Thoughts on Buying This 2007 Ranger

[Arolsma]

Any thoughts on this Ranger? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/880380832703814/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined
I have not yet looked at it in person. The guy says there are some rust holes in the bed, which may be a deal breaker; he is going to get me some photos of that tomorrow. I would want to replace the rear bumper due to rust and at least the bottom portion of the front bumper since it has some damage. What should I expect to pay for new bumpers? As it is, his asking price is below the KBB good condition private party value range. It looks pretty dirty, but that is what soapy water and wheel cleaner is for.

 

[Dirtman]

I'd want to thoroughly inspect the frame for rust before making any commitment on it. Spring hangers are a known problem but can be fixed. Bed cross rails rot and are more difficult to fix. Any serious rust anywhere on the actual frame and I'd walk away.

 

[DILLARD000]

150k Miles on a V6~4.0L~SOHC, could easily have TimingComponent damage if not well maintained.
Listen closely to left front ValveCover & right rear ValveCover, if any TimingGuide\Chain noise, walk away.
If either left or right OilPressurized TimingTensioners have any rust, they've likely never been changed;
check manufacture dates on outer ends to see how old; these should be changed every 75k~100k miles.
Look down oil fill on right ValveCover & pull the PCVValve on left rear ValveCover, look for sludge.
Take a OBD2 scanner that will read standard+Ford TroubleCodes.
$4k seems a bit high for 150k miles; I'd try to cut that down by $1000~$1500, if no major issues found.
Best case, you'll likely need $1000+ to catch up on maintenance items for a reliable ride, once it's yours.
Worst case, you'll need a new engine.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Check the frame behind the rear spring hangers for rot thru. If it runs good and the frame isnt swiss cheese i think 3500ish is a decent deal.

 

[Arolsma]

Any thoughts on this one? https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...ghtspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner
Right now I am dead set at $4000 and he is dead set at $5000. I think I might be able to get him down to $4500. That is $500 more than I want to spend, but it is from Texas; that solves my rust issues lol. 185,000 miles is a lot, but rust is almost a bigger problem than miles. It has new Michelin tires. The Kbb private party value is a little below $5000 in good condition.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Any thoughts on this one? https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...ghtspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner
Right now I am dead set at $4000 and he is dead set at $5000. I think I might be able to get him down to $4500. That is $500 more than I want to spend, but it is from Texas; that solves my rust issues lol. 185,000 miles is a lot, but rust is almost a bigger problem than miles. It has new Michelin tires.

Id go after the black one (if the frames good) just because its a manual and has less miles.

 

[Arolsma]

This 2008 seems pretty decent. https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...48/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined
The hood is frozen shut they say, so they can't yet look to see weather it is a 3.0 or a 4.0. They think it is the 4.0. If it isn't, I most likely will forget it. Right now my biggest concern is the rust in these photos.

I want the truck to last 5 years without rusting all apart. Do you think this rust is a big issue? I would stay on top of cleaning the truck to slow down further spread, but will that be enough? It would probably cost like $750 to have fixed, or be a long, drawn out project to tackle myself. The interior looks pretty clean from some pictures they got me. The KBB private party value is about $4,700. With the rust and dents, 4K is the most I will pay.

 

[09fx4guy]

That is quite a bit of rust for a 2008. If the hood is frozen shut, again, that is another red flag. Once they do get it open, take a look at the front core support because they have been known issues as far as rust.

I have similar but nowhere near as advanced rust issue with my truck on the doors, but I caught it early and have kept it at bay.

 

[MikeG]

Get a good pic of the rear axle, that will identify it. 8.8 rear end is a 4.0

 

[Jazzer]

The 2006’s, 7’s, and 8’s had rust out problems on the bottom of the passenger doors. Once it gets into the lower seam it’s basically a replacement deal, obtaining a used door from a rust free state.

 

[Arolsma]

The 2006’s, 7’s, and 8’s had rust out problems on the bottom of the passenger doors. Once it gets into the lower seam it’s basically a replacement deal, obtaining a used door from a rust free state.

How much would that cost? From the pictures, do you think this is something that would have to be done within the next five years? The front passenger door definitely look the worst.

 

[Alan_nc]

With as much money as you are planning on spending I think it would be worth the time and effort to find a Southern one with no rust at all. You can find vehicles of any year with no rust at all in GA, NC, SC. Work out a deal, fly or drive down and drive it home.

 

[Arolsma]

With as much money as you are planning on spending I think it would be worth the time and effort to find a Southern one with no rust at all. You can find vehicles of any year with no rust at all in GA, NC, SC. Work out a deal, fly or drive down and drive it home.

That is definitely a good idea. Those states are rather far away though. Western Kentucky, the very bottom of Illinois, or the bottom half of Missouri could be driven to and from in a day. Do you know how those areas are for salt? Even at that, it seems pretty risky to drive that far for a 10 to 17 year old vehicle. My dad did drive a rental to buy our 2016 Transit in southern Ohio last year though, so.....

 

[Jazzer]

I agree with Alan, however, you can check door prices on car-part.com for doors.
Figure in shipping prices and bodywork and painting.

-Jazzer

 

[Eddo Rogue]

lowball the shit out of him like they do on these car build tv shows...give em the old Richard Rawlings. I'd call him Dick.