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Snot and other problems


akx.

Active Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
27
City
Mountain View, CA
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
Hi all. So I got my 87 ranger knowing it would be a project, but man are there a lot of things wrong with it. There is an incredible amount of "snot" buildup on the inside of the oilcap. I always wipe it off when I check my oil but it always comes back a couple days later.

The other major issue is that the 1st cylinder isn't firing. I replaced the whole ignition system when I got it and the spark plug in cylinder 1 looks the same as the day I got it. I don't know if the injectors bad, or not plugged in or if there's a problem with the computer... Anyone have any thoughts?
 
I can answer the snot. That is normal condensation. Some climates and times of the year cause more of it than others. Once you get it to work and actually drive her a hundred miles or more all that crap will evaporate and dissapear. Around here in Austin we rarely see any of it.
Big Jim
 
Have you tried some sea foam through it? I would try that to clean out the injectors.
 
Hi all. So I got my 87 ranger knowing it would be a project, but man are there a lot of things wrong with it. There is an incredible amount of "snot" buildup on the inside of the oilcap. I always wipe it off when I check my oil but it always comes back a couple days later.

The other major issue is that the 1st cylinder isn't firing. I replaced the whole ignition system when I got it and the spark plug in cylinder 1 looks the same as the day I got it. I don't know if the injectors bad, or not plugged in or if there's a problem with the computer... Anyone have any thoughts?

How many miles are on the new plugs/ignition system??

how often does this "snot" appear??
I get this too...BUT...I short trip it, (less than 5 miles one way to work , soo it really don't get warmed up fully) ...IF I drive more than that...the snot disappears....and it happens primarily in the winter.

the #1 cylinder...have you pulled the plug out and confirmed that no spark is getting to the plug?? insert plug into the plug wire and hold against manifold (make sure you're on the insulation, not the plug )...should see a nice spark.

the 1 clean plug/new looking plug....hints of cracked head...or coolant washing the plug clean. Hence my 1st question.
 
The #1 plug sparks and doesn't look washed. I checked the injector wiring and it all seems good so I'm pretty sure the injector's clogged. I've run a couple cleaners through and no change.

I changed the plugs & all last year so at least 1k miles... Maybe even 2 or 3. At this point I want to rebuild my injectors. I already pulled 6 out of a bronco ii.

Where's the best place to order o rings, filters and everything else I need for an injector rebuild?

And one unrelated question: is there a way to tell if my 2.9 came with the cylinder heads with a known problem for cracking? Is it possible that my '87 dodged that problem?

Thanks! -akx
 
Are you losing any coolant? I had a cracked when I found an "incredible amount of "snot" buildup" under my oil cap. There was a layer of this goop under the valve covers, on the top the heads, etc. was a mess. I knew it was the problem since I was losing coolant though, and it definitely wasn't an external leak..
 
And one unrelated question: is there a way to tell if my 2.9 came with the cylinder heads with a known problem for cracking? Is it possible that my '87 dodged that problem?

Thanks! -akx

I think the beefier heads were started in '89. There's some pics in the tech section that show how you can tell the difference between the older and newer ones.
 
Are you losing any coolant? I had a cracked when I found an "incredible amount of "snot" buildup" under my oil cap. There was a layer of this goop under the valve covers, on the top the heads, etc. was a mess. I knew it was the problem since I was losing coolant though, and it definitely wasn't an external leak..

I have been losing some coolant... The poor old truck is leaking out of multiple places so it's hard to tell if the coolant is external. I ran a compression test and a leakdown test and it seemed to do fine on both. Shouldn't that mean it's not cracked heads?
 
There are a couple places other than heads you can be getting water in the oil intake manifold and timing cover I still get it off and on I plan on sealing the timing cover this summer. I figure it can`t hurt and putting a new water pump at the same time for sh*%s and giggles they are not very expensive. If that don`t stop the small leak then I will consider doing the heads but not too conserned the oil is not milky. If you have good compression and spark on #1 it has to be the injector or the wires to it if it is getting a signal your better off replacing all of them since you have already cleaned the fuel system. Might as well make them even.
http://cgi.ebay.com/87-88-89-90-91-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item414f22896a
 
I think the beefier heads were started in '89. There's some pics in the tech section that show how you can tell the difference between the older and newer ones.

Think they were more common in '91-'92, but definitely make sure to know what you're looking at so that you know you're not buying the worse heads, but I think best bet would probably be aftermarket since they're going so cheap.

I have been losing some coolant... The poor old truck is leaking out of multiple places so it's hard to tell if the coolant is external. I ran a compression test and a leakdown test and it seemed to do fine on both. Shouldn't that mean it's not cracked heads?

I didn't look to see where mine cracked, but apparently it can happen on top of the head near the rocker pedestal mount. So this wouldn't show on a leak down or compression test. It would show on a pressure test on the cooling system, but you'd already know it wouldn't hold since it has a slow leak. Check your oil for coolant for sure, that stuff will kill you bearings if this is the case. Reason I rebuilt mine in the first place, lost oil pressure from just letting it go.

Hard to say yes, or no. But if you have coolant in the oil, there is definitely something wrong.
 
Hard to say yes, or no. But if you have coolant in the oil, there is definitely something wrong.

when I changed my oil a few months ago it was dark, not milky. So... No coolant in the oil?

And I'd like to rebuild my own injectors... Any good sites to buy what I need?
 
Hi all. So I got my 87 ranger knowing it would be a project, but man are there a lot of things wrong with it. There is an incredible amount of "snot" buildup on the inside of the oilcap. I always wipe it off when I check my oil but it always comes back a couple days later.

Yeah, I had that too. Figured it had something to do with cool damp weather and not driving it very far, if at all.
 
Bump - Any good sites to buy what i need to rebuild my injectors? I looked at rockauto and wasn't sure whati needed.
 
if a cylinder wasnt firing, you would notice a bad vibration or shudder at low RPMs. you are loosing coolant into your cylinder and it turns to steam and steam cleans the entire cylinder and spark plug. its a tell tale sign, unfortunately. the snot is just icing on the cake. you need to check your dipstick daily for 'bubbles' which arent air bubbles, but coolant bubbles. if you get that, or milky snot you have big problems. you need to drain the oil, drain the coolant, refill with oil and wait till the engine cools down. start the engine for ONLY 15-20 seconds to flush out the water/oil mix and drain the oil again. that will get the water out of your bearings and save the motor. its very important. its looking like you have a cracked head, unfortunately. compression test and leakdown tests can be misleading, because when the engine gets hot, the coolant pressurizes and heats up and can inject into the intake or combustion chambers. you can tell if you have the good heads or bad heads by taking the valve covers off and looking at the rocker arm pedestals and if they are rectangular or oval shaped.

good luck, man. if you are a very lucky its just a bad head gasket, but taking the head off and retorquing it is known to make them crack.

sorry. its the downfall of an otherwise fine motor.
 

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