Replacing Brake Lines...what is this, how do I remove it?

[akulczycky]

I'm a "first time" mechanic, and I am working on fixing up my '97 Ranger, starting with replacing the front and rear brake lines with stainless steel tubing (b/c I never want to do it again!).

Initial Post

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58350

Anyhow, I've started to pull out the old line, and after an afternoon of struggling with rusted on bolts, I've managed to get to this point (Driver's Side - slow, I know, but I'm a rookie!)



First off, I don't know what it is (I'm guessing the hose, but not sure - was planning to pull it off and go to NAPA and ask the guy for "one of these"). Second, does it come off? and Third, if it does come off, how do I do it, because I think there's some clip which has now fused to the frame of the vehicle.

I saw this

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57021

and I'm assuming what I need to do is follow the same thing, but again, I'm not entirely sure.

I did buy one of the Chilton Manuals, and I'm bidding on a shop manual on ebay, but the Chilton wasn't too much of a help.

 

[martin]

It's the end of the flexible hose.

 

[akulczycky]

Okay, now, how do I get it off...it's rusted on pretty solid, and I broke half the retaining clip off trying to remove it...any suggestions?

 

[Tagg]

Just DID This !!!

I just purchased a 1996 Mazda B4000. The rear steel brake line was leaking above the rear axle where it connected to the rubber hose at the frame. Changed out the Steel line along the frame past the gas tank and upto the ABS pump. I purchased the parts from Advance Auto. They had the 3/16" tubing on a 25' roll. I duct taped the ends of the tubing ( to keep the dirt out ) after installing the proper fitting on it and then double flaring the tubing. Then I fed the tubing along the frame with the only connection being made at the ABS and the flex hose. I reattached the plastic mountings for the brake line along the frame. I then cutout the lines attached to the rear axle upto the wheel cylinders.
As I was pumping up and bleeding the wheel cylinders the front steel line to the left front brake caliper blew. Then, I just got hold of a cutoff grinder and did just that, Cutout all of the old steel lines from ABS pump to the front calipers and also the rubber hoses and only unbolting at the rear of the calipers. The best way to get the split clips off at the frame at the end of the rubber flex line is to use the cutoff grinder wheel and just cutoff at frame. Then taking a punch and hammer and punch out the fitting at the frame. Just need to be careful of the coil springs, Not much room to operate the 4" cutoff wheel in that space up to the frame fitting.
Replaced all lines within 4 hours by myself. Sorry for the long post, hope this helps. Its best to change everything if 1 line blows out. I want brakes when needed. Total cost for materials and parts ( steel brake lines and all 3 flex lines ) was just over $ 85.00 from Advance.
Biggest problem was using the double flare tool. They are very cheaply made , went thru 2 tools glad they are warranted. Advance also had the flat clips for the frame mounting of the hose line in stock.

 

[Mark_88]

To answer the "how to remove" the clip, it's pretty easy...they usually just slip around a ring on the flex line coupling and you can usually knock them out with a hammer and screw driver...after you remove the line attachment on the inside.

If you are replacing the entire brake line from the master down, then you have less to worry about. You should, in the process, replace those lines anyways, and it's a good idea to replace the flex lines on both sides.

It is not difficult to do brake lines...I did mine complete front and back last year and the only problems I ran in to were getting the proper fittings...and getting a splicer for the rear line because I bought sections instead of a roll of brake line...just take a piece of it to the store with you to compare when you buy parts to make sure you get the right size line and the proper fittings for the lines...

The master has two lines usually, and the fittings on those are NOT the same size (from my experience)...so take those with you too...

EDIT: Oh, and you might want to invest in a good flaring tool, a line cutter, and if you are so inclined...teflon tape...(I used it on all my line fittings, but some say you don't really need it)...

 

[AllanD]

DO UNDERSTAND that on an '89-97 Ranger that doesn't have 4WABS
the top end of the drivers side line IS the junction block that "splits" the line coming from the master cylinder to the two front brakes.

There should be another line screwed into the "back side" (the side the clip goes on)
of that line.

On the passenger side there will ONLY be the line into the back.
Be happy it's one less line end you have to flare.

