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Removing coil spring retaining stud


The_Dealer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
1,543
City
Macon, GA
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Automatic
hey guys im wanting to remove my spacer, and i took the coil out, and im trying to replace the stud, its pretty screwed up looking(and bent). question is, how do i get the dam thing out? theres a nut at the bottom, but i cant get it broke loose, does it go the opposite way? any ideas on how i get the thing out to replace it?

thanks guys

also could the stud be replaced with a stud from fastenal or somewhere of the likes?

ive heard its like a double sided bolt, couldnt i use a regular stud of the correct size and put a nut on it, then use a new nut for the retainer?
 
Last edited:
hey guys im wanting to remove my spacer, and i took the coil out, and im trying to replace the stud, its pretty screwed up looking(and bent). question is, how do i get the dam thing out? theres a nut at the bottom, but i cant get it broke loose, does it go the opposite way? any ideas on how i get the thing out to replace it?

thanks guys

also could the stud be replaced with a stud from fastenal or somewhere of the likes?

ive heard its like a double sided bolt, couldnt i use a regular stud of the correct size and put a nut on it, then use a new nut for the retainer?

the stud is standard thread. so its still lefty loosey.

as for replacing it tho, i'm not sure it is def a "double sided bolt" but i'd try a junkyard before using a stud from fastenal.
 
It's a double sided bolt, with the part going into the beam being larger than the stud to the coil.
You could just buy a 3/4" bolt and cut the head off, thread on a nut half way down, weld it and use that, but the coil washers will need to be drilled out..
You need a 1 1/8" combo wrench and a torch, the stud is loctite'd in and won't break free easily.
 
When I pulled mine, I just used a long pipe on my breaker bar. BUT I found blue thread locker from the factory on them so if you used heat it would go much easier.
Richard
 
for situations like that, i bust out my good buddy gary. gary is 24 inch piece of 1" square aluminum stock that can slide over all types of ratchet handles and wrenches, works great to give you that little bit of extra torque. i easily removed all of my head bolts with it and it cost less than $5
 
I have a Gary as well lol :D Mine took heat and a Gary which is odd since I live in a rust absent area (CA foothills). Sucka was effin torqued down and locktited like nobody's business....
 
Bad thing is most deep well 1 1/8" sockets will bottom out before reaching the nut at the bottom....so you must use a box end open end wrench...then put a cheater pipe on the end of the open end portion and it will turn....even without heat...I had to heat the bottom bolt to remove it, but the upper stud I got both sides to turn out with the method above and I have a truck from Michigan which is completely corroded...so it will turn out. And as was stated before the two ends of the stud are different sizes and different lenghts. If you need a torch just go to lowe's and buy a map gas unit...worked perfect for me. I am in the process of reassembling mine right now....good luck!

BigDan
 

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