Replace motor and now the clutch pedal is dead

[vender]

Hello all,
I have a 2000 ranger 3.0. I just finished putting in a new motor and now the clutch pedal is dead. Nothing. If you start the motor in gear it moves and out of gear it idles. No leaks, the res is full. The slave and clutch is fairly new. The motor went in well. I am going to bleed the clutch now and keep my fingers crossed. Any ideas?
Thanks
Mark

 

[vender]

I am thinking it has to be the master. It has been sitting for 6 months. No pressure at all, master?

 

[fastpakr]

Very likely air in the master cylinder. Do a search here and you'll find info on bleeding it completely.

 

[vender]

OK I bleed the system and I was thinking the fluid would shoot out when I press the pedal? It barely came out when I pressed the pedal. It did have air in the system but still soft. Does the slave ride on the pressure plate? I think the master has gone? How can I test it?

 

[Duane867]

The bearing on the end of the slave is in constant contact with the pressure plate.
You cant test your master cylinder that I know of while it is on the truck. You can remove it and test it but why go through it if you are not installing a new one ?
The only way you can test it is to bleed the whole system.
Remove the cap on the master cylinder and fill it all the way to the rim, then the dust cap on the slave bleeder screw.
Hook a clear tub to the bleeder on the slave draining in to a container. Open her up fairly wide and let it stream out watching for air bubbles in the tube. Have an assistant keep an eye on the master reservoir and let you know when it gets to the step or just below it. then close the bleeder on the slave. Fill the reservoir back up to the rim and repeat. Do this at least 3 times. ( Smacking the line or flipping it back and forth lightly helps move air bubbles out ). Then close the bleeder. Have your assistant REPLACE THE MASTER RES. CAP then get in the truck. Crack the bleeder open a tad and have them slowly depress the pedal until it almost touches the floor and have them hold it there while you close the bleeder screw. After closing the bleeder have them quickly release the pedal. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master reservoir. If no air is present close the bleeder screw and have them depress the pedal almost to the floor and quickly release it 5 times waiting 5 second in between each depression of the pedal.
This helps draw air out. Then bleed it described above on last time.
If no air is present your done.

The fact that fluid barely comes out of the bleeder with pedal pressure may point to a clogged check vale in the slave cylinder.
In which case you need to replace the slave cylinder. You have to remove the trans again unfortunately :-(

 

[vender]

Update. I bled and bled and bleed... with a vacuum pump and without, nothing. I called my buddy who is a good mechanic and he said Bendix put out a bulletin that said you have to life the front of the truck 6 feet, well I am not Superman. So I removed the master and angled it down and bled. WOOOOHOOOOOO! SHe works!!!. Thanks for the help. leaving some rep for you all.
Mark

 

[Duane867]

Thats great man good job !
How does the pedal feel ? Firm or easy to depress ?

 

[disciplerocks]

6 feet?

 

[vender]

The pedal feels better than new. Firm yet easy to press. It did not feel this good the day I bought the truck. It always had some slop in it. The 6 feet thing makes the master point down allowing all the air to escape.