Random intermittent issues.

[JimRummy]

I just wanted to see if one (or more) of these issues are relating to something failing, or getting ready to fail.
I have a 93 4.0 AT 2WD. The brakes have always kinda sucked, but they are worse then they've been recently. I noticed some fluid coming out of the rear drums, and getting on the wheels. Not a lot, but enough to notice. I recall reading that you can tell if its brake fluid, or diffy fluid by rubbing it between your fingers and seeing if i becomes gummy. Well unfortunately it had already dried too much for me to do that, and hasn't done it since. I took it in to have the fluid flushed (I cannot work on it at my apartment) and they told me there was no life left on the shoes, the wheel cylinders were failing , and it would continue to leak and feel spongy until I give them hundreds of dollars, yada yada you know the spiel. Anyway I take it to my parents house and replace the shoes (which were not all the way gone btw). It gets better, but still not great. Before doing the shoes the pedal went 3/5 to the floor before it bites, and never really felt good, like when you are almost to a complete stop the pedal sinks more, and you have to push harder when going slower for whatever reason. The pedal always seemed to fade at stops, and almost seemed to require additional pressure the longer you are stopped. After swapping out shoes, the fluid leakage has stopped (or at least slowed to the point of not noticing).
ANYWAY after a few weeks, and reading around I decided to pull the ABS fuse and see how she drove. Drove decent, a little better but still not perfect. After a week without ABS I put the fuse back in, and now my brakes are the best they've been for years.. The pedal only has to travel maybe 2 or 3 inches to start to bite, as apposed to 3/5 depressed. They feel good, but not confidence inspiring.
On Friday I helped my buddy move his boat (about a 10 mile drive) and the brakes worked, but at times needed to be floored to get it to stop, and this is not a big, or heavy boat. Since moving the boat I feel like they are worse then they were before Friday, but better then they were a week or 2 ago.. Dunno if I'm tripping or what, but now that I have a 8 month old daughter (and with no air bags or anything) safety is a big concern, and for a 20 years old truck I'm not sure exactly where I stand on a lot of these things.
Sorry for the huge post, but I type like I talk, so it can take a while.
Any input is appreciated, you guys are the best.

 

[triumphrider-1]

Was there any residue (gummy or dried) on the inside of the drums wen you replaced the shoes? If an axle seal or wheel cylinder is leaking it will affect the stopping ability of the shoe, as well as reduce life expectancy of the pad.

 

[JimRummy]

No, not really. I mean I know that if the cylinder was leaking that odds are the shoes will be coated, but nothing I could tell. I wasn't positive it was the cylinder instead of the axle, but nothing has leaked since so I'm not sure.

 

[JimRummy]

UPDATE
So about 2 hours ago I was on the freeway going about 80, and I completely let off the loud peddle. As it was slowing down on its own the parking brake light up for a half a seconds, and it felt like the brakes engaged for a half a second. Like the brake were quickly and lightly tapped once. The ABS light didn't do anything, and the brakes didn't seem to be affected by this. That's the first time that has ever happened, although I have seen the e brake and ABS lights come on while braking down a very steep hill, but once the truck was shut off there was no issue or lights.
???

 

[triumphrider-1]

How old is the brake fluid?

 

[JimRummy]

Had it flushed and replaced maybe 3 months ago.

 

[triumphrider-1]

Do you have any pictures of when it was torn apart?

 

[adsm08]

You should always do wheel cylinders when doing rear shoes. They cost $10 a piece and are usually 100,000 miles old when the shoes wear out. Cheap insurance for a safety item.

 

[Milton]

^^^Very good advice. Also look at any flexible hoses.

 

[shane96ranger]

All of this, and no mention of the front brakes - where most of the stopping power is at. What kind of condition are they in? Brake fade is caused by heat. Any chance you've got a caliper dragging? Also, are the drums adjusted properly?

EDIT: One more thing. You don't have some bargain pads on the front do you (i.e. Valucraft)? We put some of those on a Crown Vic that we bought for the sole purpose of rallying - and let me tell you, those pads were awful.

 

[JimRummy]

I actually work at autozone so I know not to go near the cheapo's, but truthfully I get thermoquiets because I've never been impressed by anything duralast makes. I was even told by a duralast vendor that the rotors are manufactured so cheap that their life expectancy is only 2 sets of pads.
Anyway the front seems like all is well, except one piston has a few chips busted off. The back to my knowledge is good too. The shoes might suck due to the possible cylinder leak also, but I adjusted them through the little slot in the back, and then did the reverse stopping adjustment right after installing. I'm probably just going to replace the master cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders and see how she does after that..

 

[Insanejughead]

Get new e-brake cables.

They rust up pretty solid and keep tension on the rear shoes. The problem isn't severe, at first, but after time, it eats away a groove in your drums and causes unnecessary heat build up, which reduces the effectiveness of your shoes and fluid. The heat also doesn't help your axle seals, either.