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Replaced Head Gaskets Truck wont Run


Jgillz

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
7
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Manual
I replaced the head gaskets on my 2000 ford ranger. i had both heads checked out at a local machine shop and they were both cracked. so i had new castings ordered and all the valves and everything ground down and transferred over to the new castings. i replaced every gasket from the head gasket up and now when i try to start the truck it will start and rev up to 3k rpm then just die. If you try to keep it running by keeping your foot on the gas it will chug and sound like it is misfiring. Ive double checked the firing order and i can not figure out what is going on. any help would be very appreciated. im stumped..
 
Is the MAf to TB intake tube installed, clamps tight?

Miss connecting any vacuum or PCV hoses?
 
the tube is installed and the clamps are tight. i may have connected the vacuum lines wrong i couldnt find a diagram for the lines so i just plugged them in where it seemed like they would go. do you happen to know where to get a diagram for the vacuum lines?
 
its the 4.0l ohv motor. i just realized i didnt mention that in my previous posts
 
Well engine will be cold so PCM computer will be in Open Loop so not many sensors will be used.
So no CEL(check engine light) for helpful hints.

Reads like your fuel pressure is not being maintained after priming, when you first turn on the key you will hear the fuel pump prime the system then shut off.
Once engine starts the pump will cycle on and off as needed.

Could be the injectors are being turned off, did you hook up all the ground straps, i.e. back of the head to the firewall strap, it is an important one.
 
I did get all the straps connected. I've got an update now. I found that I had not tightened the intake manifold nuts all the way. I only had them finger tight. So now it will run and idle but it is still a little bit rough.. I'm hoping its maybe bad gas but I'm not too sure. I'm going to dump the old gas out of the tank tomorrow and put some fresh gas in.
 
If you haven't already, remove the neg. battery terminal for 5 min. then reconnect it, this will reset the EEC(PCM) so it will relearn the mixtures without the vacuum leak.
 
I got everything all tightened down and the ecu reset now its running great! but now ive got milky oil coming out somewhere.. no idea where it could be coming from. i looked under the truck and it seems like its coming down from somewhere above the transmission..
 
what are the chances of it maybe having a cracked block? could that be a posibility?
 
What does the dipstick oil look like :(

Possible but not likely, Blocks don't usually crack from overheating, freezing and thrown rods can crack blocks, reason is that coolant usually sits in the block when overheating is occurring, heads are what get the most abuse, the head metal expands deforms the head gasket also you can get cracks between the valve seats.

Both heads were cracked.........was that from overheating?

Have you started the engine cold with the rad cap off, did the coolant bubble up?
Pressure in a cold cooling system can only come from a leaking cylinder, head gasket leak usually.

Intake manifold gasket may not have sealed, coolant and oil are both there
 
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I havent checked the dipstick tube yet but i will tomorrow, same with running it with the radiator cap off. i just started it yesterday then noticed the oil so i put the truck back in the garage and havent touched it since. im not sure if the heads were cracked from overheating.. i bought the truck from a friends neighbor when the truck wasnt running. im going to do a compression test hopefully tomorrow as well.
 
When doing the compression test you can also do "the glove test".

Remove rad cap and overflow tube, use a vacuum cap from the engine to block the overflow outlet or a short tube with a bolt in it.
Place a latex glove over the rad cap opening and seal it with a rubber band
Cooling system is now sealed, assuming no leaks :)

Now do your compression test, remove all spark plugs and test one cylinder at a time.
If you see the glove dance(and it will jump a lot) that cylinder you are testing has a leak into the cooling system, for sure.
 
RonD. I had not heard of this test before. So simple and makes a lot of sense. Will save me a lot of time somewhere in the future. A big THANK YOU.
 
My grandfather used a balloon, so "the balloon test" lol

You can do this on a cold running engine as well.
A cold cooling system has no internal pressure, the pressure only comes when coolant heats up.

Start engine
put glove over rad cap opening pinch it tight put finger over overflow tube,
if it starts to inflate you got a blown head gasket or cracked head
 

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