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removing rear drum cover


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Can't get the passenger side off. The bleeder was rusted shut. Beat it with a hammer and it didn't budge. Haynes said something about putting a screw driver in the slot and turning the star gear. I couldn't get any thing to turn. Maybe I was doing it wrong.
 
Get a bigger hammer...

Spray some PB blaster or similar around the lug bolts too...
 
There is a couple of things that I have run across. The star wheel is the first. If you can get the other side off then you can see exactly what you're up against. I can never remember which way to turn the star wheel, and there is a metal piece that is supposed to be there that prevents it turning it the direction that you want it to go. I'll end up turning the tire at the same time and if the tire starts getting harder to turn then I'm going the wrong way with the star wheel.
The other thing I've run into is the drum "rust-welding" itself to the axle flange. Put on the axle nuts to protect the studs and hammer the drum in between the studs and also around the circumference. The vibration should break it loose.
If you have access to oxy-acet. that may be an option as well, using it to break the rust-weld bond by expanding the drum with heat.
Good luck,

Richard
 
Its a 2lb mini sledge. The other side just pulls off. Ill try that and see what happens
 
I had to use a 10 lb sledge hammer on my Tempo drums...but they hadn't been removed for about 10 years...surprised I didn't shatter the drum but was replacing them anyway...

Heat might help as Richard mentioned...never had to do that on anything other than ball joints...
 
I think it stuck because the brake pads are in expanded position. Twist the brake adjuster.
 

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