txarmysgt
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 24
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Transmission
- Manual
** Mods be advised I posted a similar thread in the general discussions forum but figured this would be a better venue. If you want to give one the axe let it be the one in general discussions please. Thanks!**
Folks I bought this little turd box less then a month ago for 700 bucks. This is my first time under the hood of a RBV sporting a 2.3 so if this has already been done, laugh at me, call me newbie, and poke fun at my wannabe Ranger okay?
I'm currently overhauling the front of my engine and doing a bunch of other maintenance that you can imagine might be needed for a 1996 Minnesota truck (rust anyone?). When I had reached the point that I was ready to take the timing belt off, I scratched my head looking for a way to wedge a big screwdriver (the only thing I had on-hand at the time) to release the tension without scratching things up or possibly breaking something. I didn't feel comfortable prying it at all so I looked for another solution.
I noticed a bolt hole in the block right behind the tensioner which was open after removing the mounting bracket for the power steering pump / ac compressor. there is about a half inch or so gap in the rear timing cover where the tensioner is mounted and the right edge of the tensioner overhangs the face of the engine block right at that spot. I looked for a short bolt, with a big head and grabbed one off the power steering pump which I had zip-tied out of the way. The bolt fit nicely but the head was not quite big enough to catch the edge of the tensioner, so I looked for a washer that was big enough and strong enough for the task.
I already had the crank pulley off so I grabbed the washer for it. I loosened the bolts for the tensioner just a little and put my bolt and washer in the hole behind the tensioner. I kept the washer tucked under the backside of the rear timing cover and butted up against the edge of the tensioner until I got it hand tight and put a socket wrench on it. a few turns and the belt went slack.
The bolt and washer can stay there as long as you like. you wont need them until you have the new belt installed anyhow, so no need to hold back tension with one hand and tighten the adjusting bolt to hold the tensioner with the other. Doing two things at once is way too complicated for a guy like me so I liked this method quite a bit. I am replacing my tensioner as well and I couldn't find a kit that had a new spring so this method should work very nicely when I'm ready to reassemble and I wont be fighting tension and trying to thread the adjusting bolt into the block at the same time.
The explanation for how I thought of doing this might make it seem like a lot to do but it's not at all if you know beforehand. Just grab a bolt and washer you will definitely have on hand and put it in a hole. done. I took pictures when I first took the belt off but I think this one illustrates it best. I have a few things left to do before I am ready to reassemble and I intend to use this method when I install the new parts, so I'll update this thread with some pics of everything together.
http://therangerstation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13808&d=1397236203
I already attached the pic in another thread so I can't here. Anyhow it's very simple, works really well and I figured it might help someone out. Happy wrenching!
Folks I bought this little turd box less then a month ago for 700 bucks. This is my first time under the hood of a RBV sporting a 2.3 so if this has already been done, laugh at me, call me newbie, and poke fun at my wannabe Ranger okay?
I'm currently overhauling the front of my engine and doing a bunch of other maintenance that you can imagine might be needed for a 1996 Minnesota truck (rust anyone?). When I had reached the point that I was ready to take the timing belt off, I scratched my head looking for a way to wedge a big screwdriver (the only thing I had on-hand at the time) to release the tension without scratching things up or possibly breaking something. I didn't feel comfortable prying it at all so I looked for another solution.
I noticed a bolt hole in the block right behind the tensioner which was open after removing the mounting bracket for the power steering pump / ac compressor. there is about a half inch or so gap in the rear timing cover where the tensioner is mounted and the right edge of the tensioner overhangs the face of the engine block right at that spot. I looked for a short bolt, with a big head and grabbed one off the power steering pump which I had zip-tied out of the way. The bolt fit nicely but the head was not quite big enough to catch the edge of the tensioner, so I looked for a washer that was big enough and strong enough for the task.
I already had the crank pulley off so I grabbed the washer for it. I loosened the bolts for the tensioner just a little and put my bolt and washer in the hole behind the tensioner. I kept the washer tucked under the backside of the rear timing cover and butted up against the edge of the tensioner until I got it hand tight and put a socket wrench on it. a few turns and the belt went slack.
The bolt and washer can stay there as long as you like. you wont need them until you have the new belt installed anyhow, so no need to hold back tension with one hand and tighten the adjusting bolt to hold the tensioner with the other. Doing two things at once is way too complicated for a guy like me so I liked this method quite a bit. I am replacing my tensioner as well and I couldn't find a kit that had a new spring so this method should work very nicely when I'm ready to reassemble and I wont be fighting tension and trying to thread the adjusting bolt into the block at the same time.
The explanation for how I thought of doing this might make it seem like a lot to do but it's not at all if you know beforehand. Just grab a bolt and washer you will definitely have on hand and put it in a hole. done. I took pictures when I first took the belt off but I think this one illustrates it best. I have a few things left to do before I am ready to reassemble and I intend to use this method when I install the new parts, so I'll update this thread with some pics of everything together.
http://therangerstation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13808&d=1397236203
I already attached the pic in another thread so I can't here. Anyhow it's very simple, works really well and I figured it might help someone out. Happy wrenching!