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Someone tell me im wrong.. please


I don't think removing the front axle helps. The issue is the engine crossmember. Engine has to be lifted quite a ways to get the pan out. Easier to pull it completely than to lift it and hold it 4 or 5 inches higher than it's normal position.
Believe me, it could be much worse...

It's way more common for the valve cover gasket to leak than the oil pan gasket, and as the valve cover gaskets age they shrink and the bolts get loose, same with the oil pan bolts. Get yourself a 1/4" ratchet, about a foot of extensions and a 8mm or 5/16" socket and go to tightening all the valve cover bolts and oil pan bolts you can see, don't go bonkers, spec is around 5lbft of torque on the bolts. I'm pretty sure it's doable with the engine in the rig by just lifting it as much as you can but I don't think I'd try... There's no way to screw up the oil pan gasket when doing a timing belt unless they messed with the front cover which isn't needed, by the way, tighten those bolts too, they go forward...
Yeah that doesn't make alot of sense when you think about the oil pan gasket deal but honestly It wouldn't have surprised me if it was true bc some of the way ford built some vehicles so I immediately thought the worst bc of working on my truck since I've had it and it began with the stupidity of the entire clutch system from the master to the slave is a horrible design when other makers mounted the slave on the outside of trans pull 4 bolts it's basically replaced ford went a different route there .. then the master is mounted at a angle and can't bleed the system 100% because of it basically got to remove it and bench bleed it and it just doesn't make sense some stuff they did and made it alot more complicated than need be basically so most people won't be able to fix stuff their self so have to pay someone 85/hour to get it fixed . Which is ok if you can pay that but some can't. There are just certain things on a vehicle a person can do their self. They build them like that on purpose and it's way worse now be lucky if you can check your own fluids. I'm not a huge fan of one maker over the other really but since I bought this ranger i have developed a little bit of hate for ford and everything they put out except my little shit box ranger I like for some weird reason I don't wanna give up on it lol no clue why honestly but im gonna keep giving it some love for now anyway.. appreciate the input and one guy mentioned the pcv valve and I'm pretty sure he got it right because the way it's acting. Im gonna check her out tomorrow and hope for the best. The way it's blowing oil out was a new one for me unless it threw a rod but that don't go but one way really and you now something went terrible wrong if that goes down for sure
 
Timing belt has zero to do with oiled parts. It's like changing the serpentine belt. How'd the rear seal look when you did the slave cylinder?
 
You can replace the oil pan gasket on a 4 cylinder with the engine in the truck, BUT, the transmission has to be removed and it's a very tight fit. That's how I did it years ago. I would suggest you look elsewhere for your oil leak first though as almost everyone else said.

No need to go off about how you don't like stupid designs. I am guessing you have never done a timing belt on a PT Cruiser or an alternator on a Mystique. Simple tasks always seem insurmountable to those with few skills or tools... it is simply a waste of time to complain.
 
Holy cow, the pt cruiser timing belt. I farmed that one out to a buddy who thought it wasn't bad since he had a neon and had just done that one. He said dont ask him next time, ha ha ha
 
Starter went on my S-10 Blazer with 4.3. I'd changed a number of starters so bought new one and went to install.. GM designers cut hole in frame rail to fit it inside - engine needed to be rotated and lifted to replace it. Local garage quoted an hour from the book, so I farmed it out. They didn't make any profit on that one...
 

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