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Spark Plug change gone wrong :(


Well get this! i went to a local shop to get the plugs changed mind you that i bought the plugs and wires my self! they were going to charge me 89.99 to change them and i purchased the stuff! i was like F, that ill just do it myself..... then this happend
 
that sucks! Well $89 doesn't sound too terrible for labor. I think I will take mine to my Mechanic. I just don't want to screw around with the intake manifold at all. I will have to call him and see how much.
By the way- which plug and wires would anyone recommend for 97 2.3L?
I saw someone had posted they were having problems with their 2.3 and the E3 plugs (which is the exact plug I was planning on getting) something about double tip plugs or something...well anyway- all suggestions welcomed! Sorry if I hi jacked the post.
 
Any low resistance wires will work fine and just stick to stock motorcraft or autolite single platinum plugs. Those expensive plugs have little or no effect to performance and usually foul out quicker. Just my 2cents and always put a new PCV in when changing plugs.
 
If you can rent/purchase a small borescope most come with a magnet attachment. You could use that to pull the debris out of the cylinder and also see what it's like inside there.
 
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OK guys, me and my dad are going to attempt to take the intake and head off ourselves. Does anybody know all the torque specs for the top end?
 
OK me and my dad started dissembling the engine yesterday to get the head off. Well we have run into some problems.

1st is that we cannot find all the bolts to the AC/Power steering pump bracket to take it off, does anyone have an idea or picture of the bracket that shows were all the bolts are located.

2nd is that we cannot get the exhaust manifold off. we have tried penetrating oil but the bolts will not BUDGE! will i have to cut then and then redrill them out?
 
If you can take the head with the manifold you will be able to work on the y-pipe studs while the manifold is off, in the event they break.
 
If you can take the head with the manifold you will be able to work on the y-pipe studs while the manifold is off, in the event they break.

+1 don't twist off the exhaust mainfold bolts...just unbolt the y-pipe....even if you twist those y-pipe bolts/studs off, it'll be a lot easier to replace them on a work bench..
 
dang ive never had any problems with changing plugs. maybe im just lucky. yall got me worried now about changing plugs lol. mine come out alot tho to read them
 
OK guys, me and my dad are going to attempt to take the intake and head off ourselves. Does anybody know all the torque specs for the top end?

I have access to them.

I'll get you hooked up with the torque specs then.
 
ok i got torque specs from the TRS tech library, We got the head off and got the leftover metal from the spark plug (Which was a 1 inch rod from the core of the spark plug) then i took a wire wheel and cleaned the tops of the pistols, block, intake, and head. this side looks BRAND NEW lol! we got the head and intake back on but our worse disaster today was the AC unit had to be removed to get the bracket off the head :( ALL the freon came out so now i have to have it recharged one we get it all sealed back up. i say a couple more days of 2-4hour work, and it should run fine.

Thanks TRS for the help! i will keep you posted. here is a pic from today before we cleaned

1212001157.jpg
 
The key is to seal off the ends of the a/c lines so you dont let any moisture in and have a reputable a/c tech evacuate the system properly and put the factory charge back in unless you have a guage set and vacuum pump. it is important to get some refrigerant back in as soon as possible to protect the compressor you can top it off in the summer but it will kick on when you turn the defroster on unless you unplug the compressor clutch wire. I`m glad you didnt damage the cylinder or piston. If you end up with extra bolts they always give you too many anyway. he he
 
Yea im happy! i just hope it runs, is there anything special i have to do with the rockers and push rods? i just slid the push rods back down into the lifters and bolted the rockers back down to the head, I know on a chevy you have to adjust them but my father said on a ford you just bolt them all the way down and it will adjust itself?
 
did it end up bending any of the valves? or is everything good?
 
did it end up bending any of the valves? or is everything good?

No bent valves, it just mades some VERY small pits but that doesnt hurt anything, they look like small scratches. after i used the wire wheel on the piston and head you can't even tell there was anything in there! it looks brand new!
 

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