Removing 4R55e from 1996 4.0? Things to replace while trans is out?

[gdk771]

I searched the forum and it appears that the easiest way to do this is to disconnect the "Y" pipes from the exhaust manifold to the cat. I have a few questions about this.

1. Do you just leave the pipes hanging or can you remove them for easier trans removal?

2. Will the transmission slip over the front cross mount that the Y pipe is resting on?

2a. How many electrical plugs / connections do you disconnect?

2b. Does the shift cable end simply pop off the end of the transmission shifter? This looks like it is plastic and I am afraid of stressing a 26 year old connection. If there is a better way to remove this please let me know.

3. I am assuming I should replace the rear main seal on the engine if possible. Can this be done?

4. Should the engine mounts be loosened to allow easier access to the top bell housing bolts / torque converter bolts?

5. I have the extended cab with the two piece tail shaft (double cardan joint). Is there an easy way to remove the rear shaft and leave it hanging or do you have to loosen the mount for the joint?

6. I saw someone mention changing a rear timing chain and guide while the trans it out but I have an push rod OHV system so I don't think that applies to my year engine. I did check the front timing chain several years ago and it still looked great. Apparently these engines don't wear timing chains that much at least this version.

If anyone knows of a link to a video or write up showing this step by step please let me know. All I can find on YouTube are videos showing how to remove this trans on a 4x4 Ranger not a 2wd one and not my particular vintage or year.

If I am missing anything else to check or replace while the transmission is out please let me know. I am including some pictures of the areas I am concerned about.

Thanks

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ok, so I’ll take a stab at this, lol

1) I want to say that I have squeezed them past without removing it, but it may have to come out. Should have a junction before or after the cat or both. May or may not come apart nicely anywhere. I’ve heard tell of places that don’t have this level of rust where things actually come apart like they’re supposed to. Broke 4 of 4 Y-pipe to manifold bolts on my 2000. Not always that unlucky, but close.

2) It does fit over the crossmember, but it’s a snug fit if I remember right.

a) Not entirely sure how many electrical connectors, my 88 had one, and my 00 had a couple because an oxygen sensor was part of the transmission harness.

b) Shift cable does indeed just pop off and it usually is on there pretty good. I’ve never really given it much thought and just popped it loose.

3) Never tried to replace the rear main. Long as they were dry I never worried about it. Valve cover leaks were a bigger problem. I had a valve cover leak that had a mechanic convinced my rear main was pouring oil. When I pulled it, the rear main was dry as the Sahara. The valve cover gaskets were only leaking in the very back.

4) Never tried that. Usually did the top two from the engine bay and cussed them good for being a pain. They all are considerably easier to work on with a 2” body lift. Even a 1” body lift would probably help, which is what I’m planning for my 88. Tilting things would probably help too.

5) I don’t know about the 2wd models. On the 4x4 they bolted to a flange on the transfer case, undid the bolts, swung it over towards a frame rail and tied it up if I remember right. If it doesn’t bolt at the transmission, then the driveshaft has to come out.

6) Correct, rear timing chain doesn’t apply to the OHV, only the newer SOHC motors.

2wd and 4x4 transmissions aren’t much different in these, just depends if there’s the tail shaft on the 2wd or transfer case on the 4x4. It is a little easier on the 4x4 to drop the transfer case first and then the transmission so you’re essentially working with the same thing.

Can’t think of anything else in particular right now.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I searched the forum and it appears that the easiest way to do this is to disconnect the "Y" pipes from the exhaust manifold to the cat. I have a few questions about this.

1. Do you just leave the pipes hanging or can you remove them for easier trans removal?

2. Will the transmission slip over the front cross mount that the Y pipe is resting on?

2a. How many electrical plugs / connections do you disconnect?

2b. Does the shift cable end simply pop off the end of the transmission shifter? This looks like it is plastic and I am afraid of stressing a 26 year old connection. If there is a better way to remove this please let me know.

3. I am assuming I should replace the rear main seal on the engine if possible. Can this be done?

4. Should the engine mounts be loosened to allow easier access to the top bell housing bolts / torque converter bolts?

5. I have the extended cab with the two piece tail shaft (double cardan joint). Is there an easy way to remove the rear shaft and leave it hanging or do you have to loosen the mount for the joint?

6. I saw someone mention changing a rear timing chain and guide while the trans it out but I have an push rod OHV system so I don't think that applies to my year engine. I did check the front timing chain several years ago and it still looked great. Apparently these engines don't wear timing chains that much at least this version.

If anyone knows of a link to a video or write up showing this step by step please let me know. All I can find on YouTube are videos showing how to remove this trans on a 4x4 Ranger not a 2wd one and not my particular vintage or year.

If I am missing anything else to check or replace while the transmission is out please let me know. I am including some pictures of the areas I am concerned about.View attachment 74028

Thanks

1) first one, then the other if necessary
2)Maybe.
2a) All of them.
2b) Pretty much yea, just be gentle about it.
3) Yes, but leave alone it if its not leaking.
4) It would probably make things easier.
5) Remove all of it, including the crossmember, and swap in a one piece driveshaft.
6) No, unless you are a glutton for punishment.

These are simple and easy machines to work on if you don't overthink it. Variable types of wrenches, ratchets, extensions, wobblers, pliers etc...helps. Power or air tools speed up the process.

 

[gdk771]

OK THANKS VERY MUCH guys. I got the driveshaft removed and all of the electrical connections / shifter linkage.

I am having a problem with the #$@ exhaust manifold bolts. They just don't wont to loosen. I tried heating them and also using P Blaster on them. The studs at the catalytic converter are pretty much blobs of rust.

I saw someone mention they raised the cab to allow enought clearance to take the trans out instead of removing the y manifold. Has anyone had any luck with this? I'm really worried about snapping off bolts on my exhaust at this point.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

OK THANKS VERY MUCH guys. I got the driveshaft removed and all of the electrical connections / shifter linkage.

I am having a problem with the #$@ exhaust manifold bolts. They just don't wont to loosen. I tried heating them and also using P Blaster on them. The studs at the catalytic converter are pretty much blobs of rust.

I saw someone mention they raised the cab to allow enought clearance to take the trans out instead of removing the y manifold. Has anyone had any luck with this? I'm really worried about snapping off bolts on my exhaust at this point.

Let em snap, get new ones.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would try to maneuver the trans over the exhaust first. You might have to twist and use various angles to accomplish. I should have mentioned taking the truck to an exhaust shop first and have them loosen the bolts ahead of time.... oh well, maybe someone else will see this and benefit.
Other option I've done is cut the pipe out that's in the way and put in a flexpipe repair piece after. The repair pieces dont seem to last more than a year or 2 tho.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah, I think I’d see if I could get it without removing the exhaust. You need a ton of heat on the bolts, have to get the metal around the bolt on the manifolds cherry and work quick to have a chance of success if the bolts are seized. If they break, you’ll have more room to work on them with the transmission out. If the exhaust has to come out and the converter bolts are rust blobs, I’d probably just cut and splice the pipe somewhere. Put a straight slice through and use an exhaust connector, it will last longer than flex