Rebuild kit?

[1jasonmoody1]

I have a 4.0 from 94 explorer and I want to do a solid rebuild before putting it in 96 ranger

 

[Angie]

hi, welcome aboard.... how can we help you here?

 

[1jasonmoody1]

So what I've done is I've taken a motor out of a 94 explorer and I would like to put it in to my 96 ranger after I rebuild it because my motor in my 96 ranger is lazy tired ticking and burning some oil I'm hoping it works with just replacing my intake and whatnot basically need to get information on that and if it will work what is a reputable rebuild kit and recommendations that way wouldn't mind a little bit more power but I'm certain a rebuild will be more power than I have now I have a complete duff suspension building fenders caged bed I love my little ranger

 

[1jasonmoody1]

hi, welcome aboard.... how can we help you here?

Sorry both are 4.0

 

[Angie]

hi. well just replacing the intake will not help much, as there isn't anything to replace it with except the same intake you took off. I will assume and guess this is your first attempt at rebuilding a motor?

more power = more expenses and head aches in the long run for these engines if going non OEM specs.

my suggestion is to rebuild as it came from Ford. If you go this route. Should be easier to locate new rings bearings, and gaskets.

Every one today seems hell bent on being afraid of an older engine that has some ticking to it ... is it injector noises? or valve train?

there is a mountain of information on this web site about these engines, and what to do and not do with them. I am sure you have read over many pages by now if you are here asking questions.

First thing you should have is a (Haynes, Clymer ... or?) auto repair book(s) as the rebuild sections are full of decent information and all torque specs, etc ...

second thing to do ... and many don't look seriously enough into this before tearing apart the engine ... What it will cost, and what parts to source out to put back into the engine. add into it the price of any shop work you are going to want to get done. This stuff adds up very quickly.

IE - after the block has been cleaned (hot tanked or just bathed) and you take the main bearings and crank to spec on torque, with the plasti on all bearings, then remove the caps to check them all, now do you need to get the crank turned? if so, it is an added expense and a new set of over sized bearings are to be ordered ... or did you place in new bearings and test the plasti before you sent the block out to be cleaned to know the shape crank is in? and then decided to turn it or it is in great shape and just leaving it alone. remember, a little loose is better than too tight for better oiling in the crank passages.
These little engines have a solid bottom end to them. how many miles are on the engine you want to overhaul?

cheers ask away and read. I don't claim to have any answers, just thoughts about how I have done things in the past, and currently do things ...

 

[1jasonmoody1]

hi. well just replacing the intake will not help much, as there isn't anything to replace it with except the same intake you took off. I will assume and guess this is your first attempt at rebuilding a motor?

more power = more expenses and head aches in the long run for these engines if going non OEM specs.

my suggestion is to rebuild as it came from Ford. If you go this route. Should be easier to locate new rings bearings, and gaskets.

Every one today seems hell bent on being afraid of an older engine that has some ticking to it ... is it injector noises? or valve train?

there is a mountain of information on this web site about these engines, and what to do and not do with them. I am sure you have read over many pages by now if you are here asking questions.

First thing you should have is a (Haynes, Clymer ... or?) auto repair book(s) as the rebuild sections are full of decent information and all torque specs, etc ...

second thing to do ... and many don't look seriously enough into this before tearing apart the engine ... What it will cost, and what parts to source out to put back into the engine. add into it the price of any shop work you are going to want to get done. This stuff adds up very quickly.

IE - after the block has been cleaned (hot tanked or just bathed) and you take the main bearings and crank to spec on torque, with the plasti on all bearings, then remove the caps to check them all, now do you need to get the crank turned? if so, it is an added expense and a new set of over sized bearings are to be ordered ... or did you place in new bearings and test the plasti before you sent the block out to be cleaned to know the shape crank is in? and then decided to turn it or it is in great shape and just leaving it alone. remember, a little loose is better than too tight for better oiling in the crank passages.
These little engines have a solid bottom end to them. how many miles are on the engine you want to overhaul?

cheers ask away and read. I don't claim to have any answers, just thoughts about how I have done things in the past, and currently do things ...

I think you may have misunderstood me I meant replacing the intake off of my 96 and putting it on the 94 motor because they're different intakes and the whole thing is going back into the 96. And the 94 motor is leaking from the rear seal so the reason I was going to rebuild it was to fix the leaks might as well while I'm in there is what I was thinking there's just so many rebuild kits on the market for these trucks it's hard to know which one's a good one and which ones just a rip off

 

[Angie]

ahhhh ok i guess i was thinking you were 100% tear down and rebuild.

rebuild kits?? no idea there as if I need just a rear seal.... well it is just 1 seal ... one thing i would look at then, is also checking if the bottom pan gasket is torn anywhere or leaking. easier to replace it out of a truck then in the engine bay.

cheers

 

[Josh B]

Jason I believe you'll need to use the intakes from the 96 so the wiring you have in the Ranger will work with those. Your doing a lot like I am in some ways. I'm taking a block from a 96 Explorer to use in a 93 Ranger.

I'll use the 96 block and my 93 intakes basically due to the same wiring harness issues.
I'll also do what bit of upgrades or cleanup are feasible along the way but mostly just a simple swap for now.

I might later do a rebuild on the original Ranger block and swap it back in, who knows

 

[Josh B]

What are you going to use for a lift ?

 

[1jasonmoody1]

What are you going to use for a lift ?

If you're asking about the suspension I went with the duff suspension mid travel it gave me a little bit of a lift but I was more so after the upgraded suspension movement and I did a bucket swap

 

[Josh B]

I was asking about lifting the motors. I'll be building an "A" frame type lift on mine and it will be stationary.
I'm hoping to use it to lift the Ranger engine, pull the Ranger back, move that motor out of the way, pull the Explorer under the frame and pull that motor, move the Explorer back, pull the ranger back in and drop the engine into it. Sounds simple eh?

 

[1jasonmoody1]

That's funny I did the same thing and then used it chain trolley to pick it up rolled it out and I'll be doing the same thing with the ranger

 

[Josh B]

Whatever works they say

 

[Angie]

you could always try this ......

If you use your wife's roof rack for pulling motors, you might be a redneck

I remember her saying something about her paying $20 bucks to rent a cherry picker, I said put the money to better use and go buy some beer. and back your truck up onto the ramps. which she did. we had a beer :beer: things were going along pretty good till my son and I hit a small problem, as...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[1jasonmoody1]

All day....I love it