Removing oil pan

[FlyingFatass]

So I might be looking at a bad oil pump (thought my gauge/reader had gone bad, but i'm begining to develop lifter tick and some other noises coming from the valvetrain). I'm letting the truck sit for now.

I'm going to get a replacement reader and a gauge that actually tells psi. If its now, I'll know it's the pump.

EDIT: quick readup determined that the pump can be accessed from the front of the engine, and that its run by the timing belt. Is this right? if so, itll save me a lot of hassle.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

no the oil pump cannot be accessed on the front of the engine. the oil pump wasn't moved to the front until later years.

you will be doing yourself a favor if you remove the engine to access the oil pump. the oil pan is a nightmare to do in the vehicle

 

[FlyingFatass]

no the oil pump cannot be accessed on the front of the engine. the oil pump wasn't moved to the front until later years.

you will be doing yourself a favor if you remove the engine to access the oil pump. the oil pan is a nightmare to do in the vehicle[/QUO

Are you sure? I've got a 1990 and this person is describing how to change the oil pump on a 1991 ranger with a 2.3 4cyl.

and Damn, I know a show will charge a lot to pull the engine....i might actually save myself some money buying an engine hoist from harbor frieght and doing the work myself.

 

[FlyingFatass]

Could it possibly be the oil screen clogging? Ive read that it's a common problem. I've read some stuff about a kerosine flush, but not much else regarding unplugging the oil screen without pulling the oil pan. Does anyone happen to know any way of unplugging the oil screen without pulling the oil pan?

either way ill get the new gauge and do a pressure test before I do anything major, but damn this sucks.

 

[scotts90ranger]

the only way to clean the screen is to pull the oil pan, I've heard of people fishing a coat hanger around and managing to get some of the gunk off the screen but if it's anything like mine was when I first pulled the engine, the stuff is half stuck in the screen and doesn't just fall out

 

[FlyingFatass]

the only way to clean the screen is to pull the oil pan, I've heard of people fishing a coat hanger around and managing to get some of the gunk off the screen but if it's anything like mine was when I first pulled the engine, the stuff is half stuck in the screen and doesn't just fall out

how much do you think a shop would charge for such a job? i might just buy an engine lift myself if it'll save me a couple hundred.

 

[Roger]

Since we did exactly what you are talking about a few years ago, you are better off yanking the engine. Ours is a 1990 2.3 with 5 speed and 4x4. You cannot get the motor high enough still connected to the transmission. So while you have the motor yanked, do yourself a favor, and replace the rear main seal too. You won't need much in the way of special tools, other than the lift, and some special tools for the fuel lines. Give some thought as well to new motor mounts. Not expensive. But while you have the room to do the work, you might as well.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Are you sure? I've got a 1990 and this person is describing how to change the oil pump on a 1991 ranger with a 2.3 4cyl.

the oil pump wasn't moved to the front until 95

and Damn, I know a show will charge a lot to pull the engine....i might actually save myself some money buying an engine hoist from harbor frieght and doing the work myself.

a shop will charge more than the truck is even worth, im guessing at least $1k, you could even get a whole other engine

Could it possibly be the oil screen clogging? Ive read that it's a common problem. I've read some stuff about a kerosine flush, but not much else regarding unplugging the oil screen without pulling the oil pan. Does anyone happen to know any way of unplugging the oil screen without pulling the oil pan?

this is very common. there is no way to unclog it without removing the oil pan. even if you did get the dirt out it would still be in the pan to clog it again. my pickup screen was completely caked with silicone bits from the PO over applying silicone

 

[Mark_88]

The ticking could be normal...mine ticks when it's a bit low on oil but it stops ticking...

Try removing the valve cover and run the engine to see if the oil is getting up to the valves...if it's not...then you need to consider the pump...

As for ticking, should you not need to work on the pump also, you could add some Lucas Oil treatment or something similar...this stuff sticks a bit better and when the oil is slow to the valves (like on startup) you've got a residue...but don't use too much...it's thick as molasses and more expensive than Maple Syrup...

