Radius arm bushing on TTB quick question

[Eddo Rogue]

Hey all,

I am dreading doing the radius arm bushings , and was wondering if instead of taking everything apart at the knuckle end, I could just grind out the rivets on the bushing bracket and pull it off the frame to swap the bushing, and then just replace the rivets with bolts after?

Also if you would like to suggest rubber vs polyurethane I am still torn on this decision as well. Leaning towards poly...

Cheers-Eddo

 

[Shran]

You can definitely do that. I guess I don't think that's the easy way, to me it's easier to pull the spring, loosen both pinch bolts and the radius arm should pull out of the crossmember fairly easily. Being in CA you shouldn't have much rust to deal with, that's the main thing on those pinch bolts. Do one side at a time.

I hate poly bushings. Usually I use the rubber ones from O'Reilly, most parts stores just sell poly.

 

[Josh B]

I've never done it on a 4WD, but once on a 73 E300 one ton van. Once I got done it didn't seem like a big deal.
I had some good heavy rubber too from somewhere, might have been roofing rubber maybe. Installed it between most the rub points and over and under the springs

 

[franklin2]

Someone had drilled the rivets out and put bolts in on a f150 I had long ago. When I went to replace the bushings again, I appreciated that.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You can definitely do that. I guess I don't think that's the easy way, to me it's easier to pull the spring, loosen both pinch bolts and the radius arm should pull out of the crossmember fairly easily. Being in CA you shouldn't have much rust to deal with, that's the main thing on those pinch bolts. Do one side at a time.

I hate poly bushings. Usually I use the rubber ones from O'Reilly, most parts stores just sell poly.

Meh idk that seems like more work than me, I would rather grind metal than turn big bolts. I grind metal anyways at work, plenty of tool options.

Despite being in CA, things still rust...Its more of a dry rust.

Why do you hate poly bushings? Besides the squeakier and rougher ride...

 

[4x4junkie]

My experience with poly bushings overall has been good, although in the very beginning I did have red color ones that came as part of a suspension lift, which they only lasted about 4 years before starting to crumble. The black poly ones I replaced them with have lasted far longer (I guess the black pigment somehow protects the urethane better from UV rays). I also have extended arms, I don't know if that might play a role in their longevity (them not being flexed up & down quite as far).

I also think it's more work to grind out a bunch of rivets than to remove the coil nut and loosen the radius arm bolts (at least provided the threaded bung inside the beam hasn't broke loose, I did have to deal with that once). But if you're used to grinding steel, then go for it. Either way, it can be done (and if you ever do a suspension lift or something in the future, then removal of the rivets will already be out of the way).

 

[franklin2]

I use poly bushings also, but there is a reason the factory doesn't use them. They are noisy. Nothing objectionable, but you will get a little more road noise, and a little more drivetrain noise through the harder bushings. Everything is a trade-off.

 

[Shran]

Meh idk that seems like more work than me, I would rather grind metal than turn big bolts. I grind metal anyways at work, plenty of tool options.

Despite being in CA, things still rust...Its more of a dry rust.

Why do you hate poly bushings? Besides the squeakier and rougher ride...

I don't feel that they last as long as rubber and they are noisy.

 

[Josh B]

I can't recall how but somehow raised the truck by the coil spring and released everything holding it, then lowered the frame onto a jack stand and then released the coil. Going back was just a reversal. I was actually surprised at how well it went

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Bump. Revive.

Finally got around to getting some bushings....and wheel bearings (see other recent thread)...and brake lines (they were binding), and a RABS valve (had no rear brakes)....I got spindle axle bearings too, it jiggled a lot w/ the hub off.

Went w/ the Moog rubber bushing kit for the radius arms...looks good so far.

I was gonna grind off the crossmember rivets and replace w/ bolts and go at it that way, but figure now since I've got all this apart, might as well go at it from the pivot arm. Plus I noticed the fuel filter is right next where I will be throwing sparks grinding it. I have an air chisel, but not a fan of using it. I use a grinder every day at work as if its my leatherman.

My question is: What's under the bolts at the radius arm? is it loose nuts or are they stuck to the pivot arm?

If they need to be held in place, do I need to remove the axle to get a wrench on them?

I figure with the hub out, I can finagle the axle around enough to slip a wrench in there to hold the nut if need be.

Its in pblaster soak stage right now....

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Update...axle is out...but I cant get anything to loosen, despite looking suspicious buying so much penetrant lube at the parts store.....gonna go back to my plan of grinding off rivets at the crossmember...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

As long as you don’t have a gas leak, I wouldn’t worry too much about grinding unless you are putting sparks directly on a fuel line. Sanding doesn’t put out as hot of sparks as grinding and doesn’t heat up the metal as fast, which is why I use coarse flap wheels fairly often. I’ve also used a thin cut to slice the head off of the rivet down close to the frame then use a flap disk to clean up so it can be punched out.

Pulling the axle shafts and heating the threaded bung might be how you have to get those bolts out. If muscles or an impact aren’t enough. I’ve had to use a 3’ cheater pipe before, but if me yanking on the cheater pipe won’t do it, heat is your friend.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The radius arm bolts go into threads in the axle housing so no backer nuts, they get corroded in place pretty good, I had to use a propane torch and PB blaster and a 25" breaker bar to get mine apart to do the extended radius arms earlier this year...

 

[franklin2]

Another Ford thing. They knew those bushings would not last forever. But they would last long enough to where you will buy another truck and send that one to the junkyard I suppose.

Just helped a guy in our shop change out the air filter on a Ford fusion. He was having a terrible time, took off the driver's side front tire, took the wheel liner out, and was struggling to get the bolts out and to get it out of there. We finally got it out, only to find out Ford considers this a "lifetime" filter and to never change it. You can't even get to the element to change it out. Needless to say after all that trouble, and all the dirt we knocked out of the housing by banging it on the floor, we bought another filter from the Ford dealer. It was $400.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Another Ford thing. They knew those bushings would not last forever. But they would last long enough to where you will buy another truck and send that one to the junkyard I suppose.

Just helped a guy in our shop change out the air filter on a Ford fusion. He was having a terrible time, took off the driver's side front tire, took the wheel liner out, and was struggling to get the bolts out and to get it out of there. We finally got it out, only to find out Ford considers this a "lifetime" filter and to never change it. You can't even get to the element to change it out. Needless to say after all that trouble, and all the dirt we knocked out of the housing by banging it on the floor, we bought another filter from the Ford dealer. It was $400.

I have a fusion...not sure if the airbox its different or even complete, but is easy to access. Its a 2011, 3.0 v6. Dealing w low brake pedal issue at the moment on it....