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Same 97 ranger, same mysterious problem, new thread


When it does run is it hard to rev/takes long to rev without load on it? One thing I noticed that was left out of your list is coil packs. I've seen similar symptoms (in person, not from descriptions, which makes this a bit harder) that have ended up being a bad coil pack. Because you have a dual plug head, if you want a quick, easy way to see if it is the coil packs, take the two coil packs and switch them around and see if it clears up. It won't garantee results if the coil packs are bad, but if the main coil pack is bad and the secondary one is good, the problem usually becomes a bit better. Also, make sure if you switch them around to check to makes sure that they have good grounds, as they are grounded through the mounting screws into the coil brackets.

Hope this helps.
 
Well I think it's timing. I pulled the timing cover off (much more difficult with the engine in the truck...) and found that when the cam is on its mark and cylinder #1 is TDC, the oil pump pulley is off by 1 tooth. (I cannot see the crank mark, because I don't have a puller for the balancer). All the marks were correct when the engine went in, so it has to have skipped a tooth. I'm guessing that the tension spring is old and not keeping proper tension.

So I guess that I'm going to order a new spring and look for a puller to borrow. Fortunately the 2.3 Lima is non-interference, so I didn't damage anything

Thanks again, I'll update as I learn more.
 
If the timing jumped a tooth it would not be a once in a while problem.It would be a constant problem.have you checked the crankshaft position sensor? that will affect the timing.
 
I've not checked that yet, no. How would I test the sensor?

The timing has definitely skipped a tooth (or more) which explains why it is getting worse. It also seems to get worse once the engine warms up, which I assume means the computer is trying to adjust timing but cannot get it correct due to the incorrect base.

I'm not saying it's the ONLY problem, but it's definitely one problem that needs to be corrected.
 
Being that you have a 95+ ranger, the oil pump sprocket being off a tooth is a big deal. the cam sensor reads off the oil pump shaft assembly. definitely could be causing a problem. get that taken care of and try cleaning the MAF. I have a feeling the o2 codes are being caused by a dirty/faulty MAF. Seen it multiple times on rangers. Or it's possible the o2 sensors are malfunctioning due to improper fuel injection synchronization since the cam sensor isn't reading correctly. Address the timing issue first and let us know!

good luck!
 
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I should totally be asleep right now, but this idea just struck me.

The Cam position sensor is operated by the oil pump shaft. This is where I know the belt is incorrectly timed. I had to stop today because I did not have the tools needed to pull the harmonic balancer pulley, which covers the crank's timing mark.

But:
Can I just rotate cylinder #1 to TDC (which should then set the crank to its correct mark)
Then set the cam pulley onto its timing marks
Then align the oil pump to its correct mark
and slap the belt onto the the assembly?

I don't need to replace the belt, so why mess with removing the crank bolts? This SHOULD be correct right?
 
I should totally be asleep right now, but this idea just struck me.

The Cam position sensor is operated by the oil pump shaft. This is where I know the belt is incorrectly timed. I had to stop today because I did not have the tools needed to pull the harmonic balancer pulley, which covers the crank's timing mark.

But:
Can I just rotate cylinder #1 to TDC (which should then set the crank to its correct mark)
Then set the cam pulley onto its timing marks
Then align the oil pump to its correct mark
and slap the belt onto the the assembly?

I don't need to replace the belt, so why mess with removing the crank bolts? This SHOULD be correct right?

just put the crank at 12:00 and line up the oil pump and the camshaft.....you don't need to pull the harmonic balancer if you are not repalcing the belt
 
How can I tell if the crank is at 12:00? Would that just be Cylinder #1 TDC?

there is a keyhole on the crank and a mark to match it up with at 12:00......then just line up the cam and oil pump............don't forget that if the cam mark looks a little off it could need to be spun 180 degrees.......I am not sure if you your belt broke or what?
 
It looks like the tensioner spring was old and no longer up to the task. The belt seems to have skipped a tooth or so.

Is it possible to find the keyhole-or cog without removing the pulley from the crank?
 
just use the timing marks on the cover. don't worry about finding the keyway. Do like you had planned and everything will be fine. if it were me, id get everything as close to set before i took the belt off. then just turn that oil pump sprocket till it's lined up, replace the tensioner and bolt it all back up.

Another thing is make sure that timing belt is in good shape. you're allready this deep into it. if the belt is questionable, take the extra time and replace it. If it were me i'd just replace it anyways for piece of mind.
 
Ive had many of the same problems. I dont know if your motor is anything like mine, but my issue was mostly my DIS module. After replacing it, I got better mpg's, more power, and a little better idle. Still not great but way better.
BUT... 2 things, first, check to see your voltage coming from your module and make sure it is rightous. Also, Buy Motorcraft ONLY! this last tip will save you lots of greif and work. Just trust me on this!
I dont know if this helps or even if you have an ignition module, but it sounds exactly like my probs recently.
 
the ignition control module causes a lot of problems, but he has a 97, which doesnt have an ICM he's got other problems. I think he's on the right track with the timing issue.
 
I would still check the timing. Even a new belt can slip a cog or 2-3!!
 

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