 

[scotts90ranger]

it's a PIA to get the valve cover off of a injected 2.3 with EGR, the EGR tube gets in the way of the cover... not to mention the throttle body being directly over it, having seen the issue first hand I'd say it's the screen, oil pump is most likely fine as mine has 200K on it I just cleaned the screen when the engine was out when I swapped it to the other chassis then again when I put the same pump on my turbo engine.

instead of getting the special tools for the fuel lines, take the fuel lines apart at the fuel filter, it's MUCH easier, both the supply and return are there, if you are persistent you can get it done in a day on the first time, definitely in a weekend. The only somewhat odd tools you will need is a 18mm wrench for the motor mount studs, and a 15mm socket with about 2' of extensions for the exhaust at the manifold, everything else is 13mm and 10mm, starter is 17mm though and the power wire to it is 3/8". If you can swing it, getting the 13mm and 18mm wrenches in the ratcheting variety will save you a fair amount of time... to help support the front of the transmission while the engine is out, a ratchet strap over the top of the frame and under the tranny works great, or a 2x4 on top of the radius arm crossmember. Also, don't put the oil filter on until the engine is back in place, believe me, it'll fight the engine mount. A second person to help you line the engine up with the transmission is a huge time saver, it's doable with one person but not fun.

I've never farmed out any work for my truck or any car in my family so I can't tell you how much a shop would charge, in 11 years the only things a shop has done to my truck is tires and a windshield.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

somw how i remember getting my oil pan off my 90 2.3l without pulling the motor or the trans, but it was a tight fit and i dont think i got the pan all the way off, just enough to unbolt the pump and clean it out on the bench, then put it back on and cleaned up mating surfaces on the block and pan and installed new gasket. im almost positive i used a floor jack and some blocks of wood between the motor mount frame plates and the engine brackets.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

somw how i remember getting my oil pan off my 90 2.3l without pulling the motor or the trans, but it was a tight fit and i dont think i got the pan all the way off, just enough to unbolt the pump and clean it out on the bench, then put it back on and cleaned up mating surfaces on the block and pan and installed new gasket. im almost positive i used a floor jack and some blocks of wood between the motor mount frame plates and the engine brackets.

thats how i did mine. never again

 

[scotts90ranger]

if you take the oil level sensor off, the oil pan would be a LOT easier to get off as it gets really close to the pick up. It would be doable but better to do it right...

 

[John Smith]

Don't forget...

about the 8mm 12 pt needed to get the (2) mount bolts on the Oil pump...

 

[FlyingFatass]

it's a PIA to get the valve cover off of a injected 2.3 with EGR, the EGR tube gets in the way of the cover... not to mention the throttle body being directly over it, having seen the issue first hand I'd say it's the screen, oil pump is most likely fine as mine has 200K on it I just cleaned the screen when the engine was out when I swapped it to the other chassis then again when I put the same pump on my turbo engine.

instead of getting the special tools for the fuel lines, take the fuel lines apart at the fuel filter, it's MUCH easier, both the supply and return are there, if you are persistent you can get it done in a day on the first time, definitely in a weekend. The only somewhat odd tools you will need is a 18mm wrench for the motor mount studs, and a 15mm socket with about 2' of extensions for the exhaust at the manifold, everything else is 13mm and 10mm, starter is 17mm though and the power wire to it is 3/8". If you can swing it, getting the 13mm and 18mm wrenches in the ratcheting variety will save you a fair amount of time... to help support the front of the transmission while the engine is out, a ratchet strap over the top of the frame and under the tranny works great, or a 2x4 on top of the radius arm crossmember. Also, don't put the oil filter on until the engine is back in place, believe me, it'll fight the engine mount. A second person to help you line the engine up with the transmission is a huge time saver, it's doable with one person but not fun.

I've never farmed out any work for my truck or any car in my family so I can't tell you how much a shop would charge, in 11 years the only things a shop has done to my truck is tires and a windshield.

Alright, heres the plan. I'm going to buy a new oil pressure reader and gauge tomorrow, one that actually gives me psi. if its running low, ill take off the valve cover to see if its getting oil. if not, ill know its the pump or the screen. I have a friend about an hour away who had everything needed to pull the engine and remove the pan.

That being said, whats the process of removing the valve cover? If i'm reading low pressure, can I just assume that the top of the engine isn't getting any oil, so I can just go right to the oil pump/screen?