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Replacing the rubber plugs in a M50D-R1


arownious

Active Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Messages
33
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
I found in the Manual Transmission tech page that I have a M50D-R1, and that all three rubber plugs need to be replaced. I'm planning on changing out the tranny fluid any way and want to go ahead and replace those plugs when I do it. I was able to find the Dorman cup plug P/N 555-108 but not the Dana P/N 219-3052 plug.

My question is are we sure the Dorman is the right plug and if so how do you install it? Rockauto describes the part as a cylinder head plug, and Dorman itself doesn't show any Ford Ranger's as being able to use this thing. Also, it looks just like a rounded piece of steel. Does it have any threads on it? Or am I supposed to force this thing in the hole and hope I can remove it later? I'm really confused here.
 
The steel plug you use to replace the rubber plug is just that...a plug.

You pull out the rubber plug, and you will have a hole. You then hammer the steel plug into the hole, dome side first. I find it easiest to use a socket just smaller than the steel plug, to hammer it in. You are just plugging the hole...thats all. Here is picture to help you visualize it.


Same deal, he is just hammering the plug into the hole. Once it's flush, you stop.
ctrp_0811_10_z+freeze_plugs+installation.jpg
 
Makes sense, but is it replacing the drain plug or are these rubber plugs just some moronic invention?
 
Last edited:
Perhaps until you are clear on what you are doing, you shouldn't try it.

The drain plug and the rubber plugs are not related, do not interchange, and do not serve the same purpose.

The drain plug has threads, and is opened by a 3/8 drive ratchet. (I think it is 3/8, but a ratchet nonetheless.) The drain plug is at the bottom of the transmission. It is not replaced by or related to the rubber plugs in any way, other than keeping oil in.

The rubber plugs are at the rear of the shift rail housing on the top of the transmission. You may never have to remove them again, because they have nothing to do with changing the trans oil.

To get to the shift rail plugs, you will have to lower the rear of the transmission or remove it completely. Removing the trans gives easiest access. If you remove it completely, check the clutch wear and slave cylinder for leakage.
 
the last batch of dorman plugs were too loose and I returned them.

being blunt simply cleaning the plugs with solvent and RTV'ing them
in place is sufficient.

Do remember the plugs get a lot of misplaced blame, as they get bathed in oil leaking from the shifter that is directly above them.

the plugs are also the only "Vent" the transmission has... so sealing them completely creates other issues...

AD
 
That's what I did and they have held just fine for the past 50K miles.

Me too.
I also added a vent in the top plate that goes to a little reservoir.(an old RBV clutch reservoir to be specific.) I have heard that adding a Hurst shifter causes venting issues and tends to cause leaks around seals and flanges, so I did it in preparation for a Hurst shifter later.

-PlumCrazy
 
the hurst shifter sealls really well, my trans happens to have welch plugs in two of the three positions, but with the hurst shifter on there after running it on the highway and unbolting the shifter you can definatly tell that the trans can create an internal vacuum

pulling the shifter off created a great sucking sound...

it's sealed really well...

that's one thing the hurst cured... the shifter leak.

AD
 
I figured since I had the trans out it wouldnt get any easier, so I added a barb on the top plate. I have heard to many stories about the trannies springing leaks after a Hurst install.

1112091040a.jpg

I ran a hose up to the reservoir on the fire wall.

-PlumCrazy
 
I just sealed up my stock rubber plugs with gasket maker, I haven't ran the truck yet, but will this cause any problems?

As far a vent goes, how much fluid have you guys gotten In that hose? I would assume not much if any???
 

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