Starting/firing problems with grinding/weird noises!

[usaf089]

Hey everyone, new to the site and to Rangers. Picked my first one up yesterday. 95 4cyl 5 speed. I traded a kayak and a .22 auto for it lol. The guy said the only thing wrong was maybe the starter. Said it would turn over and start just run with a grinding noise like the starter would stay engaged. (It had set for about 3 months when I got it)

I put a battery in it, got it to turn over. Making weird grinding/spinning sound. Tried some shims on the starter against the bell housing to space it out, still the same thing. When I finally got it to run for a minute before it died, I let out the clutch a little (it was in neutral) and it seemed to make it almost worse?

I'm going to change the transmission fluid in it today, and also have the starter tested.

I've done some research here on the forum but haven't found anything exact yet to try. One person said the wires on his starter or solenoid was backwards? I took some pictures if I can figure out how to upload them.

Also, totally off the main subject, the o2 sensors (I'm guessing) on the exhaust.. the wires have been cut on one and the other is not plugged in. And on the transmission there was a little nipple that had a cap that was off, I put the cap back on it but not sure what it was for or does.

Sorry for the long post, I'll get pictures uploaded soon as I can. Thanks much!

 

[usaf089]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=6CeHBS6y5AY

Made a video of what it's doing, any suggestions from this? I found something else on here from a guy that had a Mazda that he had the same problem but it turned out to be some plug wires crossed causing the issue? That made it out of sync/timing was off?

 

[hoosier1104]

It is not your start for sure. It turns the motor with no problem. I would check the firing order on your coil packs and make sure they go to the correct position. Before that though I would look at getting your coil packs checked.

 

[usaf089]

It is not your start for sure. It turns the motor with no problem. I would check the firing order on your coil packs and make sure they go to the correct position. Before that though I would look at getting your coil packs checked.

Ok, thank! What's the best way to check the coil packs? How exactly would I go about checking them I mean? I've found tests for everything but the 2.3 I think.

 

[usaf089]

Update... sound seems to almost come from the clutch... Would this be a possibility?

 

[hoosier1104]

It could not be completely disengaging the flywheel but I am not 100% sure on that one.

 

[usaf089]

Ok, well I think I am going to put a new clutch in it soon, I'm sure that def wont hurt anything. I am going to replace the slave cylinder (I'm just throwing words out there, I am a beginner mechanic, I really don't know too much) it seemed pretty easy to do from a video I watched. (Slave, not the clutch lol) but is there anything else I should replace while I have it torn apart?

Found an awesome video on youtube on replacing the clutch, but if anyone has any others I want to watch a few more good ones before I jump the gun.

Thanks!

 

[tomw]

If you take it apart enough to replace the slave cylinder AND throw out bearing(likely to make noises if dry of grease or lube), replacing the pressure plate and clutch disk is only about 8 bolts more, all visible screwed into the face of the flywheel. Right there in front of your. Also, don't forget to check the pilot bearing or bushing for dry or worn needles, depending. Again, right there in front of you pressed into the center of the crankshaft.
If you decide to replace the friction, you can go cheap, and just replace the disk, or go whole hog, and replace the disk, pressure plate, have the flywheel surfaced, and replace the TOB assembly.(complete with hydraulic slave cylinder). The slave & master & piping seems to be a problem when you try to bleed out the air bubbles, but it can be done.
tom

 

[usaf089]

If you take it apart enough to replace the slave cylinder AND throw out bearing(likely to make noises if dry of grease or lube), replacing the pressure plate and clutch disk is only about 8 bolts more, all visible screwed into the face of the flywheel. Right there in front of your. Also, don't forget to check the pilot bearing or bushing for dry or worn needles, depending. Again, right there in front of you pressed into the center of the crankshaft.
If you decide to replace the friction, you can go cheap, and just replace the disk, or go whole hog, and replace the disk, pressure plate, have the flywheel surfaced, and replace the TOB assembly.(complete with hydraulic slave cylinder). The slave & master & piping seems to be a problem when you try to bleed out the air bubbles, but it can be done.
tom

The throw out bearing is attached/part of the slave cylinder correct? I know I plan on replacing the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and slave cylinder. From what I've seen of the flywheel its fine, but I may have something done with it to. I think I'm clear on everything except maybe understanding some of the parts. What's the difference between the master cylinder and slave? Is the "master" just the clutch? Sorry if that's a little obvious, I'm no mechanic really, woodworking and flying is my thing but I'm learning. And if I'm taking this on by myself I want a good understanding of what things are lol. Thanks!

 

[hoosier1104]

Take it to the hobby shop on base. I pretty sure someone would help you.

 

[usaf089]

Take it to the hobby shop on base. I pretty sure someone would help you.

I was thinking about maybe doing that, I have someone who said they would help me but I didn't really want to bug him too much with it lol. I think putting the transmission back in myself would be the hardest honestly.

 

[hoosier1104]

The only way to learn is to ask question and ask for help when needed.

AF up and ask for help.

 

[usaf089]

The only way to learn is to ask question and ask for help when needed.

AF up and ask for help.

True story.

Haha yes sir, that won't hurt anything for sure. The transmission is going to be easier than I thought though, one of the top bolts is already out and the other was only hand tight. Score!!

 

[Mark_88]

True story.

Haha yes sir, that won't hurt anything for sure. The transmission is going to be easier than I thought though, one of the top bolts is already out and the other was only hand tight. Score!!

Are you sure the others are not loose also? Could be that they just need to be tightened up...

I had a shop replace my clutch once while they dropped in a replacemnent block...when I got the truck back it was grinding like crazy...turned out they didn't tighten the starter properly...fortunately I didn't chew up the starter because of their carelessness...

Give the transmission a few wiggles to see if it flexes from the engine...if that's even possible...lol

 

[usaf089]

Are you sure the others are not loose also? Could be that they just need to be tightened up...

I had a shop replace my clutch once while they dropped in a replacemnent block...when I got the truck back it was grinding like crazy...turned out they didn't tighten the starter properly...fortunately I didn't chew up the starter because of their carelessness...

Give the transmission a few wiggles to see if it flexes from the engine...if that's even possible...lol

Yes sir, I checked the others. I have had them soaking in PB blaster hoping they won't break on me. I really cranked on the starter just to be sure but didn't want to break that aluminum.

I'm excited about yanking this thing off, I had knee surgery a month ago, I probably shouldn't be doing all of this but I want to get it going lol.