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Right hand thread?


But I honestly do love those lima engines. I learned to drive manual on a Ranger with one, and I somehow didn't stall it once in the process.

It's kinda funny; the six trucks that I bought new back in the day were all 4-bangers, and every used truck that I've bought since are Colognes.

I don't want anything newer than a '94 (as I'm convinced that OBD2 is an instrument of The Devil), and I can't deal with a Vulcan because of the pointed ear thing. I prefer stock radios, and the only high tech I like, is AC and power windows.

I found my niche.
 
i really like those 4 bangers too. all my dad bought for the plumbing company trucks were 4 cylinder 5 speed rangers (and our one mazda). he said those were the most dependable and best gas mileage truck you could get for the work we did. he put a 3/4 pipe rack on every one of them, a 6 foot folding ladder, an extension ladder, a test kit, sawzall, pump, and gave each crew a truck. we drove those suckers 75-100k a year so every two to three years dad would buy another set of trucks. we only had one that something happened and hte engine lost compression and had to be towed in over the time i worked there and when i left, since my 98 mazda was at its mileage limit for a company truck, dad let me keep it when i got hired on base. that 98 had 325k miles when i took it home and still drove it for a while working on base. i only sold it because we had two kids and it was a single cab.


the reason i have the truck i have now is because i thought it was a 4 cylinder truck. i didn't even know rangers came with a small v6 versus the larger v6. my uncle decided he was going to give up his license so he asked my brother and i if we wanted the ranger he had just bought less than a year earlier. he said free, he just wanted one of us to have it. we both said yes but i said i didn't think we should take it for free because i its a very nice truck and i thought he should get back money for it. so he said come up with a number and thats fine. i gave him 3k for and still had never popped the hood. i had actually only driven it once and it felt just like the company trucks so i liked it. it wasn't till a while later my oldest son and i were looking at something and i commented that at idle, it kind of sounded like a small v8 or a v6, not a 4 cylinder. we popped the hood and sure enough, it was a 6. i had to google it because i didn't know what the 3.0 was, other than a 6 cylinder.

that led to why does it have torsion bars instead of springs and what rear diff and ratio does it have? so i learned that an edge was more than just some stickers and that i didn't have the same coil front suspension all the company trucks had, which was a bummer because i have had torsion suspension before.

anyways, back to this thread drift, the 4 cylinders are great trucks and the fan blade direction tells you which way the engine turns
 
As the picture shows, the fan would be spinning to the left to pull in air and if I turn the nut opposite I should be going right.

Is that correct?

IMG_20240430_123600086_HDR.jpg
 
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Ok. Thank you. Just making sure because that's opposite of what other people were saying.

I will try that today some more. It was not budging at all yesterday.
 
Ok. Thank you. Just making sure because that's opposite of what other people were saying.

I will try that today some more. It was not budging at all yesterday.

From the direction you are talking about in reference to the orientation of the picture, you want to turn the nut to the right.

From the orientation of you sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward, it would be to the left.
 
Any recommendations on how to stop the pulley from moving. The tension belt wasn't helping because the nut on the puller kept loosening up.

I am using the pneumatic clutch fan wrench from harbor freight.
 
Turn the nut counterclockwise. Fan spins the same direction.

I use an long air chisel to break them loose by lightly impacting the nut in the proper direction close to the fan to keep from distorting the nut.
 
Maybe one of those rubber strap wrenches? The accessory belt usually provides enough friction to hold the pully in place when you are trying to loosen the fan nut.

Have you soaked the nut and the shaft with a penetrating fluid? Sometimes you have to resort to heating the nut with a torch to break the rust bond as well.
 
Turn the nut counterclockwise. Fan spins the same direction.

I use an long air chisel to break them loose by lightly impacting the nut in the proper direction close to the fan to keep from distorting the nut.

Listen to what this guy is saying. I was having a brain fart.
 
to hold the pulley stick the short end of an allen wrench in the hole, place a long socket/extension on the long end and rotate the pulley until
it jams against the nut. helps to use something on the end of the extension to prevent it from twisting.
a bigger allen wrench works better.

the fan always comes off in the direction of rotation. that is the pulley screws into the nut during normal operation.
left or right doesn't matter, the pulley direction has to screw into the nut, if it screwed out the fan would fall off.
 
My son and I tried to the fan off his truck's 4.0 (Pulling engine as it's spun a rod bearing). We had Princess Auto wrench set holding the water pump, significant cheater bar and, both of us pulling and still couldn't get the thing to budge.
We gave up and up pulled the water pump.​

And yes, we were turning in the correct direction; we had the replacement engine there as reference (fan removed). Maybe should have tried heat...

We're still fighting the exhaust manifolds. We'll try heat there if it ever stops snowing, in the mean time they're soaking in penetrating oil...
 
Started soaking it in penetration fluid this morning and keep reapplying as the day goes on.
 
This is what I use:

I bet I have removed & installed dozens of fan clutches with that tool and never had one that I couldn't get off. I am NOT a fan of the air chisel method unless I simply do not care about reusing parts... great way to destroy the fan clutch nut or water pump bearings. Just speaking from experience there as I have had to clean up other people's chisel happy mess that they created.
 
I am NOT a fan of the air chisel method
There is a technique to it. You have to gently hammer the meaty part of the nut, not the barrel. Hammering the barrel will distort it and ruin the fan. Once it starts moving the fan usually spins right off.

I have the wrenches, but they are a pain in the _ss. The air chisel method has saved me a bunch of time over the years. Never ruined a fan (or a pump) but you do have to know what you are doing.
 

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