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Ranger 3.0 w/water in oil, need help


chux72vette

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
6
City
Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
1999 Ranger, 3.0 Flex, 150,000 miles.
Hi all, Have a problem and some questions on what to do.
Problem #1. Was driving, noticed the truck started acting funny, driveability, and wasn't far from home. Got there, opened hood, checked all and found water in the oil. Let it cool and made further checks. Asked around and have knowledge/tools and got a top end kit. Figured it blew a head gasket. R&R the heads with new gaskets, same problem. Next, purchased new heads as was cheaper than reworking old ones, 1 year warranty also, redid everything,,,Same Problem. drained oil/milk from pan, put in some used oil to flush, drained coolant and started up. Motor runs perfect, ie;idle, rev. Started putting water in the rad and instantly started going into the crankcase as was checking the dipstick constantly. Its like I was putting in the water straight into the oil pan. It never ran Hot or anything.
Problem #2. A local respected Ford guy at his garage said it would be the lower intake manifold.???????
Has anyone had this problem as I was thinking cracked block, he tends to disagree 100%. I know these are good reliable engines and all but this one has me totally stumped. Thanx ahead for help.~
 
Sounds like the mechanic you talked to is on the right track. There is one other place I would consider. The timing gear cover has two sleeves that have o-rings for a seal, where oil and water pass by each other. Those sleeves are made of mild steel and will corrode. In the "quick check of the mind", the manifold and and timing cover are the only engineered places where oil and water are sealed from each other by a gasket. If you changed the heads once and the problem still exists, I would look toward the timing cover as the manifold should be solid now...right?

Eric<><:icon_welder:
 
I was thinking the same thing as I have beating my brains out on this one. Would have normally been a head or gasket or both, but not for me. I was looking in the book again and thought about how all that went together, water pump/timing cover, and started thinking about if maybe a fin broke off and punctured the timing cover. Update to testing,,I used a radiator pump to see what it might show with minimal water in the rad. I started pumping and after 5 times, I could hear the water draining from the pan. Had the drain plug out to let drain. So I believe it is gonna be contained to something lower in the engine as that had to push the water through the lower hose and into the engine. Am gonna take all that down tomorrow and see what I can see. Let me know if you think of anything else and Thank You for resonding back.~
 
Well I cleaned and checked all mating surfaces, also got reman heads and they checked good. Even looked at gaskets the 2nd time. All seems good. Had old heads checked at a machine shop and they said were OK, just needed a valve job, no warpage or cracks after magnaflux. After the rad test today with minimal water in the rad and after only pumping 5 times, water was draining into drip pan,(oil drain plug out), has to be going through the lower hose into motor on lower end. Is why i am thinking something with waterpump/timing cover. Al gonna break that down tomorrow. Let me know if you can think of anything else and Thank You for posting. Chuck~
 
Sorry for the goofy response. I was being a robot and missed the part where you said it was a 3.0. The response I gave was entirely 2.8. I know nothing about 3.0.

Eric <><
 
Well folks, Here is the update about the water/oil mix. I can't upload the pics yet but here goes. I looked in the book and was searching for any other straws as was just not convinced,"New Engine" as all else were saying. I payed attention to all that responded here and after more research, I pulled the waterpump. Once I took it off, it revealed a nice perfectly cut hole through the back of the timing cover. So, lest we say, New Water Pump($60), Timing Set($35), while I am in there, New Thermostat($14), all new gaskets($17), Used Timing Cover($35). Finally getting this thing fixed,,,,Priceless!!! Thanx all who had input and hope this might help those who might look at this thread and might be having similar trouble. Goes to show, Do Not Give Up on the 3.0!!!!!!~
 
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hello chux72vette, I have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 with the same problem (coolant in the oil), so a mechanic change the head gaskets and that din't fix the problem and he doesn't know what to do now.
question: Do you think I can fix it my self just looking instruction on internet? I have cero experience in mechanic, but like you said everybody i telling me "new engine" and that is probably more expensive than the truck!

and since is bad I would like to try my self!
 
Pena1526 when doing that job I would go slow. It's not to hard to do the only hard part it taking that fan off.

I changed a few timing cover gasket and covers and the first two leaked oil after that I changed the oil pan gasket too with the updated gasket.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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