Regular cab fuel sender on ext cab? And more.

[jazzkramer]

Hi guys,

I own an Extended Cab Ranger 1996 2.3L gasoline.

I need to replace the sending unit (pump is new, but now other problems (broken connector inside...)

I bought the wrong sending unit i.e. the Regular Cab unit.

1) Does any of you knows if a Reg cab sending unit does fit an Ext cab truck?
I would like to know before removing the bed again.

2) The fuel level part of the new sending unit seems hard, while the old one is movving very free (and it works good). It's not moving down with the float weight. Is it correct??

Thanks guys... I'm having many problems with this old truck and I live in a bad country for spare parts...
Dominican Republic

 

[scotts90ranger]

The senders are most likely the same between the two cab styles as the tanks are the same depth, just one's 16 gallon and the other is possibly 21 gallon if I remember right.

You are probably on the problem with the sender not going down when the level is low. If it's anything like the ones I've had apart it should be a simple piece, you should be able to figure out what is causing the extra drag.

 

[jazzkramer]

Thanks Scotts,

I am sure the two senders are different:

regular cab: https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-SP37A1H/dp/B000ROJKDM/?tag=959media-20

extended cab: https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E2078S-Fuel-Sender-Assembly/dp/B000C1IN92/?tag=959media-20

The hoses are different, but maybe it fits?


So the friction of the gasoline level mechanism is wrong.
It seems the pin is to thick for the plastic cilinder around it....
I decided to check how does it cost the shipment from here to U.S. (where I bought it) ...maybe I can have my money back for the friction problem, than buy the correct one.... even if the shipment will be... high


Thanks for your reply!

 

[scotts90ranger]

The senders should be the same, but the whole assembly is apparently different, from the pictures on autozone it looks to be that the orientation of the float lever is different between the two, or the bend in the down pipe to the fuel pump is different.

The other option would be to file or drill out the pivot in the sender a little to make it work, should be plenty of material

 

[tomw]

Take a closer look at the original sender. It is plain electrical connections and wiring, nothing special. You can use copper wire to bridge broken conductors.
From memory, there are 3 things inside: 1) fuel level sender wire, 2)pump power and 3)pump ground. Fix the conductors, and use the old one. Return the defective one and take your refund.(should refund)
tom

added: If you want suggestions, post a few pics of the sending unit with broken bits.