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rough starting problem


BigD74

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
16
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
I have 99 ranger 3.0 manual 4x4. I locked the motor up tuesday. and luckily i had just bought a parts truck for the gears. so i put the new motor in (it has less than 30,000 miles) and it was really ruff starting at first. after it runs for about 15-30 seconds it smooths out. it only does this when it sits long enough for the motor to cool. it barely runs and on the long periods it takes several start and some pumping the pedal. some times it kicks code but not all the time. P0171 Bank 1 Lean and P0174 Bank 2 Lean. its got new oil and plugs. i doubt its the fuel pump. never had a problem with it before the motor blew. the motor came from a 98 with an auto. i had to switch my motor harness on it. i did reset the computer after i changed the motor. i have put about 50-100 miles on it since the swap. any help would be appreciated thanks
 
have you changed your fuel filter? then the next thing would be check for vacuum leaks
 
today it was constant not just start up. and i check for vacuum leaks. i'm going to try putting the mapp and tps and air temp sensor from my other motor.
 
Yeah use the stuff that you know worked and see if that clears it up, maybe you missed a connector or something when you put in the new motor. My dad put a new motor in his escort and had the same kind of problem, it was hunting for and idle tripping codes and running like crap and all it turned out to be was a loose connector at the ect plug, if you bump it it comes loose and runs like crap. Im not saying thats your same problem but its worth checking, just curious what caused your old motor to lock up and how many miles were on it?
 
Those lean codes for both banks point to leaking
intake manifold gaskets (on 4.0 engines).
I'd think the 3.0 would be the same....?

Might try snugging down the intake bolts and
see if that has any effect.
 
i think i have it fixed now. i'll know for sure when i start it in the morning to go to work. i found two problems. first the mapp sensor was different. second the fuel rails were different. the original motor had the fuel dampner under the coil pack and the new one had it on the front with the fuel line going into it. those vacuum lines run together and i didn't notice the end of it. so i had to switch the mapp and fuel rails. i ran it for 15 miles so far tonight with no problems. like i said tomorrow i'll know for sure. and i'm not sure why the other locked. i havent tore it apart yet. i wanted to get the new motor in and running good first. the original had 130,000 miles. i bought the truck with 115,000. and since i had it i used it like a truck. hauling sand and gravel a ton at a time (redoing side walks). and towing car hauler (run derby cars). i can update when i get a chance to see why it locked. the heavy use got to it finally? idk
 
and tose were stupid problems i shoulda noticed i know
 
Good to hear you figured it out:) When in doubt use the stuff you know works, before tearing the whole motor down just pull out the syncronizer and see if its missing teeth, that seems to be THE motor killer in these trucks and usually it seems to be around the miles you had on it.
 

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