Radius arm bushing on TTB quick question

[Eddo Rogue]

Sounds like I needed to put some heat and breaker bar on it...was going at it too gentle perhaps...

As the old saying goes...Dont force it, get a bigger hammer!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

As long as you don’t have a gas leak, I wouldn’t worry too much about grinding unless you are putting sparks directly on a fuel line. Sanding doesn’t put out as hot of sparks as grinding and doesn’t heat up the metal as fast, which is why I use coarse flap wheels fairly often. I’ve also used a thin cut to slice the head off of the rivet down close to the frame then use a flap disk to clean up so it can be punched out.

Pulling the axle shafts and heating the threaded bung might be how you have to get those bolts out. If muscles or an impact aren’t enough. I’ve had to use a 3’ cheater pipe before, but if me yanking on the cheater pipe won’t do it, heat is your friend.

I ended up grinding off the rivets....it wasn't too bad. Replaced em w/ 7/16" hardware. The axle shaft popped right out, hopefully thats normal. Splines looked good, didnt notice a seal leak trail or anything...

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah if they've never been apart before, what you were up against is Fords Loctite (threadlocker). Heat is what's needed to release it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yeah if they've never been apart before, what you were up against is Fords Loctite (threadlocker). Heat is what's needed to release it.

Yeah, that yellow stuff that is worse than red and listed by Loctite as “heat required”. Ridiculous stuff. Because when they say heat, they mean oxy/Propane at minimum. Your little propane or Mapp gas “plumbers” torch is going to take a million years to warm those puppies up if you live in a state that has rust problems. Maybe any state, I dunno, lol