

Taking a coffee break to regroup before going out and giving it another shot.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Moose_]

forgot to mention I was hoping to get fuel up to the carb- but no fuel pump noise either... Could my ignition switch be dead too?


I didnt want to have hack ALL the wiring out and run switches and whatnot, but Im starting to think that might be easier than trying to sort out the existing. So many blank connectors sprinkled all around the engine bay.

 

[RonD]

Color of battery cables don't mean much any more.

You don't mention the year of the truck, wiring did change over the years.

1971 engine's starter motor will use a separate starter relay(solenoid) on the fender.
The "+" battery cable will go there, then another larger cable from opposite post on the relay to the starter motor.

The "-" battery cable should have a larger and smaller wire, larger wire will go to the engine block, often one of the starter motor bolts but a good clean(paint free) connection to the block is fine.

Smaller wire will go to rad support(headlight ground) and there will be a jumper wire from there to inner fender.

On the back of one of the heads, usually drivers side there will be(needs to be) a ground strap from head to Firewall, again paint free bare metal contact on both ends, this is the Cab ground, very important.

There also needs to be a ground strap from engine to frame, usually on motor mount bolt, engine side, to motor mount bolt, frame side, but you can use any engine bolt to frame bolt as long as it is clean.

Where the "+" battery cable connects to the starter relay on the fender that post is the Power Distribution for the truck, Alternators B+ wire goes there with fusible link, a wire from here to the engine fuse box also powers the cab fuse box.

On the starter relay is a smaller post marked with an "S", the wire that goes here comes from ignition switch, if cab fuse panel has power???, then when key is turned to START this wire will have 12 volts and starter relay will close and send full battery voltage to the starter motor.
Starter motor or any electric motor needs TWO voltages to work, in this case 12 volts and 0 volts(Ground), no 12 volts no spin, no 0 volts no spin.

 

[Moose_]

Color of battery cables don't mean much any more.

You don't mention the year of the truck, wiring did change over the years.

1971 engine's starter motor will use a separate starter relay(solenoid) on the fender.
The "+" battery cable will go there, then another larger cable from opposite post on the relay to the starter motor.

The "-" battery cable should have a larger and smaller wire, larger wire will go to the engine block, often one of the starter motor bolts but a good clean(paint free) connection to the block is fine.

Smaller wire will go to rad support(headlight ground) and there will be a jumper wire from there to inner fender.


On the back of one of the heads, usually drivers side there will be(needs to be) a ground strap from head to Firewall, again paint free bare metal contact on both ends, this is the Cab ground, very important.

There also needs to be a ground strap from engine to frame, usually on motor mount bolt, engine side, to motor mount bolt, frame side, but you can use any engine bolt to frame bolt as long as it is clean.

Where the "+" battery cable connects to the starter relay on the fender that post is the Power Distribution for the truck, Alternators B+ wire goes there with fusible link, a wire from here to the engine fuse box also powers the cab fuse box.

On the starter relay is a smaller post marked with an "S", the wire that goes here comes from ignition switch, if cab fuse panel has power???, then when key is turned to START this wire will have 12 volts and starter relay will close and send full battery voltage to the starter motor.
Starter motor or any electric motor needs TWO voltages to work, in this case 12 volts and 0 volts(Ground), no 12 volts no spin, no 0 volts no spin.

So I did neglect the firewall ground, but the starter was wired correctly... I did manage to get the spare starter to turn, but only very slowly, and started to melt my jumper cables. dont really want to swap the starter out, but it isnt the hardest job to do so that might be next. Getting pretty cold so I think I will call it for the night, but cab did not have power when I was out last. I'm going to start printing out the diagrams and coming up with a strategy for dealing with the rats nest.

**Truck is a 1986