suggested tool sizes for rear leaf spring removal

[Tedybear]

As noted in the suspension area. Our Explorer (1995) has decided once again to turn into the plant from "little shop of horrors" As in FEED ME!!

And in this case? It wants green...

Drivers side leaf spring (this has mono springs) has snapped. Thankfully it's still able to be driven around, but this needs to be addressed asap. The snap is just where the front spring wraps around the bushing. It curves up about an inch..and then about 1/4" up? You can feel the rest of the spring with a jagged edge.

I have a feeling it's been like this for a while.. So the next (and last trip with that spring) will be back to the yard for a set of multi leaf springs.

I need to know if anyone has the sizes for the shackle bolts and the U-bolts. I'll be heading up to the barn tomorrow afternoon and picking up my breaker bars and such.. I'd like to just hit the yard with the basic tools needed to extract a set of springs, and not drag along 20 pounds of additional tools that may not be needed.

Thanks!

S-

 

[don4331]

Tedy:

In the yard removal - recip saw. Cut the shackles off, cut the u-bolts off, out in 30 minutes or less (we had to go to 2 Rangers to get 2 good springs.)

Back at home - 18mm for the u-bolts; 21mm for the bolt, 22mm for the nut.

Shackle bolts were really corroded in on mine; needed press to remove them...

 

[Tedybear]

Tedy:

In the yard removal - recip saw. Cut the shackles off, cut the u-bolts off, out in 30 minutes or less (we had to go to 2 Rangers to get 2 good springs.)

Back at home - 18mm for the u-bolts; 21mm for the bolt, 22mm for the nut.

Shackle bolts were really corroded in on mine; needed press to remove them...

Once I get the replacement springs home I can remove stuff with an electric cut off wheel. The P&P yard I have to deal with never allows cutting tools in the yard. And god forbid you ask them to cut off a part. Those clowns get $75.00 PER CUT!! That was the price I was quoted to lob off a rocker panel and dog leg for the explorer. $150 for both sides for the cutting and $150 for the rocker panels and dog legs. (we found that 98 in the yard in body-mint condition.) I passed and ordered in the rockers for $60 new shipped. Dog legs will take a bit more custom metal...but you get the idea.

I asked in the other forum about types/sizes. RockAuto shows up to 2001 I think that would fit. So of course I'll hit up the newest one first and see which one has bolts that break free from the mounts. I'd love to get a boost in the rear end by using a 4door with 8 cyc. However I'm not sure if that would work. Rock auto shows a totally different part ID for the 8 cylinder. Difference in length, how wide...etc... So I'll likely stick with the V6, but with a multi leaf.

I'll be heading out soon for the family 'barn' where I keep my tools stored. 1 breaker bar, Big Pipe....BFH (Big F&&&&&& Hammer), etc... I also need to finish dropping a starter to snag a battery cable set. Ours has a lot of green goobers, and I found one in mint shape, but didn't have an long enough extension for the top starter bolt to get that out of the way.

Thanks!

S-

 

[don4331]

Local yard differentiates between grinders - not allowed and saws - allowed.

What they wouldn't do is allow me to take a jack into yard or to use one of their engine cranes to lift the truck so it wasn't resting on springs. So, I called my son (played line for his high school football team) and we lifted @$$ end of Ranger, springs dropped and we set it back down.

Missed his help when I replaced niece's Ranger's auto, but don't miss feeding him.

 

[Tedybear]

Local yard differentiates between grinders - not allowed and saws - allowed.

What they wouldn't do is allow me to take a jack into yard or to use one of their engine cranes to lift the truck so it wasn't resting on springs. So, I called my son (played line for his high school football team) and we lifted @$$ end of Ranger, springs dropped and we set it back down.

Missed his help when I replaced niece's Ranger's auto, but don't miss feeding him.

I can dig it. Our local yard out in Auburn, NY allows cordless sawzall, but not grinders. The year in Syracuse, NY won't allow any cutting tools in the yard-except theirs. (because of their prices for them to 'cut' anything ya might want....)

I get lucky with the yards at times. I pulled a set of explorer springs a few years back for the Bronco II. They had the rim-jackstands right up against the spring mount. Thankfully not a lot of rust and they backed out easier.

This time might be interesting. I need to find a good set on a later model year. Prefer a 4 door so it has extra weight capacity. And first thing to do is hit the shackle bolts and ensure they are not rusted to the bushings. They have several out there, so I should be okay. (I hope)

S-

 

[pjtoledo]

drive shaft, 12mm 12point wrench or socket
something to keep driveshaft from turning.
something to cut Ebrake cables.
a hack way of cutting cables is to place cable on something real hard, like the head of a big hammer, and use a cold chisel to crush/cut thru it. take 2 hammers!

 

[Tedybear]

Okay....


Stiff and sore as hell today!!! But the job is done.

Wife and I hit the yard early yesterday morning. Goal was to find a 2001 (or as close as possible) 4 door explorer to pull rear springs. With a 2 door sport, I wanted the extra spring capacity.

First 3 we check? Front bolts broke free just fine! Rear shackle...Bolts totally seized in the sleeve within the bushing.

We went down the row with more Explorers (this year seriously has about 30!..not sure if that's a good thing...LOL) Came to a 2000 Sport with a multi pack spring. Said what the heck, we'll give it a shot. Body rusted to hell, but the frame was solid and rust free!

Everything broke free normally. The bolt head size was different then ours, so I'm sure things have been apart before and things replaced. Thankfully things came apart fairly easy. Granted it was pushing mid 80's for temp.

Finished things off by grabbing a set of battery cables (ours are not the best...). I started removing them last time I was in the yard a week ago, but couldn't get the starter dropped quickly. This time? Someone actually removed the starter and left the battery cables in place! So kicked the body ground bolt loose (the one near the control arm) and that only cost about $ 1.40 when I cashed out. If I had Napa do the cables for me? Would have run about $30 as a guess.


Decided to install the springs the same day, as temps are going to push lower to mid 90's today.

Thankfully nothing seized up. Broken spring? Fell out as soon as I released the rear shackle. Very glad I had a 2nd floor jack under the lower spring to axle mount..as the whole thing dropped down hard on the jack, and another 1 inch would have ripped the brake hose apart. (I had to drive it to the yard in that condition....the weight of the truck was holding it together)

Now on the lighter side. The rear shocks under the truck? Actually still look fairly new. Gas charged and strong! I labeled the springs "L" and "R". I swapped their position.. I've read that the one on the L normally has sag due to the driver and fuel tank weight on it.

The truck picked up about 1 1/2" in height. Seems to have taken the sag out of it. The donation truck has 125k on the clock....And of course ours had 230k+ on it. So this made a marked improvement.

Rear U-Bolts got tightened to 64ft lbs (lower end of the scale according to the shop manual) I will re-torque in a few days after driving to ensure they remain okay.

Thanks all for the help!!

S-

 

[Tedybear]

Posted a photo of the broken spring over in the suspension forum area. Still believe with all the rust build up and crud that this spring has been broken for some time. Sense I lift the rear end by the jack under the axle tube, and stands under the lower shock mount/u-bolt bracket mount? I never saw this...

The inspection station had this up by the FRAME and should have seen this clearly!

S-