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standard transmission removal- troubles & tips


93ranger-redline1

New Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2012
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Hi to all, I have a 1993 ranger, 4.0l 5speed 2wd standard cab truck. My clutch slave has just failed on me at a rather crummy time to have a truck down, I am 85% of the way through a move. Some of my tools are at the new house, some at the old, and some in boxes.
First- a few tips to share-
When removing your trans- remove the upper middle bellhousing bolts before you lift the truck- it will be easier to reach them. Mine were easy to remove by holding the bolt heads with a 1/2" wrench (box head) and linking a 3/4"wrench to the open end of the 1/2" wrench for the extra torque. Once you break them loose, a 1/4 drive ratchet should have room to spin them out.
The shifter comes out by removing the nut, installing it on the opposite side of the stud, and tightening it to draw the stud out. Then lift shifter straight out.
After removing your shifter, removing the part secured by 3 torx screws will give you more clearance later when removing your trans.
When you remove your hydraulic slave line and speedo connection, cover the parts with small plastic bags zap strapped in place to keep things clean.
Now for the troubles-
My exhaust bolts are solid rust and super tight. I couldn't turn them with my breaker bar and am now trying to remove the trans with the exhaust intact. The trans is now loose in the truck and I just can't get it out. Does anyone have any tips on how to get the trans out? I have tried shaking, pulling, and twisting to no avail. I have done several clutch jobs in the past, but this truck just lacks the clearance I need. Why does Ford use these slave cyl's rather than the external style which makes for a quick/simple fix?
 
Majority of manufacturers are actually switching to an internal slave for "longevity" and "keeping it out of the elements", honestly, I'd rather replace an external slave that fails every year due to salt than an internal one that fails every year due to just general shit.

But the only way around removing that Y pipe is to lift the cab a little bit.
 
Is lifting the cab a relatively simple task or does it become a major PITA?
 
Majority of manufacturers are actually switching to an internal slave for "longevity" and "keeping it out of the elements", honestly, I'd rather replace an external slave that fails every year due to salt than an internal one that fails every year due to just general shit.

But the only way around removing that Y pipe is to lift the cab a little bit.

I hear that, gimmie an external any day. If you have a 4x4 and have to deal with the driveshafts and transfer case its a whole new hell...

Try this also before you lift the cab...

Get your PB and soak the nuts nice and good. Have a beer while they soak. Then give a nice good blast with a propane torch, you wanna see color on em before you stop. Now let them cool a bit but while still hot (too hot to touch with your hands) give them another whack with the breaker bar. I used my foot and kicked em off.
 

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