Frankly I expect to destroy the clips and you should buy new
ones to go with the new hoses.

AD

 

[Mark_88]

DO UNDERSTAND that on an '89-97 Ranger that doesn't have 4WABS
the top end of the drivers side line IS the junction block that "splits" the line coming from the master cylinder to the two front brakes.

There should be another line screwed into the "back side" (the side the clip goes on)
of that line.

On the passenger side there will ONLY be the line into the back.
Be happy it's one less line end you have to flare.

Frankly I expect to destroy the clips and you should buy new
ones to go with the new hoses.

AD

Yeah, now I remember...the line from the master comes down to the junction box that splits the lines to the front brakes...and you only need a short piece from the flex line to the junction...but a long line from the passenger side...IIRC I bought a one foot and a four foot lenght to go to the junction box...and a two foot from the junction to the master...with an impressive bending job that I still admire every time i open the hood

Oh, and the flex hoses should come with new clips...but I used one of those open ended pin jobbys that some people use to keep their hoods closed with those hood pins...sorta like a bobby pin, but much bigger...it worked...still works...but I haven't hit any bumps with the front end to see if it will dislodge and leave the flex hose dangerously dangling...

 

[AllanD]

I specifically upgraded to the '89 style brake hose and line routing
while I was getting rid of my original "oddball" (86-02/87 calipers)
and had to buy new brake hoses anyway.

That was the first time I replaced the lines, unfortunatly it wasn't the last.

When I replaced them two years ago when I had the truck off it's frame
I replaced everything in stainless steel.
I don't expect to replace them again.

AD

 

[laclabb]

I'm a "first time" mechanic, and I am working on fixing up my '97 Ranger, starting with replacing the front and rear brake lines with stainless steel tubing (b/c I never want to do it again!).

Initial Post


Anyhow, I've started to pull out the old line, and after an afternoon of struggling with rusted on bolts, I've managed to get to this point (Driver's Side - slow, I know, but I'm a rookie!)



First off, I don't know what it is (I'm guessing the hose, but not sure - was planning to pull it off and go to NAPA and ask the guy for "one of these"). Second, does it come off? and Third, if it does come off, how do I do it, because I think there's some clip which has now fused to the frame of the vehicle.

I saw this



and I'm assuming what I need to do is follow the same thing, but again, I'm not entirely sure.

I did buy one of the Chilton Manuals, and I'm bidding on a shop brake line kits manual on ebay, but the Chilton wasn't too much of a help.

I am also in the process of replacing my stuffs as well. I just want to know where I could get some awesome brake line kits?

 

[Mark_88]

I am also in the process of replacing my stuffs as well. I just want to know where I could get some awesome brake line kits?

You should be able to find all brake parts locally...they are not usually special order...unless you are doing a lift and need extended lines...but those may also be available...

 

[CeltinWood]

Hello! New to the Ranger Station AND new to owning a ranger. My son, while we were having a garage sale, traded a snow blower and a table saw to a neighbor with an "un-used" 1997 4X4 regular cab Ranger - 3.0 five speed manual tranny. Good deal, I would say!

Anyway, it needs new brake lines.

We were looking for a service manual because my 16 year old son is wanting to do everything himself.

I really want a manual with GREAT illustrations and detail related to the braking system. Unfortunately, at the auto parts/book stores, ALL the books seem to be shrink wrapped! You can't see how much detail they go into.....

Does anyone have any suggestions where/what service manual would be good for him?

We can't spend $100 or more for the ford shop manual but was hoping someone here had the good fortune to have bought a manual that they found they simply couldn't do without!

This - by the way - will be his.my first brake system rebuild.

Thanks

CeltinWood

 

[akulczycky]

Ebay Shop Manual

That's where I got my shop manual, managed to get mine for about $30+shipping from a similar post. It's EXTREMELY helpful, especially if you have a.) never repaired a Ranger before and b.) are planning to fix more than the brake lines. If you want something quick, get the Haynes/Chilton, but I found that they weren't as useful to me because they are more of a general overview, and there are some errors/labellings in there - which caused some trouble for me (They also attempt to cover every Ranger/Mazda truck ever made - which tends to lead to some confusion).d