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Rough Idle/Stalls


Pdunkk

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
Well first and foremost im about to run this truck into a lake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPWVrQvnI2k


So currently this is what my truck is doing, It's a 1998 Ford Ranger 2.5l 4Cyl Manual Trans.

Things i've done so far is new IAC, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs (all 8), water pump. Cleaned the EGR, and MAF, and it's still not getting any better.

I replaced my timing belt back in Nov 2012, and it's been running fine since this incident which happened back in November of last year, I pulled a Uhaul filled with appliances for maybe 5-10 miles then my truck wasn't having it anymore, it started bucking really bad, and I couldn't drive it. Over the course of the last week, I've been trying to set the timing, and finally got everything lined up today. The video is what its doing since I put the timing back in time. It may even be off a little, but im pretty sure it's not. but 1 tooth is 1 tooth, and it's the most tedious task.

So any insight on to what could actually fix this thing, would be greatly helpful.

Thanks dudes
 
I am curious as to what caused the bucking when pulling the load.
One minute just fine then it started bucking.

I didn't hear any backfiring so probably not bad fuel(water), although not off the table, did you get gas to pull the load?

Valve timing sets compression and fuel injector timing(oil pump gear) so is very important.

Sounds like computer is opening the IAC valve all the way for starting, initial high RPMs, then closing it as it should to set idle, but cold engine idle should be 1,100 or higher, and hard to tell with you moving the throttle but it sounded lower.
On the drivers side front of engine, below intake is the ECT sensor, this is the temp sensor the computer uses to tell it when to set cold idle and when to set warm engine idle(750), it is a 2 wire sensor screwed into a water passage, make sure it is plugged in.

Also unplug the Intake side coil, and start engine, only the exhaust side coil is used for starting, intake coil doesn't start working until rpms are above 500.
If you get a smoother idle then intake side firing order could be wrong
Or if you get a hard miss then exhaust side firing order is wrong
And as tedious as it is check firing order on the coils one more time.
 
I am curious as to what caused the bucking when pulling the load.
One minute just fine then it started bucking.

I didn't hear any backfiring so probably not bad fuel(water), although not off the table, did you get gas to pull the load?

Valve timing sets compression and fuel injector timing(oil pump gear) so is very important.

Sounds like computer is opening the IAC valve all the way for starting, initial high RPMs, then closing it as it should to set idle, but cold engine idle should be 1,100 or higher, and hard to tell with you moving the throttle but it sounded lower.
On the drivers side front of engine, below intake is the ECT sensor, this is the temp sensor the computer uses to tell it when to set cold idle and when to set warm engine idle(750), it is a 2 wire sensor screwed into a water passage, make sure it is plugged in.

Also unplug the Intake side coil, and start engine, only the exhaust side coil is used for starting, intake coil doesn't start working until rpms are above 500.
If you get a smoother idle then intake side firing order could be wrong
Or if you get a hard miss then exhaust side firing order is wrong
And as tedious as it is check firing order on the coils one more time.


I did get gas because I was going about 3 hours away, instead only made it 10 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPhoebQWehw

This was when it was bucking, I have no idea why or how it started doing this, but it no longer does it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtbSwT_7BNw

This is starting it with the intake coil unplugged.
 

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