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Radiator Fan working nonstop. help, please!


VinQua

New Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2020
Messages
4
City
St Charles IL
Vehicle Year
1995
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
Hi guys! The fan is always on so the hose close to the radiator does not get hot, but the ones close to the cabin do (the heater works) the gauge is always close to the letter "C". It seems like when I accelerate the fan also runs faster. I have already changed the sensor and the thermostat and I am about to buy a new clutch, but is it the clutch? Could it be something else? It is a Ford Ranger 1995 XLT 4Cyl automatic. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
 
Welcome to TRS :)

Yes, the radiator fan is always spinning when engine is running

When engine is COLD and BEFORE you start it, try to spin the fan, should move but not spin
Start engine and count to 20, shut off engine, spin fan again, should spin now, not much but more than before
If it still doesn't spin replace fan clutch

The Temp gauge on the dash uses a SENDER not a sensor, the temp "sensor" is only used by the computer
So there are TWO temp devices on the engine
ECT Sensor has 2 wires
In 1995 SENDER has 1 wire
Did you change the 1 wire sender?
Sender is on drivers side at the back end of engine, seen here: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/opdebremert/2009-09-10_124053_oil.gif

You should be using a 195degF thermostat


Just a heads up for the 2.3l Lima engines
They are built like a tank, very heavy engines lots of metal and also don't generate alot of extra heat
So in colder climates many use cardboard in front of the radiator in the winter months to keep engine temp and heater temp up
Start with covering 1/2 radiator
 
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Hi Ron! Thank you an I hope your year started well! I thought the fan would spin just when the engine was getting hot and I've read that it was not supposed to spin faster as you press the gas pedal (which happens in my ranger).

I did what you told me to do and actually counted until 25 just to make sure and it felt about the same before and after, maybe a slight difference. But for the record when I had the engine running for almost an hr, after I turned it off, I was able to spin it way more (maybe a full 360 or so)

I've changed the ECT sensor

I've changed the thermostat and it was 195

I put a cardboard covering about 80% of the radiator and let the engine run for about 30 min just to see if it would warm up more and it felt about the same.

The thinner hoses in the back of the engine fill a lot hotter than the thicker one connected to the radiator. Not sure if that is expected. Just trying to give you information.

I already have the clutch. Do you think I should test anything else before I change it?

I apologize for how long I took to get back to you and I strongly appreciate your help.
 
That is pretty normal, my '97 4 cylinder doesn't get hot and I have the radiator mostly covered as well. As long as you have heat in the cab and such I wouldn't worry too much about it, sounds fairly normal. What Ron was getting at is cold before the engine is started the fan clutch is fairly stiff and difficult to turn, after the engine is ran briefly but still cold that will release the clutch some. Since it is a viscous (oil or wax) clutch it always spins and with the naked eye is difficult to tell what it is doing. Up to a point the fan will turn faster as the engine turns faster but it should almost always be turning slower than the engine

From my experience looking at my OBD II scanner while driving the temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move much but the engine is getting to around 180F. As Ron said, the engine is likely over cooled and the heater core gets coolant first (the small hoses you mention) before the radiator (big top hose to the radiator) so that is what you are seeing and is likely normal.
 
This is when I re-consider converting to an electric fan.
 
Yeah, it's on my list... way down low but it's on there :)
 
That is pretty normal, my '97 4 cylinder doesn't get hot and I have the radiator mostly covered as well. As long as you have heat in the cab and such I wouldn't worry too much about it, sounds fairly normal. What Ron was getting at is cold before the engine is started the fan clutch is fairly stiff and difficult to turn, after the engine is ran briefly but still cold that will release the clutch some. Since it is a viscous (oil or wax) clutch it always spins and with the naked eye is difficult to tell what it is doing. Up to a point the fan will turn faster as the engine turns faster but it should almost always be turning slower than the engine

From my experience looking at my OBD II scanner while driving the temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move much but the engine is getting to around 180F. As Ron said, the engine is likely over cooled and the heater core gets coolant first (the small hoses you mention) before the radiator (big top hose to the radiator) so that is what you are seeing and is likely normal.

Hi, Scott, thank you. So my gauge is marking right at the letter C line pretty much all the time. When I press the gas a little more the temperature drops down. Is that normal? And the hose connected to the radiator is just getting warm. It is not getting really hot. I can buy one of those electronic temperature reader to get the exact temperature in each part of the engine if you think it is going to help. But does that all sound normal? Thanks again!
 
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Yes it does, like mentioned before these engines don't make much heat, mine does similar but the temp gauge goes about 1/3 up from cold normally, it's never got halfway even cruising 80mph in 95F+ weather for 800 miles... If the engine isn't running hot the thermostat isn't going to open letting hot water through the upper radiator hose but it is likely always running through the heater core (smaller hoses) so that is acting like a small radiator. Without driving there isn't much load on the engine and there won't be much heat, if there isn't much heat the little speed increase of the fan pulls more air through and also the water pump is moving faster moving more coolant so it cools down.

I'm bad about run on sentences, hopefully that makes some sense.
 
Yes it does, like mentioned before these engines don't make much heat, mine does similar but the temp gauge goes about 1/3 up from cold normally, it's never got halfway even cruising 80mph in 95F+ weather for 800 miles... If the engine isn't running hot the thermostat isn't going to open letting hot water through the upper radiator hose but it is likely always running through the heater core (smaller hoses) so that is acting like a small radiator. Without driving there isn't much load on the engine and there won't be much heat, if there isn't much heat the little speed increase of the fan pulls more air through and also the water pump is moving faster moving more coolant so it cools down.

I'm bad about run on sentences, hopefully that makes some sense.
Your explanation was absolutely fine to me. I highly appreciate your effort...lol. If the gauge was going 1/3 above C I would not be as concerned. I will probably work on it by wed because it wont be so cold by then (31F). I might try to drive it without the propeller just to see if the temperature will rise (will not leave it like that). as an experiment, 1 time experiment only, would that be doable? I have the clutch with me for a little while...if anything I will also change it by wed/thu. Thank you!
 
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