Rebuilt 5R55E Won't Seat?

[NefariousDeeds]

Hi guys, we broke the original transmission on our 2006 Ranger with the 4.0 and a 5R55E transmission. Bought a good rebuilt unit and we're in the process of swapping it in. We got the old trans out without any issues, transferred over all the sensors and such, and are trying to mate the new trans to the engine block. That sucker will not mate up no matter what we try. I've done quite a few transmissions on other makes and models and they are always a little bit of a struggle to mate but with patience and adjustments, I've always had them eventually pop in without too much hassle. This has been totally different. In and out 5 times last night over about a 4 hour period and tried everything I could think of to get it to slide in all to no avail.

Here's what I've tried:
Ensured the new torque converter is properly seated in the transmission - clicked twice and won't go in any further; input shaft end is even with bell housing surface and converter almost touches the rear of the housing
Checked to make sure the new torque converter and transmission bell housing match the old one - calipers say input shaft is the same size, bell housing looks identical, measures the same
Checked to make sure the alignment pins are properly installed on the engine and have the right holes to line up on in the new trans
Changed the angle on the transmission using two transmission jacks to ensure it was on the same angle as the engine (dang 5R55E has a pan that isn't at all flat on the bottom, built a cradle to hold it)
Ensured the torque converter bolts are lined up with the holes in the flex plate (but the trans won't get close enough for them to go into the flex plate, so I don't believe they are the issue
Got the darn O2 sensor connector out from between the engine and transmission at the top (thought I'd solved the issue) and made sure it and all other wires and cables are not between the engine and transmission

Transmission slides up beautifully to the engine each time, gets to the point where the alignment pins are about to go in and stops like its hitting something. All the bolts line up with the holes in the engine but I won't use the bolts to pull the trans in- something is in the way. It sure feels like the input shaft just isn't sliding into its hole but I don't know how that could be when all the bolts line up. Are these things just difficult to get lined up right or am I missing something? Thanks guys

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Input shaft should stick out 1" from stator support, no more no less, seen here: https://s32667.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/TD201101_TCTechTips_04.jpg

So this would be the wrong length input shaft: https://s32667.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/TD201101_TCTechTips_05.jpg

There are 3 different input shaft lengths, seen here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/uploads/mercury_image/image/1942/figure3__6_.jpg

Not sure thats the issue just FYI

If you can take torque converter off again see how it fits on to the flexplate, does it slide in all the way, studs and center into crank

 

[NefariousDeeds]

Thank you for the welcome! Interesting on the input shaft (why Ford?!). That would suck if that was the issue. But thank you, I'll pull the torque converter off and check those measurements! Also that's a great idea on sliding the torque converter on the flex plate, I will try that as well and report back.

 

[RonD]

The input shaft can just be pulled out, I thought the splines at both ends were the same length, but one end could be shorter so shaft could be installed backwards and be sticking out too far
You would pull shaft out, reverse it, and put it back in to get the 1" needed, no harm done

 

[NefariousDeeds]

The input shaft can just be pulled out, I thought the splines at both ends were the same length, but one end could be shorter so shaft could be installed backwards and be sticking out too far
You would pull shaft out, reverse it, and put it back in to get the 1" needed, no harm done

Ahhh good to know! I'm gonna run out at lunch in a few minutes and check it. Thank you!

 

[NefariousDeeds]

Ok so I measured the output shaft per the pics posted and its dead on 1" so that's good. While the torque converter was off, I put it on the flex plate and lined up the bolts; went on beautifully. I did however forget that the converter is full of fluid and managed to absolutely bathe myself in trans fluid lol glad I work from home.

Anyway those were great ideas but they both checked out ok so I'm back to being stumped.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Some converters seat after 3 clicks. Use a straight edge across the bell and measure to the converter bolt flats. Then check where the flex plate is in comparison to the back of the block.

 

[NefariousDeeds]

Some converters seat after 3 clicks. Use a straight edge across the bell and measure to the converter bolt flats. Then check where the flex plate is in comparison to the back of the block.

Alright that's a good idea to confirm everything. It wouldn't go in any further and I kept spinning and pushing so I think it was fully seated but measuring is a great idea. I'll do that after work and post the results. Thank you!

 

[Blmpkn]

Alright that's a good idea to confirm everything. It wouldn't go in any further and I kept spinning and pushing so I think it was fully seated but measuring is a great idea. I'll do that after work and post the results. Thank you!

Sometimes it can take what seems like 20 minutes to get that third click out of the converter.

Swearing while spinning and pushing usually helps.

 

[NefariousDeeds]

Alright went and put a straight edge across the bell housing, measured to the bolts flats, took that measurement and measured to the flex plate from the bell housing and they're identical. For good measure I checked the old transmission and torque converter and it measures exactly the same. And just to confirm, I did get 3 clicks out of the torque converter when putting it on before measuring. And I checked the brackets that were holding the converter in from the rebuild shop and they fit with the converter now, meaning it was all the way in before when those guys sent it out and I didn't take the brackets off until right before I went to install it so that it didn't move. So I think that's all correct and has been.

As far as measurements and such go everything is correct, converter is seated properly and all that. It feels like something in the middle is holding up the trans from sliding in, because I can rock it side to side. If it was something on the side hitting, I feel like I'd only be able to push it one way. So I think I just don't have the transmission lined up exactly right and the input shaft isn't angling right to slide into the flex plate. I looked around for one of those trans jacks that have the fore/aft and side/side adjustment but of course everyone is sold out around here. I could drive 100 miles to Sterling Colorado but I don't think I'm that desperate... yet. I'm still wide open to ideas from anyone but its starting to look like I just don't have the trans aligned *exactly* right, since it appears to have to sit back a little and to the passenger side a little to line up right with my non-adjustable trans jack.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Ok, check the bushing in the crank or flex plate for size against the shaft.
( I'm used to an actual bushing but I hear nowadays they got all fancy and use bearings now...lol )

 

[NefariousDeeds]

Ok, check the bushing in the crank or flex plate for size against the shaft.
( I'm used to an actual bushing but I hear nowadays they got all fancy and use bearings now...lol )

Lol well I did take the converter and put it on the engine. Shaft goes in perfectly, converter bolts line up with the flex plate, everything seats properly and sits perfect. So I think we're all good there

 

[NefariousDeeds]

Alright gents, thought I'd close this out in case anyone else runs into this problem and finds this thread. First, thanks for everyone's help. They were great suggestions to make sure I wasn't fighting against an unseated torque converter or wrong input shaft or what have you. I did get it in just now. I think what caused the issue is that this engine/trans combination has to go in at precisely the right angle, and the right angle is higher on the passenger side than the driver side. I think a trans jack with side to side tilt capability would make this a ton easier. What I ended up doing was getting the alignment pin lined up on the drivers side, carefully threading in one of the lower (longer) bolts to temporary hold it (not pull it in) and then just carefully worked the passenger side, up, down, tilted, twisted and finally it slid on. I can say too the torque converter bolts for sure have to be lined up exactly right or they will block the trans as well. Once it slid on I pulled out the long bolts, put all the bolts in their correct holes and everything tightened up beautifully. Hallelujah! So at the end of the day, I think the answer is, its just a really hard transmission to get in doing it DIY in your garage lol. Thanks again guys!

 

[RonD]

Good stuff