• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Stuffing 35's under a 1st gen with a 6" lift


JunkCollector

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
Messages
79
City
VA
Vehicle Year
'85, '88, '91
My credo
Local RBV "expert"
I've seen 33's stuffed under a 4" with little rub so I'd like to think with some trimming and a Duff 6" lift you could run 35s, but could a 2.8, d35, 7.5", and 4.56 gears power it? And has anyone ran 35's on a 6"? I'm trying to avoid body lifts and I can't find any pictures. Will be a long time before I get around to getting the lift, but I'd like to know what I can do so I can start planning...
:icon_welder:

Edit: By 2.8 I mean warmed over with Duraspark, a 4bbl offy intake and 390 carb, and a Walsh stage 1 cam. Somewhere around 170hp is my goal with it.

After more research, screw it, swap out my tk4 to a tk5 and stick the tk4 shift knob on to mess with passengers, and go all out with 4.88s/5.13s!

Feasible, or am I just daydreaming? :icon_twisted:
 
Last edited:
35,s require stronger stuff for cruising many miles consistently.. the bearings and spacing on the 28 are just asking for problems. if you are only mall crawling and just want to look cool and drive it few miles here and there you will be ok.



if you want to drive it at least swap in a d35.

a d35 with 44 outers would be ideal. better brakes and strength.



3 in body lift and a sawzall in any case on top of the 6 in lift.
 
My plan was a dana 35, but the 7.5 to 8.8 I won't really be able to do until extremely long term when I can weld better than I can now, with a better machine than I have now.

I was checking out 4x4junkie's B2 running 35's on a 3" suspension and a 2"bl so I figure, same amount of cutting and all-suspension lift should work, even though I know 1st gen fenders are a tad smaller. I dislike body lifts because of what it does to shift linkage locations and things like that. I'd prefer to keep the body at stock height. I'm not afraid to cut all the way to the body line, it's rusty anyway!

http://www.broncoiicorral.com/resources/4x4junkie_bronco_ii.shtml

But considering I'm building this for overland travel, maybe 33's would be a better choice under a 3". I don't want the tiny 31's but I dont want the truck-on-stilts look that 33's on the 6" have. Seems like it'd be top-heavy.
Edit: Another page says it's a 5" lift, I guess a 2" body wouldn't be that bad but it's really something I want to avoid. I wish they offered an 8" lift somewhere for these. Man, Jeep guys have it made. Too bad I don't like Jeeps.
 
Last edited:
I’m interested in the same info. But I want to put 285’s (33s) on my truck without a body lift or cutting the fenders. Right now I have a 4” lift ordered with an inch worth of spacers if needed. To be safe I’m considering 265/70-17 tires but would rather have 285s.
Do you think 285s will fit without fender trimming? I guess bump stops will stop fender contact.
 
they are your trucks guys... do as you will, I am merely trying to broaden perspective overall. people often prejudge with narrow perspective.





a body lift allows better options for linkage improvement and maintenance. custom bumpers mitigate gap issues....a small bit of creative work will pay off if your keeping the vehicle longterm.

a 1.5 to 2in body lift is ideal for these smaller trucks if you like to abuse them.

for trouble chasing adventure overlanding, it could be a godsend. get into some issues with a t case or trans in the bush... its time well invested.



bbc3.... goals determine what needs done. if you don't need uptravel more then 2 inches...sure you can fit a 33 with the right wheel offset....careful driving and steering stops too.

don't think I would like driving something like that:icon_confused:


my truck has a 6 in suspension lift, 3in body lift and fits up to a 44 inch tire.... and I can drive like an idiot with 42 inch tires.

so I suggest to cut the fenders and get flares. you will be able to put those tires to work getting your asses stuck good and proper. you know.....so you will have a real good excuse for wisely investing in a new warn winch:D:D
 
I’m interested in the same info. But I want to put 285’s (33s) on my truck without a body lift or cutting the fenders. Right now I have a 4” lift ordered with an inch worth of spacers if needed. To be safe I’m considering 265/70-17 tires but would rather have 285s.
Do you think 285s will fit without fender trimming? I guess bump stops will stop fender contact.

Good friking luck. The 1st gens have tiny wheel wells and you want huge tires.
 
My truck had the A4LD and a 3" bodylift did nothing to the shift linkage. I made an extension for the 4wd lever which was no big deal. Easier than hacking fenders.

It is a fricking PITA to go from my truck even with a V8 swap to a cramped stock truck in a JY. Pulling the fuel tank, t-case or trans is cake on mine... not so much on a stuck truck.

I wouldn't put any more money into the 2.8 than I had to. DS and ignition will basically make it run the same as stock running correctly. A cam alone won't get you 60hp. Even then it is a high winding engine, when the going got tough I had to go to 4lo often with mine to get any power out of it with 235/75-15's and 3.73's.

Even the spark plugs on the stock 2.8 were easier to change post bodylift.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top