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stripped bolt head!


robert.humm

Active Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
32
City
Elizabethtown, IL
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
ive got a bolt head stripped out.. whomever had this truck before me most certainly did not deserve it. it's of the bolts that hold the carb spacer/egr mount to the manifold. any suggestions on getting it out? anyone have an extra or know where to get one? please help! :bawling:
 
Try one of those "Gator grip" sockets? I know I have had good luck using them.
 
if its a torx head Ive had some luck getting them out when stripped if you use a bigger torx head socket and tap it in with a hammer if not then you can drill it in the center till the head pops off and use some vise grips to try and turn out the ramaining bolt. Also a little bit of heat on the bolt itself will go a long way in getting it out
 
It should grip it....Honestly, it is pretty much the only type of socket I use anymore.
 
Sears sells easy outs for just this. No drilling involved providing it is a stud and it is not frozen in place. I have a set and they have pulled me out of many a jam. Good luck. BTW, they look like you would pull a nut off not a stud. They work great!
 
If you go to drill it use a left turning bit from the heat and pressure possibly it will spin right out when it bites. just make sure the bit is the same size as the bolt shaft. when I changed my intake manifold for oil leaks those bolts were pretty tite made a snap when they broke loose. It makes it kinna nice the hole is already there to center the bit if you have to remove the head/heads.
 
Make sure you stuff some rags in the holes so no metal gets in the heads or cylinders. Are you going to put valve guide seals in also
 
kimcrwbr1, where did you get replacement bolts? i have't really thought much into putting new valve guide seals in.. probably wouldn't hurt!
 
You might find some in hardware store pretty sure there metric thread you can probably get some at the bone yard also did you get them out. My guide seals were all pretty much not there make a big difference on oil use and that puff of smoke at start up. I took a compression tester fitting and ground it to fit the plug holes put the piston all the way up used a thin long screwdriver to find TDC of each then put 30 lbs pressure on the cylinder bought a palm spring compresser and used a big screwdriver to pop the keepers loose. compress it about half at first to break the keepers loose but not fling them then all the way to remove the keepers the new seals pressed right on. The first two or three were kinna difficult till I got the system down then they went quick you just need to get the compresser far enough down on the spring to start. I numbered the push rods with holes in a box to keep tract. I put it all together except I did not torque the EGR spacer bolts started the motor and let it get good and hot with no water then I went back and retorqued the intake manifold bolts spacer bolts and valve covers. There were only three rockers that needed to be adjusted the book says the gap and sequence but I just winged it and worked out. The tech library has the procedure also but I tell you it was all I could do to stop with the intake off I wanted to keep going Good thing I`m short money or I probably would be just now putting it back together. I will run this engine till it pukes in the meantime I plan on rebuilding one and a tranny. This is my first truck and have grown rather fond of it call me crazy but prefer driving it rather than my 95 cherokee.
 
I have a 83 ranger with 89 BII 15" aluminum wheels half a pack of cigarettes a full tank of gas does it get any better. I even like the way it sways going over railroad tracks kinna like riding out a earthquake. He He
 

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