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2.3L ('83-'97) Starts sometimes runs like crap and back fires


97 parts truck

New Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2022
Messages
3
City
Maine
Vehicle Year
1997
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
My truck developed a lifter tick so i fixed that and went to start it up and it wouldn't. I checked timing was all set then I checked the fuel pressure good, then I checked spark that's where this starts to get interesting had spark on 3 of 4 cylinders but the wire was damaged so I did new plug wires. After changing the plug wires I got the truck to start but it will on run when you pump/ floor it, but it doesn't run right it misses/backfires out of the intake. its probably something simple that I'm overlooking but I have been working on this thing for 3 days straight and I cant find anything on the forums. Any help would be very appreciated (only CEL is for a coolant temp sensor)
 
Take a compression reading... My guess is you've got valves stuck open after messing with the lifters or the timing is way off.
 
Can only be the cam/crank timing it off
Could be crank sensor timing so harmonic balancer issue

Back fire out the intake means fuel is ignited while intake valve is still open
So spark is happening too early or way too late
Spark timing is controlled by the crank
Cam timing is the valves

A compression test will tell you if crank/cam are in time, expected is 150+psi per cylinder
COLD engine, remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder first, then test

If all are under 130psi then timing belt is off
 
A compression test will tell you if crank/cam are in time, expected is 150+psi per cylinder
COLD engine, remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder first, then test

If all are under 130psi then timing belt is off
Did a compression test last night. Cylinder 1 was at 160, 2 was at 155, 3 180,4 170. I also found that one port on my coil pack isn’t sparking the other 3 work could that be my issue?
 
1 and 2 on compression test are troublesome, 170 and 180psi is average 175psi putting 155psi out of 10% expected range
And 160 with 155 next store could mean head gasket breach between the two, but wild guess

Yes, would be odd not to have a Code for that but no spark would cause a misfire of course
 
It really depends on what the other coil pack is doing, I had a misfire on my '97, all the plugs and wires were original (at like 150k miles), one plug wire had backed out at the coil pack and burnt out the connector on that end of the coil (like all through the metal socket down there and through the side of the plastic the plug wire clips to), it drove just fine just a random misfire code...

I would be suspect on the head gasket too, a leak down test would tell more, if any air is getting through to the next cylinder with both plugs out that would tell you.
 
It really depends on what the other coil pack is doing, I had a misfire on my '97, all the plugs and wires were original (at like 150k miles), one plug wire had backed out at the coil pack and burnt out the connector on that end of the coil (like all through the metal socket down there and through the side of the plastic the plug wire clips to), it drove just fine just a random misfire code...

I would be suspect on the head gasket too, a leak down test would tell more, if any air is getting through to the next cylinder with both plugs out that would tell you.
both packs have less than 10000 miles also sense new packs have done wires and plugs
 
I would recommend doing a leak down test, for $30 it could tell you some things. Ideally you put 100psi air to the cylinder at TDC at the first gauge, look what the second gauge reads, should be 90psi or better (but a little more might not be the end of the world, depends on what all of them do, kinda like a compression test), also listen to where the air is going IE the next cylinder, oil fill cap, exhaust pipe, radiator or intake which should cover all the options of where it's going.
 

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