transmission came out of gear shifting down from overdrive

[mnunes810]

Hey guys, I've got a 1999 Ranger, 2.5L 4cyl, automatic trans (5R55E, I think), 2wd. I started having a problem with the transmission recently. I was going down the interstate, about 70 mph, and went to accelerate passed a car. When I put the pedal down, the transmission came out of gear instead of shifting down and the engine revved out. I got off the accelerator immediately, and it quickly settled back into gear. If I accelerate more gently, it will downshift without any problems. Transmission still shifts smoothly otherwise. Trans fluid is definitely not low, in fact, I'm worried it may be too full? The fluid is about 1/5 of the way up into the thatched area on the dipstick when hot. Any thoughts? Haynes manual doesn't tell me anything. Further notes: I'm at 207k miles and I have worked the truck pretty hard, but it is very well maintained. I change the trans fluid and the filter every 30k miles, and last did it about 10k miles ago. Thanks for reading.

 

[pcollins]

Something sticking in the valve body maybe? But first I think I'd check the kickdown cable adjustment, since you said it happens when you try to pass people. Automatics are basically always in gear.

 

[adsm08]

But first I think I'd check the kickdown cable adjustment,

Can't be that. He said it is a 5R55E. E E E E E Electronic. No kickdown cable.

Something inside isn't working right.

 

[mnunes810]

Something sticking in the valve body maybe? But first I think I'd check the kickdown cable adjustment, since you said it happens when you try to pass people. Automatics are basically always in gear.[/QUOTE

adsm08:
"Can't be that. He said it is a 5R55E. E E E E E Electronic. No kickdown cable."

Haynes Manual confirmed this: "Early models (1993 and 1994) with A4LD transmissions are the only models equipped with a kickdown cable"

Which was news to me, because I thought I had one and wondered if that would be mentioned here. Could you elaborate on the valve body? I'll read up on it on my own too, but that's a new one for me.

But while I was reading about the kickdown cable, I saw next to it "shift cable-adjustment" that's pg. 7B-2 in haynes. This led me to realize something I didn't mention, which could be really important. The gear selection indicator on my dash has been inaccurate almost since I bought the truck 70k miles ago. I never thought much of it because I thought it was just aesthetic, but now I'm wondering if that could have something to do with it. When I'm in full drive, the indicator is actually more between full drive and drive 2. I'll try to get it in the right place to see if it helps. For all I know though, I might have already worn it out from driving around like that for so long.

As mentioned, it's high mileage, so I realize it might just be time for a new trans. I just want to make sure there's not something I can fix. However, with so much use, I can't see how it would not have degraded significantly on the inside. Also, it is my understanding that rebuilding one of these is an excessive undertaking unless you somehow have access to a ford shop. Would everyone agree?

Big thanks for prior responses.

 

[adsm08]

The needle in the dash has very little relationship to the actual trans selection. It runs on a nylon cable that gets stretched. It has an adjuster on it though. Take the knee bolster off and find the black wheel near rhe column. If you cant get that lined up go get a new PRNDL at the dealer. They are like $20 or so.

I'll explian valve bodies when I get to a real keyboard.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[mnunes810]

The needle in the dash has very little relationship to the actual trans selection. It runs on a nylon cable that gets stretched. It has an adjuster on it though. Take the knee bolster off and find the black wheel near rhe column. If you cant get that lined up go get a new PRNDL at the dealer. They are like $20 or so.

I'll explian valve bodies when I get to a real keyboard.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

The needle in the dash has very little relationship to the actual trans selection. It runs on a nylon cable that gets stretched. It has an adjuster on it though. Take the knee bolster off and find the black wheel near rhe column. If you cant get that lined up go get a new PRNDL at the dealer. They are like $20 or so.

I'll explian valve bodies when I get to a real keyboard.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

Oh ok, kind of what I thought initially. That is good to know for sure. And, thanks. I'll be checking back. I know what you mean about postin from teh Galaxy, btw. I had one a few months and it drove me nuts. Back to the good ole qwerty keyboard blackberry now.